So Ive fitted some steel lowering blocks I got from Adam (340GLT).

While I was at it I put some landrover shocks on, just to see. I still have the front end of the car to sort out so It wont be going anywhere for a while yet. It is super stiff at the back now, as expected .

here's some pics If I can offer any advice to anyone who's thinking of doing this then it would be to do he passenger side first, as this was a good bit easier, because it lacks the infamous anti-tramp bar and the steel brake lines do not obstruct the drive shaft.

I found on the drivers side that to get the drive shaft out of the way I had to take the bolt out that secured the anti tramp bar as this also held a brake line bracket in place. Removing the bolt allowed me to move the brake line over to create a bigger gap for the drive shaft to be lifted out of the way.

I have a question about the tramp bar. With the 40mm blocks I have in place the tramp bar dosent line up with the bracket its meant to attach to.

How do I go about shortening it?
Could I instead make a couple of brackets which would allow it to be re attached to the original point, only a little higher up?

And another question.

I still don't have the anti tramp bar connected, but as I haven't driven the car for about a month, it wouldn't matter if any of it was connected.

Ive noticed that the rear wheels are closer to the front of their wheel arches, could the stiff shocks be causing this, or are they all like that and Ive just not noticed?

Looking forward to sorting the front suspension out, as soon as I get my springs and things!

Support the car in the air again and slacken the bolts until you can get the anti tramp bar bolt in loose. Then retighten and align the axle, then re tighten the anti tramp bar when its on the ground.
Adam

Thanks, I'll give that a go. Is there a chance that doing so will make the axle sit at an angle, with one wheel closer to the front of the wheel arch than the other?

Thye should both sit the same, you may find they look funny in the air until its dropped back down, depends on how tight the anti tramp bar is.
Adam

Its millimeters out, thanks for your reassurance

which landy shocks?90s?

90s, there old Monroe ones on mine.

hey how does it drive with those shocks on it? does it handle alot better or is it just too bumpy??
as i have been toying with the idea but wanted to know how it drove first.
cheers
kev

I wish I could tell you, I made a start on the front end but Ive been waiting for over a month for parts from dai, so the car has sat outside my work looking abandoned.
I cant wait to find out find out for my self, when I do I'll let you know, my theory is that 13s and 80% side wall tyres will make up for the stiffness of the shocks a bit.

Good post. Thanks. Got all the bits you speak of, just finding the time to deck my 3-door. If you can give any more useful info (like how long it took to do the back end lowering) that would be helpful.

It took me comfortably 6-8 hours or so on a Sunday.

The most annoying bit was the drive shaft bolts. These are allen bolts, which on some cars are full of dirt, which needs cleaned out. After that I undone them. I found access to the bolts difficult so the sequence was:

Hand brake on
loosen drive shaft bolt
Hand brake off
spin hub a half turn
Hand brake on
loosen opposite drive shaft bolt
Hand brake off
spin hub


Maybe someone knows of an easier way to do this

This was continued untill all the drive shaft bolts were loose and able to be removed, allowing this end of the drive shaft to be lifted out of the way (on the passenger side anyway), leaving easy access to the 4 bolts which secure the axel, leaf spring and bottom shock bracket.

You can now undo and remove the 4 nuts and bolts. I was lucky, very little rust and no seized bolts! If they are siezed atleast you dont need to re use them.

With the 4 nuts and bolts removed you can use a jack to lift up the axel.This should open up a gap between the the leaf spring and the axel, allowing you to position the lowering block in place.

After this is done the new longer nuts and bolts can be used to re attach the axel, leaf spring and bottom shock bracket (now with the addition of a lowering block).

Now a you need to re attach the drive shaft. I used a torque wrench so I didnt over tighten the bolts, I used the same sequence for the removal. I cant remember the torque setting but I have it should be in a Volvo 300 manual.

The drivers side is slightly trickier because of the obstructing brake line (see photo).

After fitting the blocks I had a go at the Shocks.

This is simply a nut at the top and bottom which needs to be undone to allow you to compress (by hand) the old shock and pull it out. The landrover ones go straight in, but compressing them can be tricky because they are so stiff.

Im no expert, I don't mind being corrected, but doing it this way has not broken anything and Ive been driving the car loads.
Its improved things no end but to me feels a little undersprung?

mrsoundcraft wrote: Maybe someone knows of an easier way to do this

instead of pulling the handbrake hold the wheel with your free hand, allways worked perfect for me

volvodspec wrote:

mrsoundcraft wrote: Maybe someone knows of an easier way to do this

instead of pulling the handbrake hold the wheel with your free hand, allways worked perfect for me

i started to do mine this way, but im guessing the bolt son mine had never seen light of day since 89, so were not exactly budging, im gonan get mine on the ramps to do it when i get round to looking again i think!

You don't need to take out the halfshafts to undo those bolts... Can't remember if I used an offset ring though.

And use high tensile bolts...