I'v just starting building a cheap and cheerful drift car, and i am used to using cars with adjustable suspension to allow camber adjustments.

Just curious if anyone has altered (bent) the rear beam to introduce a small amount of negative camber.

Any information or feedback welcome. Cheers guys.

They have negative as standard. Just wondering why you want more?
Adam

I didn't realise they had camber as standard i was thinking that around 2 to 2.5 degrees camber could improve the cars drifting ability and would be fairly easy to do. But now i see in the haynes manual the car has -2 degrees from the factory,
thanks for the reply.

It starts at -2 and then gets bigger, aswell as developing uneven toe-in which is very undesirable. Don't think anyone has made a solution as yet, but I do intend to straighten an axle back to factory specs, some info in http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 6&start=15.

Unlike many of the younger lads on here I have had the pleasure of driving brand new GLTs (borrowed from the dealers while parents car was in for service/crash repair..oops), it was pretty impressive. It is a testament to the 360s that they handle so well with such bent rear axles.

Although I have to say my first 345 took the full brunt of my younger driving and the axle became so bent it was dangerous in the wet, when you hit a puddle straight-on at say 50 on a good dual carriageway, the car nearly spun. I'm not sure if the later cars axles are stronger or if I just calmed down.

Actually just measured mine, seems to be -1deg both sides.

Does anyone know how toe-in is measured in mm? (+/-3mm according to Haynes)

If they bend that much over time i might consider trying to get the setting back to standard and then add some strenghthening bars to stop it deflecting under the strain of drifting. Thanks for all the help i really apprieciate it.

it doesn't suffer from drifting itself, tyreskidding on the rear = less force from the tarmac = easyer sideway load on the wheel

hitting something like a curbstone in a drift is the real killer, if you overdo that you can even get positive camber on a rear wheel

the beam itself is quite easy to reinforce actually

hey guys just read this and wondered how to measure the camber on my 360?

old thread lol
and to answer you Q get the car on a four wheel tracking device
should tell you everything well at least the one at college does and you can print it out

thanks, I don't suppose there is a ruff home style test?

There is a cheapish solution, I used a camber gauge, £30 from frosts

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... er%20Gauge

I guess you could make something up with a suitable spirit level and angle gauge.

well ill give it a shot with my squer level, and see how it goes but ill get it done proply when i take the car in to get new tyres,

ill let you know how it goes

Is there a way to reduce the negative camber on rear wheels?

The camber gets bigger when the springs rebound, right?

the camber shouldnt move about if the axles were strong enough
with it being one long bar basically

Yes the camber is fixed by the axle. I've been looking at mine with a view to fixing toe-in recently. I notice the axle is oval (longer vertically) more so in the middle. I guess this is a as a result of the stamp/forming to press out the curve for the diff clearance. This means the axle is weaker in the toe-in resisting axis, and particularly in the middle. Once I have this straightened I intend to cut a horizontal slot right through the axle (hopefully big angle grinder will do the job), in the middle 1/3 or so, and put a 2mm plate slightly wider than axle then seam weld. The edges of the slot will probably need bevelled (or V shaped) and progressively welded to fill the gap. Think I need more than my 100A mig though.

This should make the axle stronger mostly in the toe-in direction without increasing the size much, it can also be trimmed down if diff clearance is close. It should also add strength in the camber direction aswell.