Heater fuse location

Post by **fidgad** » 11 Dec 2005 06:22 pm

it appears thet tha resister is divided so depending on the relay point the fan is reduced to slow and slower. With the resister by-passed the fan blows full strength.
I think the bi-metalic switch is a thermal cut out to prevent resister burn out and since that rarely occurs they corode. They are riveted onta a piece of board and replacing the bi-metalic contac unit may be possible but difficult. Also what value and setting is required! The one out of the wife's steam iron? dangerous idea

I did consider bridging (shorting it out) to make it redundant but I need to think that through in case I set fire to the car!

Post by **Chris_C** » 11 Dec 2005 06:25 pm

Yeah, just an idea... don't like the option of fire + car....

I have the advantage of about 2 years on most age wise, so I'm quite happy trying to get a solution sorted, then at least I won't be without a heater for long when it happens

Post by **fidgad** » 31 Dec 2005 01:28 pm

I now have my heater fan working on all speeds! Very strange having quiet heat 'cos, as previously stated, I had hardwired the fan through to the cigar socket which gave full blast only. So now I can didconnect it.
Used part secured from donor car in Derbyshire! Thanks Steve.
Happy warm bunny now.

Post by **foggyjames** » 31 Dec 2005 01:55 pm

Would that be Mr Volvo Vince by any chance? Top bloke

Mine packed up the other day, so until I could get rolling enough for the airflow to pick up naturally, there was some Ace Ventura style head out of the window action going on! It's going again now, but I definitely need to look into this with some urgency once it gets a little warmer.

Wierd, as I'm sure it was around Christmas when it gave up for a couple of days last year!

cheers

James

Post by **SteveP** » 31 Dec 2005 01:57 pm

I'm going to be pulling these from any car that allows easy access in scrappers now, I don't have a spare anymore and the one I just fitted looks WORSE than the one that went!