Stereo

[morgan105]

Ok, it is right in what some people are saying (not contradicting myself), if you have the radio rigged up to only run when ignition is switched on (only when dash lights are displayed, first click of ignition allows other ancillaries to work such as radio but does not put charge in coil until 2nd click and dash lights display) then YES it can harm your coil over time as it gets charged ready to fire up the car, BUT as mentioned, this is being installed as a live feed and bypasses the ignition circuit, so NO it won't harm the coil, ARE WE ALL CLEAR ON THIS NOW?

Right, if rigging it up as a direct feed from the battery, via inline fuse, then yes this will work fine, but why don't you pick up the live wires from the clock and the cigarette lighter and rig a wire to each with an inline fuse? This not only simplifies things considerably as it is all there behind the dash, but also takes out the long routing of wires through the bulkhead to the battery and is less prone to interference problems that can arise from other electrical components such as the coil, leads etc.

Anyway the choice is yours on how you set up the wireing.

All the Best with it.

[special]

BUT as mentioned, this is being installed as a live feed and bypasses the ignition circuit

sorry but were does it say that ?

[morgan105]

[quote="special"][quote="morgan105"] BUT as mentioned, this is being installed as a live feed and bypasses the ignition circuit[/quote]

sorry but were does it say that ? [/quote]

Sorry, I do appologise to all as I read the wrong post along the way. The post of rigging it in as a direct feed was from Redline, not Rickm who originally posted the query. My sincerest appologies (I'm having a bad day!! )

[special]

that makes to of us then sorry bout earlyer posts

[morgan105]

Why, what post are you sorry for?

[Chris_C]

LOL, nice one guys, the one thing I think has been done is to give the guy enough info to answer his question, no matter how its wired

Special, thanks for clearing that up, I didn't know that about the coil. Anyone using an autoleads adapter will find that the radio comes on on second click (dash lights on), unless the radio allows it to be run from the memory wire as I have seen some do (with an hour timer or similar).

[Peace]

i have read a few post
but i go along with chris...

get a headunit that has a remote out. connect remote out to amp. connect amp directly to battery ! use fuse ! connect speakers to amp.
muehehe ignition on, ignition off... doenst matter...

unless you got old standard radio... then nevermind about what i said before
and get some ice! volvo 300 makes an excellent boom car for me

[Lonewolf]

I got my sound system finished 2 days ago i've run it for about 10 mins and been able to start the car no worries, but i wouldnt recommend running the sound system without some form of battery charging occuring, unless you got a deep cycle battery which is will tolerate being almost completely drained.

- JVC Headunit with MP3 player
- 2 way pioneers up front 4" (90watt)
- 4 way JVC up back 6"x9" (350watt)
- Alpine R-type 12" in custom box (1000watt)
- Alpine 700watt monoblock (powering the sub)

The headunit looks nice in the car (not too bright at night either like some) and the face is removable, the one i got doesnt read wma's or work with a cd stacker, but with 160 songs per cd i probly wont need it.

The 6x9 jvc give some real good quality sound at the expense of some thump, but before i got the r type it would still thump if u turned the bass up.

The R-type... well i dont have the bass on full anymore with the amp gain on, i think i got the balance between the boom and the rest of the music fairly good, and the best part is the box that its in, theres still plenty of boot space. I've got the dimensions for the box if any of you are would like it, it fits flush with the back of the rear seats and your still able to get the spare out.

I must say after sitting back and listening to it after having listened to one of my workmates sound setup, which was was all sony xplod stuff, it sounds SOO much better and if it wasnt for the fact he had 2 15" subs in his boot, probably louder too. Also listened to a jbl setup with 2 15" fusion powerplants, which was ok, way louder than the sony xpod even, but distorted somethin chronic when volume was introduced.

It was quite funny setting up the amp, following the instructions it says to basically turn the amp outputs right down, then turn the headunit volume up until it starts to distort... well i normally have the volume at 18-20, 22 is LOUD... anyway i had the volume up over 40 (50 is max)before i gave up on getting the setup to distort, i actually used the remote cause it got a bit loud in the car. Anyway i putting it back at 18 i did the next step, wind up the bass till it distorts, then tone it down 2 notches, it did eventually distort, but it was about 75% before it started... maybe it was my song choice not being dynamic enough (jayz-linken park).

All in all i'm happy with the setup, i'd like to think so seeming its worth $1700, but i got away for under half that ($800), so if u want a good setup, i recommend befriending someone who sells car audio and getting a similar setup when the cheap specials come on.

[foggyjames]

Crikey ladies...handbags away! Saying something along the lines of "I've done ICE installs before so I must be right" then being wrong is a good way to make yourself look like a chump! All these things are a constant learning process, so it's best to approach them with caution, especially where the facts are a little blurry. I've also done several ICE installs (and as it happens when I'm not being a student I earn a pittance as a live audio and lighting technician/engineer), but I'm constantly learning new things about the subject area. Anyway...

Firstly, leaving an automotive coil active without load for a long period of time will damage it - full stop. Whether or not it will *in this application* is another matter. As far as I'm aware (mine certainly doesn't), 300s don't have a 'stage one' key position - it's off, ignition/run, starter. Some modern cars have relays which disconnect it after a set time, so 'burning out your coil' has slipped from the forefront of the public mind - I was forever warning guys who'd have sound-offs at school about this. I have no idea whether or not the 300s have this feature.

As for flattening the battery...let's be scientific about this. A given battery has an Ah (amp hour) rating. A 100Ah battery in good condition can draw 100A for an hour before it goes flat. Let's say the average fairly modest (say '300w' - read: 150wrms - read: probably about 80w at 50% duty-cycle and full bandwidth...cough cough) 'sub and amp' setup will draw about 25A peak draw, you can run it for four hours *at peak draw* before it flattens the 100Ah battery. Also bear in mind that audio is a dynamic signal, and it has very little power in anything other than the lowest octaves - you'll only pull serious current with bass-heavy music. On top of that your *average* current draw will often not make it out of single figures, even with a '30A' system. (Note: I've not checked what a reasonable Ah rating is - that's just a figure off the top of my head.)

My quick answer to your question...
No, you needn't worry about flattening your battery in less than 30 mins unless you have a really powerful setup - tell me you've got a 1200W competition quality power amp and I'll think again.

Special - I may have misread you, but *normally* the bulk of the current for a HU is drawn from the 'constant' feed, with the ignition feed being used more or less simply as a 'trigger' - like the remote line to a power amp. Of course your HU may be different - but that is the 'standard'.

Anyway, lets calm down the ranting, all take a deep breath before replying, and not doubt each others experience, as we can all be wrong - and must be ready to accept when we are! Even Hugh... Arf arf arf...

cheers

James