Hi all,
Besides the obvious is there anything that should be considered when looking to buy a 340/360, i.e. anything these cars are renound for hard to reach rust spots etc? O and i know about the indicator stalks and trip failing.
Also anything to consider/look out for if I look at a 16v converted one(as i hopefully plan to)?
In short any buying advice greatfully recieved.
Thanks in advance
John
buying advice.
Re: buying advice.
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ng#p150133
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ng#p148525
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ng#p140137
welcome, those might help with what to look out for
As far as 16v converted, The prop might not last long if it's not been aligned perfectly (i think that's why they go)
This thread might interest you:
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ew+project
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ng#p148525
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ng#p140137
welcome, those might help with what to look out for
As far as 16v converted, The prop might not last long if it's not been aligned perfectly (i think that's why they go)
This thread might interest you:
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... ew+project
'88 360 +T LSD - sold
'87 760 TDI (D24TIC) - sold
'04 V40 D sport (F9Q, decat, Remapped, launch control)
'89 740 SE (b230ft, 12psi, V-cam, headwork, 'remapped', banded steels)
'86 340 DL 1.4
'87 760 TDI (D24TIC) - sold
'04 V40 D sport (F9Q, decat, Remapped, launch control)
'89 740 SE (b230ft, 12psi, V-cam, headwork, 'remapped', banded steels)
'86 340 DL 1.4
Re: buying advice.
I wouldn't worry about anything mechanical, unless its completely shot. The mechanics of these cars hold up extremely well. Unfortunately the body does not, and any rust in the bodywork whatsoever, and its then bodyshop time which is at best expensive and at worst terminal for the car, because there's always more than you expect once you get into it.
Jack points, and sills in general, front foot wells and floor pan, and rear jacking points are favourites, as well as internal wheel arches and in the cross member above where the fuel tank sits. Front and rear valance isn't too bad because at least they're easy to get to to weld in new pieces without huge amounts of disassembly.
The trip meter and the indicator stalks are all easily repairable so I wouldn't worry at all about those, but some mechanical components are getting more difficult to come across, like decent shocks and shock mountings, water pumps for 360s and other things. Do a forum search for volvo parts no longer available and you'll see.
But the bodywork in particular has hit many of us in the wallets if you want to get it done properly.
Hope that helps.
Jack points, and sills in general, front foot wells and floor pan, and rear jacking points are favourites, as well as internal wheel arches and in the cross member above where the fuel tank sits. Front and rear valance isn't too bad because at least they're easy to get to to weld in new pieces without huge amounts of disassembly.
The trip meter and the indicator stalks are all easily repairable so I wouldn't worry at all about those, but some mechanical components are getting more difficult to come across, like decent shocks and shock mountings, water pumps for 360s and other things. Do a forum search for volvo parts no longer available and you'll see.
But the bodywork in particular has hit many of us in the wallets if you want to get it done properly.
Hope that helps.