ICE
ICE
Hey guys,
I love my music, and I like decent speakers; not mindblowing boot shaking subs but just decent, full sound. My 360 GLE has decent speakers but the left one is blown so it's just the right side one at the moment, through a tape deck adapter in the headunit. I'd wanna just replace both in one swoop and get a small sub; does anyone know how easy it would be to do so, how much it would cost, but more importantly, whether it would be possible to keep the original headunit or get one that isn't tacky/blingy/looks like its from 2050? Hard to find decent looking headunits it seems.
I love my music, and I like decent speakers; not mindblowing boot shaking subs but just decent, full sound. My 360 GLE has decent speakers but the left one is blown so it's just the right side one at the moment, through a tape deck adapter in the headunit. I'd wanna just replace both in one swoop and get a small sub; does anyone know how easy it would be to do so, how much it would cost, but more importantly, whether it would be possible to keep the original headunit or get one that isn't tacky/blingy/looks like its from 2050? Hard to find decent looking headunits it seems.
Re: ICE
Its all relatively simple. you can keep the tape player. go to your nearest electronics store and get a "high to low level RCA" adaptor. that connects to your speaker wires usually rear and gives you to sound posts amps usually need. doing speakers is a half hour job at max. they have a big and little plug on each. big is positive, small is negative.
amp and sub will be harder part as to make it look tidy you have to pull the side of your car apart to hide wires. the amp can go under a front seat or in boot somewhere. you'll have to run
a positive
RCA's
remote wire to turn amp on
an earth wire connected to car body somewhere say a bolt
all of that wire comes in an amplifier wiring pack.
to do everything put aside a day. you'll have time left but its better than running out of time.
amp and sub will be harder part as to make it look tidy you have to pull the side of your car apart to hide wires. the amp can go under a front seat or in boot somewhere. you'll have to run
a positive
RCA's
remote wire to turn amp on
an earth wire connected to car body somewhere say a bolt
all of that wire comes in an amplifier wiring pack.
to do everything put aside a day. you'll have time left but its better than running out of time.
Own:
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
Re: ICE
speakers are literally 8 screws per side and 2 wires. The front door ones are 10 cm
A sub's pretty simple too. if your keeping the standard head unit, u need one of those adaptors as Logan360 said. Hiding the wires is easy, the little panels on the sills that hold the carpet down can be unscrewed and the wires shoved down there. I got an 'active sub' which is a sub and amp all in one so it just sits in the boot.
I was always told to run the power and remote wire down one side of the car and the RCA's down the other to stop interference.
A good place for an earth in the boot is the rear lights as the wires can be hidden under the boot carpet and you dont need to remove much of the trim.
Biggest problem is that you have the sub in the boot all the time and it gets in the way.
A sub's pretty simple too. if your keeping the standard head unit, u need one of those adaptors as Logan360 said. Hiding the wires is easy, the little panels on the sills that hold the carpet down can be unscrewed and the wires shoved down there. I got an 'active sub' which is a sub and amp all in one so it just sits in the boot.
I was always told to run the power and remote wire down one side of the car and the RCA's down the other to stop interference.
A good place for an earth in the boot is the rear lights as the wires can be hidden under the boot carpet and you dont need to remove much of the trim.
Biggest problem is that you have the sub in the boot all the time and it gets in the way.
'88 360 +T LSD - sold
'87 760 TDI (D24TIC) - sold
'04 V40 D sport (F9Q, decat, Remapped, launch control)
'89 740 SE (b230ft, 12psi, V-cam, headwork, 'remapped', banded steels)
'86 340 DL 1.4
'87 760 TDI (D24TIC) - sold
'04 V40 D sport (F9Q, decat, Remapped, launch control)
'89 740 SE (b230ft, 12psi, V-cam, headwork, 'remapped', banded steels)
'86 340 DL 1.4
Re: ICE
I'm also a bit of a Hifi nut, and like my cars to sound well but not stupid. I use a basic tape+radio 4x40w Alpine unit without additional power amps, and an alpine CD multichanger that plays MP3s. That provide all the level I need without distortion. I don't think it looks tacky, but yes alot of units on sale now have stupid pointless flashy lights.
For speakers I've used Alpine 6x9s in the parcel shelf of my saloon, the boot make a great bass reflex box. But I don't think it works so well on the hatch. In the front I have Caliber CSS4 (40w), which fit in the door speaker compartment, although you have to remove the rear rubber cover and front plastic rim to fit the Volvo grill.
I have 2 spare Caliber fronts if you are interested.
For speakers I've used Alpine 6x9s in the parcel shelf of my saloon, the boot make a great bass reflex box. But I don't think it works so well on the hatch. In the front I have Caliber CSS4 (40w), which fit in the door speaker compartment, although you have to remove the rear rubber cover and front plastic rim to fit the Volvo grill.
I have 2 spare Caliber fronts if you are interested.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: ICE
When my 360 was my daily it was ice central. front to back was a fold out dvd head unit, ps2 in the glovebox, soundstream 4 inch's in the front foot wells, front doors, c pillars and a 1800watt soundstream amp powering an 1800 watt soundstream sub with a soundstream capacitor. had it all tuned so movies were just like the movies. but yes i had practically no boot.
if you don't really want to go that far a nice upgrade would be a little 8 inch sub. good little punch, not much space used and more than adequate for most people. and if you can find some c pillar mounts its worth adding the two more speakers.
if you don't really want to go that far a nice upgrade would be a little 8 inch sub. good little punch, not much space used and more than adequate for most people. and if you can find some c pillar mounts its worth adding the two more speakers.
Own:
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
Re: ICE
I really don't like the high to low level adapters, I find them very noisy. The current setup I have in mine is a set of 6.5" components in the doors, though they would be smaller if I did it again as you can't run manual windows and have them fit.
There is a small 2x40 amp under the drivers seat (work out how a box 10"x6"x2" can do 40W amplification then work out how a small postage stamp sized transistor in the head unit can do the same job) that also drivers a 10" sub, which is in a custom box I made to fit the angle of the rear seat and next to the ski flap in the rear seats. Correct volume for the sub means it comes into the boot to only about 10" depth at the bottom and 4" at the top, way before the fold in the parcel shelf. Don't think I have a photo of that.
Cost was around £70 for that, but a fair chunk of time making the sub box, speaker mounts and amp mount.
I used to mount amps in the boot cavities in my previous 300s, either way. That car had a box built as a parcel shelf each channel having a set of 3 way components of 10", 3" and 1", but realistically it was pointing vertically so was never going to sound stunning. It also had 6x9's in the front doors, but again... it was a compromise and didn't sound anything like as nice as my current one.
EDIT: Just so those who know me can have a laugh, yes... I used to have a bit of ricer in me. You can just see the 6x9s in the doors in that picture
There is a small 2x40 amp under the drivers seat (work out how a box 10"x6"x2" can do 40W amplification then work out how a small postage stamp sized transistor in the head unit can do the same job) that also drivers a 10" sub, which is in a custom box I made to fit the angle of the rear seat and next to the ski flap in the rear seats. Correct volume for the sub means it comes into the boot to only about 10" depth at the bottom and 4" at the top, way before the fold in the parcel shelf. Don't think I have a photo of that.
Cost was around £70 for that, but a fair chunk of time making the sub box, speaker mounts and amp mount.
I used to mount amps in the boot cavities in my previous 300s, either way. That car had a box built as a parcel shelf each channel having a set of 3 way components of 10", 3" and 1", but realistically it was pointing vertically so was never going to sound stunning. It also had 6x9's in the front doors, but again... it was a compromise and didn't sound anything like as nice as my current one.
EDIT: Just so those who know me can have a laugh, yes... I used to have a bit of ricer in me. You can just see the 6x9s in the doors in that picture
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Re: ICE
I ran something similar to Chris's setup. The downside is there's not much depth to play with in the doors and the 10cm speakers really are too small imo.
I ran a set of Infinity Kappa 13cm components in the front doors where the window winders go (where the blanking plate is for manual windows), hid the crossovers in the foot wells and tweeters by the small air vents on the dash. Mounted a Maystar 4x50w amp under the passenger seat, mounted on a shelf that fitted between the floor trays and a 10" sub in the boot. Sounded rather nice but doing it again I'd mount the tweeters slightly lower (car component speakers always seem to sound too harsh at the high end?!). Infact, I have the majority of this still and should probably sell it if you're interested!
Oh and I'd ignore headunit and amp crazy power ratings and look at the 'real' values. I was running a Blaupunkt 4x45w headunit powering these components prior to amping them externally using the Maystar and the latter sounded infinitely better.
I ran a set of Infinity Kappa 13cm components in the front doors where the window winders go (where the blanking plate is for manual windows), hid the crossovers in the foot wells and tweeters by the small air vents on the dash. Mounted a Maystar 4x50w amp under the passenger seat, mounted on a shelf that fitted between the floor trays and a 10" sub in the boot. Sounded rather nice but doing it again I'd mount the tweeters slightly lower (car component speakers always seem to sound too harsh at the high end?!). Infact, I have the majority of this still and should probably sell it if you're interested!
Oh and I'd ignore headunit and amp crazy power ratings and look at the 'real' values. I was running a Blaupunkt 4x45w headunit powering these components prior to amping them externally using the Maystar and the latter sounded infinitely better.
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
Re: ICE
Hi mate.
Why not just go the cheap option. I have two speakers at the rear
quarter panel and two up front. Volvo used 4" speakers.You can pick up good speakers
in a scrap yard. Renault clio had 4" ones. The sound is fantastic and all done on a shoe string
Cheers Mark.
Why not just go the cheap option. I have two speakers at the rear
quarter panel and two up front. Volvo used 4" speakers.You can pick up good speakers
in a scrap yard. Renault clio had 4" ones. The sound is fantastic and all done on a shoe string
Cheers Mark.
Re: ICE
Rear c pillar speakers are always a good option. the above installs may have sounded good too, but that's too much cutting etc i like my cars looking original. hence why i stuck with 4 inch speakers. Also if a H2L level adaptor gsm. your thing you can buy amplifiers with high level input. wire your rear speaker wires straight to your amp. most commonly used in 2 channel amps.
Own:
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5