Hi,

On the 340 1.4 vario car i have the Renix unit involved in the ignition process.
My car is irregular 'popping' from the exhaust endpipe, and according to me that irrigularity are missing ignitions, coming from the Renix.
(i changed all 4 plugs (0.6 mm), all 4 distro-to-plug cables, the Renix to distro cable, the distributor cap and finger for brandnew ones from my local car parts dealer (not residing in China) just shortly. This did not solve the 'popping' problem though).
So i would like to investigate if the Renix is okay.
Is there a usefull method to do this? And when 'yes', please disclose how to (or point to a source informing about this).

Thank you,

The renix is very reliable and I am not sure you can check it other than looking for a regular spark. It could also be worth cleaning the flywheel sensor and testing the idle solenoid on the carburettor (just pull off the wire and it should click every time you reconnect it with the ignition on). You can get new coils for the renix on eBay. Hope some of this helps. Bests, bog.

Update:
I just removed the Renix from the car.
When I look at it's back, there is a part of the backplate which is poured in with a kind of rubbery/elastic mass (pale yellow in colour).
I guess, below that mass are electronic components and/or maybe a PCB (electronic board).
In the mass, there are cracks (possibly due to the age of the Renix (~ 30 years now). These cracks seem to go deeper in the mass.
Is there a possibility, these cracks let penetrate water of moisture to the embedded components, and make the car's engine running 'on three pots' (instead of four), when I start the car in the morning (when cold)?
In these instances I do experience bad running/idling of the engine, which disappears when warmed up....

When the cracks have a role in this, what can I do?
Removing the rubbery mass might be dangerous (for the electronic parts embedded), I was thinking of 'baking' the Renix (without the coil) in an oven at low temp to remove moisture, and after that covering the surface with an extra layer of silicone mass (e.g.), to seal again.
Another method could be to heat the cracks with a burner-flame, but I do not think/expect the mass will melt and the cracks will close up (by flowing of the mass to a continuous surface).

Can any of the tech-guys give me some advise on this?

Thank you.

The running 'on three pots' (instead of four), when you start the car in the morning is not due to the Renix but to the distributor, rotor, spark plugs and spark plug cables that are dirty and, especially in the morning, moist.
If it was the Renix you couldn't start the car, clean the parts and your problems should be gone.

I am not glad to write this, but I changed the parts you mention here about 2 months ago for brandnew ones from my local parts supplier (does supply to dealers and workshops too) and the car has not stopped with the running problem i mentioned: it was a bit less intense as before, but not gone...
So there must be another factor contributing.

I can hardly believe, the producer of the Renix made this fill-up with isolating stuff to prevent influences 'of the outer world' on the concealed parts, and now while this 'isolation' gets tears and rips, that deterioration would not influence anything..

Mystery!

I did not want to say the Renix has gone, but the Renix might be impaired by moisture creeping into the tears in the isolation stuff and influencing the way the Renix works (produces hight tension), TILL the moisture has gone due to rising temperatures in the engine compartment/the Renix or both.

I guess you could test your theory about the renix by making sure it is dry and filling in the cracks with fresh sealant. Then try it on the car and see if it is better at cold starts. Can you get a spare one? They are pretty interchangeable.

Hello.
First of all the renix is very very reliable I would very much doubt that is the cause, small cracking in the resin is normal it happens when drying.
The flywheel sensor would not cause a misfire.

If you have popping etc it is more likely to be a vacuum leak, and being a cvt there is a lot of vacuum parts.

Firstly check the carb is it set up correctly, has it worked loose on the manifold causing an air leak.
Secondly you'll need to test the CVT system, there is a guide somewhere which I am sure someone can point you to it, this guide tests the vacuum and electrical sides of the CVT.

Thirdly is the restrictor still present inside the pipe from the carb?

Ben