Rust treatment and repairs

Post by **Duvel78** » 01 Apr 2008 06:37 pm

Hello guys,

I just got my GLT back after 3 weeks by a nice local Volvo dealer where they still like the 300 series (very very rare!!

)

I asked a FULL Dinitrol treatment and of course repairs where rust COULD be / could appair / and was

The bill was expensive but the result is nice.

The left front wing has been changed because it wasn't perfect, the red colors match good...

It's the first step before a whole restoration of the car!

Post by **SteveP** » 01 Apr 2008 07:20 pm

Nice work Aymat, I spy a Mk1 in the background too?

Post by **trabitom99** » 01 Apr 2008 08:17 pm

Very nice! It almost seems a shame to refit the front spoiler after all that work. They don't half trap the rainwater!

Tom

Post by **classicswede** » 01 Apr 2008 09:36 pm

The work looks quite good. They have done a nice job

Post by **Chris_C** » 01 Apr 2008 09:40 pm

Wow, that must have set you back a fortune dude, well done on getting it done, that GLT always looks amazing.

Post by **Jason B** » 01 Apr 2008 09:43 pm

yeah, fantastic job! (well ahead of me on sunday attacking wishbones with a flap wheel and hammerite

)

Post by **petefarrell360** » 02 Apr 2008 12:57 am

Spot on mate! It's worth doing, and a full treatment of Dinitrol can never hurt! Prevention beats cure and chasing rust. So if you've got a nice 300, FFS treat it first and prevent the rust!

I see the usual rust trap on the 360 near the fuel tank in the chassis rails. I must look out the pic that I took that demonstrates perfectly why this happens. I cut the floor of a scrapper out and peeled it all back to reveal inside the chassis rail. I'm undecided as yet whether drilling a drainage hole and then painting the edges to prevent that rusting is the way forward, or which bits to try and fill up with Dinitrol in the chassis rails and where from in order to prevent or slow down the problem, as one bit was a sealed in section from memory.

Looks like they've done a decent job. It's hard to find a place that takes any interest in restoring a car that hasn't reached classic status. They all seem to think they need bodging to get through another MOT, not repairing properly! My Uncle is a top welder and is learning his way around the 300's! He's done the chassis rail sections on one of my 360's, and just recently he's done the inner floor and sills, and replaced the outer sills and fabricated part of the rear arch sections on my Grandmothers 340. It's structurally spot on now, just needs a little bit of tidying up.

Good work mate, well worth the investment!

Pete

Pete

Post by MJ » 02 Apr 2008 01:24 am

That looks nicely done. Good job

EDIT: Top marks from spotting the Mk1 Steve, it's well hidden.

Post by **340GLT** » 02 Apr 2008 02:14 am

I spy a colour coded snow cap.

Adam

Post by **Chris_C** » 02 Apr 2008 01:14 pm

340GLT wrote:I spy a colour coded snow cap.
Adam

Is there any other kind?

Post by **SteveP** » 02 Apr 2008 01:17 pm

Chris_C wrote:Is there any other kind?

Yeah, how they were supposed to be

Not so sure about the front spoiler trapping water, certainly cars without them rust just as much on the front valance

Post by **trabitom99** » 02 Apr 2008 01:47 pm

Well, maybe not exactly water, but certainly mud, grime, grit etc. leading to a bit of extra sogginess around the valance area

They also do a good job of hiding the beginnings of rot from the owner too ...

Tom

Post by **simo** » 03 Apr 2008 04:33 am

All good stuff!

Hoping to do the same for mine where necessary very soon.

I've had the chassis box sections waxoyled through out, the garage idiots have dented them by using them as jacking points!

so only the arches and usual drainage areas will probably need this treatment.

Saw "Dinitrol" mentioned is that any better than "Waxoyl"?

Post by **petefarrell360** » 03 Apr 2008 07:12 pm

Both are certainly better than nothing, however Dinitrol is thinner and more oil like, so it penetrates into gaps, seams and into the heart of rust spots to stop it, where as Waxoyl is thicker and tends to coat things not allowing moisture and air in.

Dinitrol isn't cheap, but I'd recommend it. I bought a huge can of Waxoyl, purely out of convenience. One of the places Dinitrol is available to the public is through Frosts online.

Pete

Post by **simo** » 04 Apr 2008 09:17 pm

Certainly explains the availability of Dinitrol being more costly than Waxoyl then.

Must admit while using waxoyl i did find it sits on the suface rather than penetrate at room temp. But slight application of heat seems to do the trick though, which would mean Dinitrol would have been the ideal consistency i was actually after in the first place.

I'll try Dinitrol next when i have the chance. Thanks for the link Pete.

Simon