A PAINT PROBLEM!

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Justin
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A PAINT PROBLEM!

Post by Justin » 07 Aug 2008 06:27 pm

I recently spent hours treating a few small patches of rust on my motor with Hammerite Kurust and then painted over it. I wasn't able to get another touch up paint pen from my local Volvo dealer as its such an old colour. I managed to get some from a guy on Ebay, the colour match is brilliant but it's water based paint and there are already spots of rust coming through!! Am I correct in thinking older paints were cellulose based? there is a local paint company who can mix me the colour in an aerosol and apparently its cellulose based.

Basically, will cellulose paint be more effective against rust than the water based stuff? Maybe I should use black hammerite as an undercoat?

Jus

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340GLT
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Post by 340GLT » 07 Aug 2008 07:13 pm

TBH no paint will totally prevent rust coming through. I would advise taking it back to metal again, treating with kurust then using an acid etch primer then a cellulose aerosol.
Adam
F559 LFE - 340R 2.0 16v
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MJ
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Post by MJ » 07 Aug 2008 09:34 pm

Did the dealer say the touch up paint was not available at all? Obviously some colours are more popular, but I got a new pot of touch up a year or so ago.

I've treated a few spots of rust by grinding back to bare metal, then a couple layers of hammerite followed by a couple layers of touch up paint. Not too pretty as it sticks out and isn't flush, but most importantly no rust yet...

Adams right, a proper acid etch primer or something would probably be the most professional way to go, but I don't know much about that sort of stuff
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trabitom99
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Post by trabitom99 » 08 Aug 2008 08:33 am

MJ wrote:Did the dealer say the touch up paint was not available at all? Obviously some colours are more popular, but I got a new pot of touch up a year or so ago.
The green metallic for my GLT wasn't available either at Volvo or at my local motor factors. I then got a rattle can from Halfords "sure we can mix it for you, no problem" and the paint match was just awful - far too much silver mixed in. For small touch up jobs in hidden areas it was OK, but nothing more.

I had a wing resprayed last year - the body shop ordered the paint from a professional paint shop - that matches quite well, but it's still not absolutely perfect - could be due to weathering as well I suppose ...

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988

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Fuse
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Post by Fuse » 08 Aug 2008 10:11 am

Proper vehicle painters/paint shops should be able to mix you an accurate color. The red color of my GLT is not available from Volvo nor anywhere else anymore so I went to a local shop which sells automotive colors and equipments. He had multiple preview slips (different shades etc...) for that Volvo color code and I compared them with my car's color and that way I got the best match possible.
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Post by Ronnie » 08 Aug 2008 10:29 am

Yeah, there's a reason why bodywork shops are so expensive - it's a black art...
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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 08 Aug 2008 11:56 am

Fuse wrote:Proper vehicle painters/paint shops should be able to mix you an accurate color. The red color of my GLT is not available from Volvo nor anywhere else anymore so I went to a local shop which sells automotive colors and equipments. He had multiple preview slips (different shades etc...) for that Volvo color code and I compared them with my car's color and that way I got the best match possible.
But if you happen to own car with Colour code 192, that is not an option, there is no such shade in those slips :(

But one shop similar to Halfords did mix paint themselves, it is pretty good match, original paint has just faded a bit so colour is not perfect match, however I believe with small polish and paint renowator I should be able to make it match perfectly. Currently it is able to see difference if you look close.

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Post by Justin » 08 Aug 2008 02:48 pm

Blast, I was gonna put black hammerite on first aswell, may have to start again.

What on earth is Acid Etch Primer and where does one get such a thing?

Jus

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 08 Aug 2008 03:43 pm

Justin wrote:Blast, I was gonna put black hammerite on first aswell, may have to start again.

What on earth is Acid Etch Primer and where does one get such a thing?

Jus
Try some marine shops, those have usually best stuff, ice breaker paint is perhaps one of most durable paints in the world and it can't be bad in anticorrosion department either ;)

But, if you would like to rust stay away, only method is to clean everything away, use rust converter of some sort, sand it again, put zink primer, at least 2 layers, then surface paint, more than one layer. Also make sure there is low humidity when you paint and sand it as high humidity can lead to bad results alone.

There is no rocket science or shortcuts, just hard work, when you try to get paint that lasts :(
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Fuse
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Post by Fuse » 08 Aug 2008 04:00 pm

Ice breaker paint has quite damn good for durability and it's not that expensive either.

I think best for rust prevention (and also most expensive) are two component acid primers and epoxy primers. Though when doing smaller repairs and not painting the whole car it's not usually moneywise to use those and also two component paints take more time.. :P
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 08 Aug 2008 04:07 pm

The above comments cover most bases! Hellfrauds paint is utter pants, both for colour match, finish and anything else I've found! I made sure all the rust was completely removed, took it right back to clean bare metal, but their primer is rubbish too, and it was purely to stop things getting worse until I did it properly. However it hasn't lasted a year and looks shocking as the rust is coming through it again.

ZInc primer seems to ring a bell in my mind as being the super stuff to use to prevent rust. Hammerite do an anti rust primer, which I think contains zinc, otherwise I think it's a Davids product to look out for. Kurust is the best stuff to use though for stopping rust when you intend to paint over it or repair it, it does seep into the gaps and get deep into the rust rather than sitting on the top and let is continue to rust from behind. It does tend to seal it over too, stopping more moisture and air getting in. Go for a really good primer and you should be halfway there then.

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 08 Aug 2008 04:29 pm

With Zink primer one has to remember that it only works with metal. Someone could perhaps give full scientific explanation, but I can only say that Zink works in rust prevention like a fuse (not you Fuse ;) ), Zink worns out instead of metal being corroded, but it works only when zink contacts metal, they form somekind of chemical pair, if there is something else than metal it won't work.
That is reason why I sand rust converter away, reason why I use it is that it is almost impossible to get all rust out and that rust converter works well with these tiny holes.
Of course, it is not magic stuff, if there is too much of rust it won't stop it, that is why it is crucial to get almost everything out before using rust converter.

This in angle grinder is best stuff for rust removal, after sand blasting of course ;)
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I don't know what you call it over there? In here it is Peittaus-laikka, but most call it with bit racists terms.
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Post by Chris_C » 09 Aug 2008 11:14 am

No idea what we call them mate, aggressive fluffy angle grinder thing ;) They are awesome though.
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'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

Justin
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Re: A PAINT PROBLEM!

Post by Justin » 23 May 2013 03:00 pm

I need some more touch up paint for my 340 and the guy I usually get it from on ebay has stopped trading! I have found someone else but they have written the following under their paint: This Aerosol paint is a 400ML aerosol Mixed in a Basecoat Formula and requires a Lacquer. Why would it require a lacquer?

Also, I had some mixed up at Halfords yesterday based on my cars colour code and it was far too light in colour; if anything it should have looked darker based on the fact that my cars original colour would have faded by now... A complete waste of a tenner!!!
1988 340 1.4 DL

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Chris_C
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Re: A PAINT PROBLEM!

Post by Chris_C » 23 May 2013 05:05 pm

I've never seen a good one mixed up by Halfords. I suggest looking in your yellow pages for a local paint place.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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