BONNET PROP/VENT THINGY?
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BONNET PROP/VENT THINGY?
i have seen 360 s with the bonnet afew inchs open by the window screen like a vent
how do i do this?
how do i do this?
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The bonnets take off if you try that.... quite amusing watching the bonnet flying about 2" above where it should be sat.filthyjohn wrote:You'd be better off just pulling the bonnet release and driving it with the front sticking up.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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- *** V3M DONOR ***
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If you want to do that all you have to do is raise the brackets on the bulkhead. If this is for adialy rember starting is likely to beacome a problem due to the damp.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
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Marvellous. Like I needed any more trouble starting the 360 in the damp. You only have to show it a cloud and thats it - kaputIf you want to do that all you have to do is raise the brackets on the bulkhead. If this is for adialy rember starting is likely to beacome a problem due to the damp.
MKIII 360GLT Aus-spec B200EA 239K
Mods: custom paint fade
New Cylinder head.
Auxilary cooling fan.
195/60/14 Pyonghung Ditchfinder tyres
Vario Vents FTW
G8 4 DRFTN etc....
Mods: custom paint fade
New Cylinder head.
Auxilary cooling fan.
195/60/14 Pyonghung Ditchfinder tyres
Vario Vents FTW
G8 4 DRFTN etc....
What is wrong with your cars?
I haven't had trouble starting at all even once it spend night out without bonnet and it poured down during night, of course when you don't except. It started normally at morning when I managed to move it to garage, was too lazy at evening, also temperature was around +5C back then.
Good leads, dizzy cap and rotor, over year old petrol in tank, just turning key, waiting pump fill float chamber and bit few times loud pedal, bit of choke and start, then it runs
My spark plugs are those some warn not to use, Bosch with quad tip, insanely good plugs, NGK plugs die right when they get soaked, I have soaked these with MS quite few times, I have driven hard on track and some long distances, always they fire fuel like new, I believe those are now 3 or 4 years old.
Don't know if that makes differences together with electric fuel pump.
With MS starting is quite amusing, power on, pump primes 2 seconds, turn key and it already runs, fires up instantly when you turn key to start, everytime it makes big grin on your face.
So I believe something must be a miss if there is any starting trouble and specially if damp weather effects it.
I haven't had trouble starting at all even once it spend night out without bonnet and it poured down during night, of course when you don't except. It started normally at morning when I managed to move it to garage, was too lazy at evening, also temperature was around +5C back then.
Good leads, dizzy cap and rotor, over year old petrol in tank, just turning key, waiting pump fill float chamber and bit few times loud pedal, bit of choke and start, then it runs
My spark plugs are those some warn not to use, Bosch with quad tip, insanely good plugs, NGK plugs die right when they get soaked, I have soaked these with MS quite few times, I have driven hard on track and some long distances, always they fire fuel like new, I believe those are now 3 or 4 years old.
Don't know if that makes differences together with electric fuel pump.
With MS starting is quite amusing, power on, pump primes 2 seconds, turn key and it already runs, fires up instantly when you turn key to start, everytime it makes big grin on your face.
So I believe something must be a miss if there is any starting trouble and specially if damp weather effects it.
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I have personly never had any problems with damp but it can be an issue. I reguarly pressure wash teh engine bay and it will start fine after. You cant get wetter than that!
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
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in an on topic sort of direction.... don't raise your bonnet near the windscreen... you are likely to make the car more prone to overheating by doing this. I've not actually tried any maths based on a 300 series but its a pretty complicated problem and alledgedly you create a stalled flow by the windscreen which theoretically would lower the velocity of air passing the radiator... I posted a pic on here a while ago which "proves"(i.e. I don't know the source) what I mean, after a lengthy discussion with a drifter who actually has a degree and relevant experience of motorsport aerodynamics at a fairly high level.
All pretty interesting stuff though, if a bit above my knowledge
All pretty interesting stuff though, if a bit above my knowledge
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power
In evo bonnet thingy is not for looks, on that location there is kind of vacuum which helps to draw warmed air from radiator(s) and out from engine bay.
If you compare these two:
You can see that position is bit different, in Subaru that is for taking air into engine bay and it's intercooler, where in Evo has opening in hood bit closer to nose of car and it's function is to extract air.
Now here is bit newer Evo:
See how it has now deeper front edge of 'hole' that is at front of bonnet, that helps to create more vacuum, also notice that front edge of that 'hole' is smoothly rising from bonnet, this also helps creating more vacuum, it is so strong that snow from bonnet will disappear first from that place from what I have heard.
Also in that pic there are added air intake vent at bonnet, it is not much more behind that air extract vent, but enough so there should not be any vacuum.
As air flows it can be very small difference in placement where extractor opening won't work and that is quite challenging to get right without spending some time in thinking it.
Temperature meter with sensor at end of long wire will tell final truth if something helps or not, but with little thinking I would agree that rear of bonnet is in area where is more air than in surrounding air pressure is so it won't be optimal solution. Best would be custom bonnet with similar vent as in Evo has, only placement of it is bit mystery, surely it helps even if one puts it few centimetres away from optimal position, but of course computer models would help deciding correct position.
If you compare these two:
You can see that position is bit different, in Subaru that is for taking air into engine bay and it's intercooler, where in Evo has opening in hood bit closer to nose of car and it's function is to extract air.
Now here is bit newer Evo:
See how it has now deeper front edge of 'hole' that is at front of bonnet, that helps to create more vacuum, also notice that front edge of that 'hole' is smoothly rising from bonnet, this also helps creating more vacuum, it is so strong that snow from bonnet will disappear first from that place from what I have heard.
Also in that pic there are added air intake vent at bonnet, it is not much more behind that air extract vent, but enough so there should not be any vacuum.
As air flows it can be very small difference in placement where extractor opening won't work and that is quite challenging to get right without spending some time in thinking it.
Temperature meter with sensor at end of long wire will tell final truth if something helps or not, but with little thinking I would agree that rear of bonnet is in area where is more air than in surrounding air pressure is so it won't be optimal solution. Best would be custom bonnet with similar vent as in Evo has, only placement of it is bit mystery, surely it helps even if one puts it few centimetres away from optimal position, but of course computer models would help deciding correct position.
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whiskeyonesix - sounds like you need new ignition consumables.
I've never really got the whole lifting the bonnet thing, but hey...if it makes you happy
cheers
James
I've never really got the whole lifting the bonnet thing, but hey...if it makes you happy
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
People have been using pinto's for years, that doesn't make them goodkaos wrote:it does something, as its been in use for years by drag racers and such for years
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast