B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
NO parts requests here, please use our V3M BUY & SELL corner
-
blue72
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 24 Sep 2007 10:38 pm
- Location: Oxfordshire
Post
by blue72 » 05 Oct 2010 09:37 pm
Apoligies if this has been covered before but I can't seem to find it.
I have a screw on dizzy cap on my 1.7 and am wondering how on earth to remove it to clean inside and check the condition. A "normal" length or even a stubby screwdriver is too long as the bulkhead is in the way. Do I need a special 90 degree sort of affair to do this job or am I missing something obvious? Never had it to bits before but the last time it went to a garage for a service I got stung so am tackling the job myself this time. (Mods, feel free to move this if it's in the wrong place)
Any help greatfully recieved, thank you in advance, Shaun.
-
Hell Driver
- Posts: 1416
- Joined: 18 Aug 2009 09:58 pm
- Location: Doncaster UK
Post
by Hell Driver » 05 Oct 2010 10:49 pm
You have to take the heater box off to get to the screws. It's not as bad a job as its looks. (Don't try to take the heater box apart with the spring clips as I did when I first tried it
) There are some mounting nuts for it.
I had to do it cos the engine was running really badly. I'd changed everything else and it hadn't improved much. I cleaned the crank sensor (which was really badly oiled up) and changed the rotor and dist. cap which was also really bad and it was like new again
I can't describe easily where the nut(s) are for the heater box but it's not a hard job to find them. Watch the heater matrix with the end of the screwdriver handle. I think there are 3 screws on the dist. cap, you can probably only see one from above.
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario 
-
Chris_C
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9600
- Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
- Location: South Coast, UK
Post
by Chris_C » 06 Oct 2010 10:20 am
The mounting bits you want to remove are the 2 obvious screws at the top (self tapper style) and the trickier one is a 10mm nut hidden inside. Put your arm in the inlet to the heater box and you'll feel it though!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
-
blue72
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 24 Sep 2007 10:38 pm
- Location: Oxfordshire
Post
by blue72 » 20 Oct 2010 05:59 pm
Okay guys thanks very much.
-
CBA
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 24 Mar 2010 02:14 am
Post
by CBA » 11 Feb 2011 02:42 am
If its flathead screws like mine use a 1p coin held with pliers. or use a stubby flathead sideways on like a spanner.
