Timing belt change help?

[Speedy88]

I messed up, but I've not broken anything yet. Some bearings were screaming at me from under the timing belt cover so I decided it would be right to replace said bearings before they seized and the belt slipped off destroying my valves.

Taking off the cover I released the belt tensioner - suddenly things began to go wrong. The belt slipped suddenly as the tension was released and I realised already that the two camshaft's alignment points were at least 1 tooth out of alignment. To confirm this I rotated the crankshaft with a spanner.

This is my 1st question - the valves made contact while I did this and I'm worried that this would damage the valves (under hand pressure). I've no idea how soft they are so have I damaged them?

On from here I began to get annoyed so I just whipped off the belt to find the broken bearings (turns out its the oil pump, at least I found the problem).

Now this is question 2 - I realise now that the crankshaft is in no way possibly in no1 cylinder position. The two camshafts are in awkward positions. How do I get the crankshaft to no1 position?

On the plus side the timing belt still has markings on it so I should be ok reusing it. So I'm in a right pickle here, how do I get out?

[OppositeLock]

I can tell ya know, that you wouldn't have done any damage to your vales if it was only with hand pressure, They're not that delicate.

As for finding top dead centre on pot number one 1, you can do that buy pulling the plug out stick a pencil in the pot (don't loose it, you'll have fun trying to get it out) and also pull the rotor cap off to see where you are in the stroke. If all else fails I think it should be in your manual.

[340GLT]

Speedy give me a call Thursday. I will guide you through it. Although oil pump are you sure? there is only bearing shells in there not roller bearings like in the idler and tensioner.
Adam

[Speedy88]

It's rough turning although thinking about it I might just be turning the oil pump and feeling that. Can't think what else it would be tbh, tensioner is a little bit tight but we replaced that last time. I don't think it would be anything else, the other idler is fine.

[Speedy88]

Belt back on and car is running. Still can't locate the sound though! I'm pretty confident it's not something to do with the timing belt though as the sound appears to be coming from somewhere else on the passenger side. Looks like I'll just have to wait until it breaks some more...

[340GLT]

If it's coming from the pass side poss alternator. Take belt of that and run it for a couple if seconds. If noise is gone it's either alternator or water pump.
Adam

[magnumpi]

Looks like i was beaten to it by Adam but i was going to suggest the alternator, as my old one used to sound horrible until the alt died, guess what? Now the new one is making a slight squeal everynow and then!

Have you had this problem Ad? It seems the adjuster is at it's tightest but the belt is still a little slack.

[Speedy88]

Problem is now only persisting when engine is cold, I'm guessing more and more that its the alternator. Out of interest what alternator can I use with this engine? I think I remember its the 440 one but not for the 2.0L?

[Chris_C]

I've just swapped my blowned up one (dont ask.. I havn't sussed it yet) for a 340 one, well, a month or so ago.

The 340 one squeaks more than a squeaky thing in a squeaking convention, I am wondering about belt tension though as I've never had a 1.7 one do this?!

F7R 700 -- 70A (Williams)
F7R 710 -- 75A (Megane)
B172k -- 55A (I think says my memory) with a 5 v belt rather than the 6 of the above.

The one that was on my engine was a 65A... so maybe a 1.8 valver?

[Speedy88]

Is there any problem with having too many amps? I mean to the level of me trying to use say 75A instead. I was thinking of getting a bigger battery anyway to give me peace of mind on long journeys.