My new GLE

B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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d3k4y0
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My new GLE

Post by d3k4y0 » 03 Jul 2006 09:28 am

[quote="petefarrell360: in "The Family..." "]Good stuff Dave, looks good! Enjoying the 2.0 litre goodness?[/quote]

it's ... "different"
As foggy mentioned yesterday, I'm not convinced it's that much faster then the 1.7, but it does seem to make far less of a fuss about it!
The acceleration is very strange though, you get no extra pull with your toe down than you do from about 3/4 worth of pedal throw, I put this down to cold at first, but it didn't clear up, is this the norm, ie. does it just have a lot more low end pull, and far less in the top end?
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Post by jtbo » 03 Jul 2006 09:56 am

2ltr model with stock cam has quite little top end pull, I would say around 4000rpm it starts to feel more like sound is changing but not much pull.

Anything less than A-cam is quite dull to drive, but even with A-cam there is not very huge pull at top end.

I feel that this K-cam is really nice, engine feels more awake, but also my engine management helps in there too.

Before I needed to keep throttle quite much down when accelerating from lights to keep up with traffic, now I rarely use more than 1/4th of throttle, pushing throttle to 1/2 is causing front to rise and it just keeps pulling, very nice to drive, if just gearing would be tad better :P
Also there is now roar instead of humm :lol:

What I have heard, 1,7l is also bit more like this, it has not so dull feeling, maybe it makes more agressive noise to make one feel it pulls harder.
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d3k4y0
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Post by d3k4y0 » 03 Jul 2006 11:11 am

jtbo wrote:maybe it makes more agressive noise to make one feel it pulls harder
I can't remember what mine sounded like without a seive for an exhaust!
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Post by V6 Man » 03 Jul 2006 04:47 pm

I take it your GLE has a B200K?

If so they are cammed for low down pull and you don't gain anything by revving them - it's all over by about 4500rpm.

Now if you fit a K cam and twin Solex's it'll have f'all low down pull and wake up at 4500rpm..........
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Post by petefarrell360 » 03 Jul 2006 04:54 pm

From what everyone says and from what I've seen, the 1.7 isn't slow, as you say the 2.0 litre just makes less fuss about it. In all honesty putting the pedal flat to the floor is next to useless in a 360 in accelerating, it actually has trouble fuelling on the standard fuel injection. As everyone says, the 360 isn't a high revving car, driving home last night, I didn't actually go above 3000 rpm accelerating, and I wasn't hanging around, it equates to more noise than power above 4500 rpm really.
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Post by SteveP » 03 Jul 2006 05:22 pm

Yes... the 2.0s aren't atall that quick, I got pwned by a Vectra on the way back from a 50-100mph run (at the drag strip), strangely it didn't want to go much faster in a hurry! :?
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Post by jtbo » 03 Jul 2006 05:59 pm

If it is indeed a carb version, then fitting hotter cam is no much of use, low end torque is lost and there is not much gain to upper range, that is with stock carb, cam needs proper fueling to give out power.

I think that way how stock 2ltr carb engine behaves it is really good engine to be used with autogearbox, too bad there was no such option.

So it is more like good for road trips, but not so good for sprints and city driving, also that odd gearing is not helping much, short 1st then 3rd far from 2nd it really is usable for keeping speed stable, but not to make fun driving/shifting/revving.

Old Mazda 323 with 1,5l engine was one that I drove and there it was impressive how gear ratios and engine were working together, shifting was quite fun, but rest of car was pure s*it.

To make 360 better it is needed to change fueling and cam, but also would need new gear ratios too.
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Post by foggyjames » 16 Jul 2006 09:52 pm

Mine used to be a lot more torque-happy on hills at lower revs at WOT rather than 3/4, but it wasn't that noticable on the flat. A bit wierd! On the other hand with the current setup WOT seems to make a relatively minor difference at lower RPM (maybe because of poor tuning), but going to WOT makes a noticable difference at say 3500rpm.

The major hold-up on that car is the carb, and if I were looking to make an upgrade to the setup I'd fit a 36or 38mm dual downdraft Weber DGAS or similar - a bigger version of the stock carb.

I'd agree that the acceleration isn't much more impressive than the B172, however as you've pointed out, it's a fair bit more effortless. I'd leave it as-is, once you're happy it's operating correctly.

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Post by jtbo » 19 Jul 2006 12:47 am

James, you need programmable ignition, that will add difference to WOT at lower rpm too, with stock ignition map and all mods in, it is just not giving everything out that it could, I must say that it is remarkable difference in driveability :)

Oh yes, my opinion about carbs, if you get cheap ok, but injection is way to go otherwise :lol: Sorry for all carb lovers, I have something against carbs :oops:
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Post by willowdog » 19 Jul 2006 10:12 am

d3k4y0, I agree.

I find that 3/4 seems to be better than WOT - But only below 2500.

If I give it some stick but keep the foot above 3/4 until I hit around 2500 and then feed it in I notice the difference until I hit about 4400 and then it's just noise no matter what....

The power curve seems pretty similar to the 245 (B23E) I used to have (what a surprise :D ) Good down low but nothing higher up.

And although I drive around on carbs, I have to agree with jtbo. Injection is definatly the way to go - Just not necessarly Jettronic.

But, other than changing cams and doing other full-on mods (Foggy and a few others spring to mind) the engine is not the most powerfull or rev happy thing around. On the upside though, I hardly notice a loss of power towing a trailer..... And I still have more go than the new 1.8ltr Company Corolla - damn FWD cant keep the wheels stuck and then it chokes when you hit 3rd gear :evil:

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Post by jtbo » 19 Jul 2006 01:03 pm

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There was lighter flywheel and that hot/cold flap of airfilter box removed so that it took cold air more freely, but nothing that really makes more power.

numbers can be bit high actually in that one, but curve shape should be accurate, it really does not give torque at higher revs, so it is best just keep between 1000-4500 or get cam replaced with better, which is again almost useless with standard carb as it spoils low end part throttle so easily...
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Post by antiekeradio » 19 Jul 2006 09:23 pm

On the other hand with the current setup WOT seems to make a relatively minor difference at lower RPM (maybe because of poor tuning), but going to WOT makes a noticable difference at say 3500rpm.
at low rev a modest throttle opening is enough to equalize the plenum pressure to outside pressure.

on higher revs there's much more air flow so the modest throttle opening will create more vacuum. opening it further makes difference then.


you've got a vacuum gauge, right? should be pretty obvious if you get the clue :-)

try some time to raise revs (like in accellerating in 3rd gear) while keeping the vacuum at the same spot (halfway red, but not with WOT!!)

you will notice you'll have to move the pedal about linear with the engine speed to keep the needle steady.

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Post by foggyjames » 20 Jul 2006 02:51 am

antiekeradio wrote:at low rev a modest throttle opening is enough to equalize the plenum pressure to outside pressure.

on higher revs there's much more air flow so the modest throttle opening will create more vacuum. opening it further makes difference then.
Exactly. I agree with Jani that I need better ignition timing....and of course getting the tuning right would help.

I love the carbs though...they're simple, effective, and I like the fact that they're a dying breed of device. Anyway, I'm allowed to brag...I'm making more power than the EFI boys with the same spec (or better) otherwise ;) sm56

cheers

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Post by jtbo » 20 Jul 2006 02:31 pm

You know, I get only 5000rpm currently, but _when_ I get that problem solved things can turn to be different ;)

But you got good point in there that carbs are getting rare and those give sure few extra points, specially in future where spotting carb is thing we put to calendar :P

I will probably try to get my carb to work normally too, it is anyway one form of automotive technology that every car enthustiast should be aware of even somehow, so let's see how it goes, could be that I need to swap old cam in to get it running well too, that will make quite huge power drop :lol:
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