Strange engine fluctuations
Strange engine fluctuations
Hi All,
Im having a strange problem with my 1.4 340 dl cvt engine. it only happens when the outside temperature drops or gets wet. its beed fine throughout hte summer but now we have some rain and cold weather it has started playing up again.
The problem is when i first start the engine after notbeing used for a while ie: first thing in the morning or going home from work, the engine over revs it as if the switch to fix the revs has been switched on (but it hasnt) and doesnt have any real power, just makes alot of noise and doesnt really have any poke, then once the engine has warmed up the revs drop back down to normal and the car is fine. due to this strange rev issue im caning fuel.
anyone got any ideas?
thanks
Ed
Im having a strange problem with my 1.4 340 dl cvt engine. it only happens when the outside temperature drops or gets wet. its beed fine throughout hte summer but now we have some rain and cold weather it has started playing up again.
The problem is when i first start the engine after notbeing used for a while ie: first thing in the morning or going home from work, the engine over revs it as if the switch to fix the revs has been switched on (but it hasnt) and doesnt have any real power, just makes alot of noise and doesnt really have any poke, then once the engine has warmed up the revs drop back down to normal and the car is fine. due to this strange rev issue im caning fuel.
anyone got any ideas?
thanks
Ed
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i recon its muck inside the distro cap. try cleaning that out first and see what happens
Siddy-'87 360 Glt lhd convertible
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
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That's the low gear hold switch, which selects a lower gear for coasting down hills etc, not to be used at high speeds. I'd start with the distributor cap and leads as Hugh suggests, mainly because I can't see how the damp can affect it if it's a vacuum or switch, and then the warmth sort it out. Could of course be wrong!
Where abouts are you, as Mac has a CVT tester he has developed. My CVT should be on the road soon for him to check against a supposedly working car, then maybe he might not mind testing yours, worth asking him. I'd try the other routes first.
Pete
Where abouts are you, as Mac has a CVT tester he has developed. My CVT should be on the road soon for him to check against a supposedly working car, then maybe he might not mind testing yours, worth asking him. I'd try the other routes first.
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
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OWWW...... thát problem... new diagnosis ->
its well possible that the 'tacho relay' has a broken soldering inside.
this is a known problem and can be fixed by opening up the tacho relay and resoldering the relay connections on the printed circuit board.
the weight of the relay is only supported by its electrical connections, which causes these to be stressed quite severely. liberal use of solder prevents the problem occuring again.
PS "the switch to fix the revs" is called the "low gear ratio hold switch" (or, translated literally from dutch; hill brake switch)
its well possible that the 'tacho relay' has a broken soldering inside.
this is a known problem and can be fixed by opening up the tacho relay and resoldering the relay connections on the printed circuit board.
the weight of the relay is only supported by its electrical connections, which causes these to be stressed quite severely. liberal use of solder prevents the problem occuring again.
PS "the switch to fix the revs" is called the "low gear ratio hold switch" (or, translated literally from dutch; hill brake switch)
I'm in Soton, and have lived with a 1.4 for several years, so if I can lend a hand etc?
tbh, I'd say you need a new arm/leads/cap, as they are pretty known for being eaten. Spend the extra and get volvo ones from a dealer, they last a good couple of times longer than factors/halfords ones.
tbh, I'd say you need a new arm/leads/cap, as they are pretty known for being eaten. Spend the extra and get volvo ones from a dealer, they last a good couple of times longer than factors/halfords ones.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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- Posts: 697
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air is a better insulant than mirky water.
this means that the spark gets to the combustion chamber when dry, but escapes through somewhere else when wet.
new plugs, new wires, new distributor cap and new rotor, will make sure that the spark gets to the combustion chamber, even when its pooring down like a
this means that the spark gets to the combustion chamber when dry, but escapes through somewhere else when wet.
new plugs, new wires, new distributor cap and new rotor, will make sure that the spark gets to the combustion chamber, even when its pooring down like a

Re: Strange engine fluctuations
The damp will cause havoc with knackered/old ignition systems. For any car with running problems the best bet is definately make sure the plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm and coil are in good working order. If you're not sure when they were last changed then change them!
Also a bit of carb cleaner cant hurt to make sure it's nice and clean too. I used to have to do this every month to the Solex on my old 205 otherwise it would run like a pig!
Also a bit of carb cleaner cant hurt to make sure it's nice and clean too. I used to have to do this every month to the Solex on my old 205 otherwise it would run like a pig!
Carl
Rover SD1 Vitesse (and no Volvos
)
But previously:
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1984 Volvo 340DL
www.carlgibbs.com/gallery
Rover SD1 Vitesse (and no Volvos

But previously:
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1988 Volvo 360GLT
1984 Volvo 340DL
www.carlgibbs.com/gallery
further to my question,
spoken to a Volvo mechanic who suggested that the clutch is slipping. Im still not convinced this is it as why would it only slip in autumn time and not the summer!
Im still convinced that is has something to do with this 'low gear ratio switch' as the revs fix at a certain pitch and the car doesnt seem to be able to go any quicker untill the revs drop, the car acts as if this switch has come on. Does anyone know
A: where does this switch connect to?
B: Is it fused?
C: Can it be disconnected for elimination process
thanks for any help
Ed
spoken to a Volvo mechanic who suggested that the clutch is slipping. Im still not convinced this is it as why would it only slip in autumn time and not the summer!
Im still convinced that is has something to do with this 'low gear ratio switch' as the revs fix at a certain pitch and the car doesnt seem to be able to go any quicker untill the revs drop, the car acts as if this switch has come on. Does anyone know
A: where does this switch connect to?
B: Is it fused?
C: Can it be disconnected for elimination process
thanks for any help
Ed