Volvo 360 2.0L Turbo Intercooler?

[ivan141]

I can get the b200ET reasonably cheap, the power is enough for me so I'm not going to look for b230 instead.
My guess is that pretty much the same things are involved to swap in a b200et..

The engine should fit the 360
ancillaries should fit the b200et since it's basicly the same engine.
Wiring is my greatest concern.
Fuel pump should probably be taken off a turbovolvo as well..or some other turbo car.
Downpipe can be fabricated

Whats the deal with wiring when installing a b230? Are the 740's RWD or FWD? fwd wiring looms are usually a bit more complicated to install in a rwd engine.

[Fuse]

...and to change halfshafts daily?

Drivetrain of 360 will handle about 250hp if it is in good condition. 360 has totally diffrent drivetrain than 340 which has that aluminum cardan-thingie which brokes down with stock engine. We have two 360's with turbos and one halfshaft has changed. And even that was because the bearing of the wheel broke down.. Not because the halfshaft itself would have broken. And what comes to suspension yes it is kinda soft in stock but in GL we have lowering springs for front and back made by Koni and much better anti-roll bars too. Corners much better than 740 and no noticable roll when cornering. Koni doesn't make those anymore though but you can have made custom ones if stock suspension isn't good enough. 360 has also allmost 50-50 weight distribution in stock..

I would go straight to 2.3l turbo if changing engine. -91 or later B230FT is good because it has oil cooling for pistons and bottom end will handle well over 300hp stock when balanced. One of the strongest blocks too. Of course then you would need to do something to drivetrain also..

[5lab]

740s are rear wheel drive

would it not work just to take the turbo itself off the engine and fit that, rather than the entire engine?

[ivan141]

Well...I'm a toyota guy myself, and the engine in my ol coupe was also equipped with a supercharger on some models (4age series engine).
The supercharged versions had lower comp.ratio's and beefier internals than the NA versions. The same goes for the volvo B200 engines I guess. Stock compression on b200E is quite high, 10.5:1 or something...B200ET has 8.5:1 if I'm not mistaken. Much better for safe boost. I just need to know what the biggest issues with engine swaps are for volvo 360's. Mixing and matching parts from the original b200E to the turbo engine is not a big deal, fitting power steering probably wont be to difficult since the bottom end is probably identical.

What changes are necessary on the wiring loom. Is it possible to adapt the stock loom since both engines use the same injection system? I've been looking into the motronic system and it's nice and simple...probably not many differences between the turbo and NA engines.
If the turbo fits without having to fabricate a new manifold I think any b200/b230 should be an easy swap.

I dont want to hear about driveshafts and brakes and the usual things people start about to discourage an engine swap. I'm on the lookout for a big-brake conversion (240 calipers or vauxhall astra stuff..whatever fits the bill) and finding new driveshafts if necessary is a piece of cake in the netherlands. Every scrappy has a few 340/360's so parts are abundant.
I can even have a custom driveshaft fabricated from carbon if need be.

[Fuse]

Later B200E's in 300-series had compression below 10. 9.x:1 or something... I have that in my GLT. And B200E in 300-series has a LE-Jet injection system whereas B200ET in 740 has a Motronic system which also controls ignition. 360's have a Renix iginition system which is not so good because it cannot be adjusted.

[ivan141]

Okay..so it would take the entire wiring loom for the engine taken from a 740.. Probably better of without renix anyway..

[Lonewolf]

My '85 B200E has CR of 9.3:1 and the old B19E had a straight 10:1 CR. You would be able to put a turbo on that. Read a thing somewhere but the basic idea is you start off with basically 0lbs boost, then gently take it up to where it is starting to ping, then take it down 2 notches. Do the same thing after each upgrade, and you should be safe from the MESS (molten engine soup syndrome) that normally happens when someone dials up too much boost. As for ways of running high boost with that compression i'd be inclined to say get the cooling system working really well (flow the coolant through the head 1st rather than last), polishing the cylinder walls and removing any sharp edges, water injection and/or higher octane fuels.

[foggyjames]

By far the simplest thing is to take a *complete* engine, and swap it over in its entirity. By that I mean take the B200E and all its ancillaries right away and start from scratch. I mean everything - the fuel pump being a perfect example of stuff that you're likely to forget, but that is essential.

There is less physical work involved with a '+T' conversion, and the proceedure is well documented for 2/700 series cars, but I'm not aware that it has ever been done to a Renix car, so the outcome is likely to be unpredictable. The safest and easiest thing by far is to haul the block and do it 'properly'.

cheers

James

[ivan141]

Well that is the idea...

My plan was to take out the old engine in it's entirity...leaving only the radiator behind.. Take out wiring loom & ECU in 1 piece.
Mount B200ET, mess around with exhaust, water & intercooler piping.
After the engine is in place and the mechanic stuff is sorted out the wiring loom can be trial fitted. I dont see what problems it would cause that it;'s not a renix engine...as long as all the vitals are changed over it should work. Indeed the fuelpump is an important aspect as well.

[Fuse]

You'll need to take the oilpan also from the original engine. It is diffrent in 700-series.

[foggyjames]

And the different oil-pump-pickup that goes with it. Good point Fuse - I'd forgotten about that!

cheers

James

[ivan141]

I know about the oilpan ...some people mentioned the waterpump as well? Any info on water & oil pumps?

[foggyjames]

Oil pump itself is ok, but the pickup (the jobbie into the sump / oil pan) isn't the same as on a 'normal' B200/B230, so you have to change it. In practice, it may well be easier to change the whole thing.

The water pump is absolutely fine - I think that's a rumour started by someone getting confused between the oil & water pumps.

cheers

James