B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
NO parts requests here, please use our V3M BUY & SELL corner
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Nimminz
- Posts: 1669
- Joined: 11 Jun 2010 10:56 pm
- Location: Durham City, NE England, UK
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Contact:
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by Nimminz » 22 Mar 2014 02:39 pm
Looks like some LH parts in there for sure.
The 2 red wires with large spade connectors in the pic above go to perm +. They sit in a box that connects to up to 6 other smaller spaded red wires feeding things like ign. switch and fusebox.
I don't know much about motronic but have stripped a 940 LH loom and know nearly every wire by heart lol so might be able to help

'88 360 +T LSD - sold
'87 760 TDI (D24TIC) - sold
'04 V40 D sport (F9Q, decat, Remapped, launch control)
'89 740 SE (b230ft, 12psi, V-cam, headwork, 'remapped', banded steels)
'86 340 DL 1.4
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Number 47
- Posts: 199
- Joined: 28 Jul 2013 07:11 pm
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by Number 47 » 22 Mar 2014 07:03 pm
Thanks to 360 beast I have found everything I need to make this engine run. However. I thought I'd take a proper look at it just now. Hmm, I took his word for it that the engine was turning. Mistake, it is seized. Took out the plugs to spray in some penetrant, found brand new plugs. Bad sign. Took off oil filter, strong smell of petrol.
My naievity is on display today. Feeling a bit stupid but this only means I am tearing it down tonight to see if the investment into new ecus and looms is worth it. I can see some rust down 1 of the spark plugs.
Still, couldn't have asked for a better engine to learn on?
Bugger.
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Joris
- Posts: 147
- Joined: 13 Nov 2013 02:43 pm
- Location: The Netherlands, across the pond
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by Joris » 22 Mar 2014 07:33 pm
Well, if it's really bad you can always get another engineblock and swap heads! Maybe one with 13mm rods or even oilsquirters
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360beast
- Posts: 873
- Joined: 27 Dec 2013 08:40 pm
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by 360beast » 22 Mar 2014 08:46 pm
Your welcome
Let me know what's shot and I'll see what I can find for you as I've got a spare B230ET whole engine (minus a few bits of loom) I completely took it apart and had the block sonic cleaned and honed, I was going to keep as spares.
It's definitely worth getting the 13mm rods, I was looking for some yesterday and came across H beam rods from America circa $210.
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Number 47
- Posts: 199
- Joined: 28 Jul 2013 07:11 pm
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by Number 47 » 23 Mar 2014 01:12 am
Took a few hours of lubing, tapping and a good slug of knuckle blood finally shifted it. Opinions on this please. Will a hone sort this or am I looking at a rebore?

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360beast
- Posts: 873
- Joined: 27 Dec 2013 08:40 pm
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by 360beast » 23 Mar 2014 08:51 am
If it's just surface rust then a honing should be fine but if there's rust pitting like the ring where the piston was sat then it would need machining and Oversizing then you would have to fit oversize pistons, I think Skandix sell them but they are pricey.
Last edited by
360beast on 23 Mar 2014 07:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Joris
- Posts: 147
- Joined: 13 Nov 2013 02:43 pm
- Location: The Netherlands, across the pond
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by Joris » 23 Mar 2014 12:04 pm
Cost-wise another engineblock (without cylinderhead) is probably a cheaper option. You can use N/A engines aswell, so a 2.3 from a 240 would be good and saves you the work on swapping intermediate shafts. Not sure if they came with 13mm rods tho
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Number 47
- Posts: 199
- Joined: 28 Jul 2013 07:11 pm
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by Number 47 » 23 Mar 2014 01:28 pm
Sourcing a block in Ireland would be a nightmare and too expensive to ship from overseas, (also, I'm a glutton for punishment. I never replace anything that has any semblance of being repairable) I think I have a shaft sorted so it won't be an issue to swap them out. Going to take the block to work and hand it over to the engine re-manufacturing guy and see what he says.
Is there a haynes that covers this engine, been looking on flea bay but there are a couple of versions and after messaging a few sellers they are not too clued up on which engines are covered.
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360beast
- Posts: 873
- Joined: 27 Dec 2013 08:40 pm
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by 360beast » 26 Mar 2014 05:00 pm
I just read through my post to make sure it was all correct and I thought... I'm sure that I've messed up something to do with the alternator leads and I was wrong.
These two wires go on the back of the alternator, the round one is the 12V+ feed and the spade connector is the charge light on the dash.
I had to double check what these two are for but green wires with the spade connetor is for the starter motor solenoid signal and the red one all I can find is that it is the 12V+ feed which comes off the alternator feed.
I've got my engine bay loom in the living room so let me know if you want to know what any of it is as I can easily take photos etc.
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360beast
- Posts: 873
- Joined: 27 Dec 2013 08:40 pm
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by 360beast » 05 Apr 2014 06:14 pm
Any news on whether or not the block is usable?
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Number 47
- Posts: 199
- Joined: 28 Jul 2013 07:11 pm
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by Number 47 » 05 Apr 2014 10:13 pm
Not yet, been concentrating on getting other things sorted. I have ecus and loom sorted, spare set of sensors minus crank x2. Also the intermediate shaft.
This week I was putting all the front suspension together and back on the car, realised I'd thrown the thrust washers for the bearings and they were NLA so had to source replacements, have rear coilovers and a bolt set coming with them.
Money is getting to be an issue, the coilovers aren't cheap and I used a lot more paint than I bargained for. Didn't expect the cost of ecus etc. Plus got an €80 mobile bill from calling people in the uk for parts.
I will be getting it honed sometime soon, been trying to source part numbers for glyco bearings. There is a company that has all I need but they are in Australia. Trying to find a supplier nearer to home but they don't have selection by engine like the aussie site. Will have to poach the numbers off their site maybe.