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Post by **V6 Man** » 17 Aug 2004 08:05 pm

jtbo wrote:
For upsifting I would like to have some brakes for engine as I would like to get rpm's down faster

The few European trucks that still have 'crash' (non synchro) boxes have a clutch brake for this very purpose.

Post by **5lab** » 17 Aug 2004 08:20 pm

get a bigger engine, does the job all by itself

Post by **jtbo** » 17 Aug 2004 08:30 pm

If I get my engine modded for next summer, it should change rpm faster

Today I got fuel injectors

Post by **foggyjames** » 17 Aug 2004 11:46 pm

Flywheel weight is as critical as anything there - lighten the flywheel, and it'll spin up and spin down faster!

In some cars you can shift entirely without the clutch, especially if you use the throttle too. My neighbour reckoned it was faster....my arse it was!

cheers

James

Post by **jtbo** » 18 Aug 2004 06:11 am

I actually did lighten flywheel 6 months ago and now it is as light as it can get, those renix holes are limiting that how light it can be

Effect was positive, but hunger grows

Fuel injection could be bit better as it cuts fuel when accelerator is lifted, but I still need near 900 euros for parts

There is mazda 323 (-88) at work and with it changing without clutch is faster, engine and clutch work as team in that car, rpms are changing enough fast so gears are possible to change as fast as you can push and pull gear stick. Volvo gear box is not as good in that matter, but design has been with different approach

Post by **foggyjames** » 18 Aug 2004 12:47 pm

To be honest, I've never really found it to be a problem - the next gear drags the engine speed down as you engage it. Not that smooth, admittedly, but it works!

cheers

James

Post by **5lab** » 18 Aug 2004 01:28 pm

i dont actually have the problem at all, reguardless of how quick i change gear, by the time i've dropped the clutch again the engine revs are just about right

Post by **jtbo** » 18 Aug 2004 04:39 pm

Hmm, but I really need to wait until I push it in as it will go gently when rpms are ok, but if not it will have lot of resistance and also not healty for gearbox either.
Of course such situation happens only when drag racing and I don't do that very often. Only sometimes it is needed to do 900-5500rpm with 1st, 2nd and 3rd as quick as possible

1st gear from 0km/h to shift point is little less than 2 seconds, shift to 2nd takes almost same time. At start rpms are around 900-1200 if going 'stealth'.
Shift from 2nd to 3rd is usually faster, but it does not feel ok when rpms are going quickly down with help of clutch, it makes big bang.
However, my engine mounting needs some work. It has always been very loose so engine can move a lot.

But when going with traffic there is no problem at all

Post by **5lab** » 18 Aug 2004 05:02 pm

thats nothing to do with engine speeds - thats the torque tube spinning down.

Post by **foggyjames** » 18 Aug 2004 05:15 pm

Well I'm very confused about this....mine just doesn't do that! The engine mounts may well be to blame.

cheers

James

Post by **V6 Man** » 18 Aug 2004 05:29 pm

You sure you lot don't need driving lessons?

Post by **jtbo** » 18 Aug 2004 06:16 pm

Well, if I would happen to live in britain, I'm sure i would need to do driving school few times again already

I like to keep my engine and brakes clean, but that is sometimes problem with authorities.

When I'm driving easy then there is no problem with gears, only when I'm bit evil driver, lol. Racing transmission needed

indeed torque tube makes part of problem, there is not much to do with that. Only can make that better if I win in lottery

Post by **foggyjames** » 19 Aug 2004 12:51 am

V6 Man wrote:You sure you lot don't need driving lessons?

I have taken Mr Rupert here for a ride, so I will leave him to pass judgement. Feel free to be harsh sir, as payback for me getting you to help lift kitchen appliances!!

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 12 Sep 2004 08:55 pm

the gear engagement problem is exactly the same as on my 360. until I changed the clutch to a proper Volvo one. The one that came out still had plenty of depth on it but the clutch was starting to slip, basically it was a load of rubbish.

For the person that had just changed his/her clutch 6 months ago, did the person doing the work grease the clutch splines to make sure the clutch disengages properly? Also check the clutch pedal clearance. It should be 150-160mm from the top of the pedal to the carpet.

Post by **Chris_C** » 12 Sep 2004 09:23 pm

I'm guessing that the garage did all the required, they are known to work to a high standard, especially on older cars (not that that makes too much difference in this case)

I will measure the pedal clearance, but in the back of my mind I was thinking it was the syncro, but transmission is not my area of knowledge.

I remember a time back reading in one of the VOC technicals (seem to think quiet recently) about two rubber bits in the gearbox that require changing after several (lots!!) of years, if not the gearstick has a small wobble when engaged (in the left/right plane). Now, mine has this, so I'll also check the past VOC technicals to see if I can find the article again. Doubt they'll be connected, but maybe.....