About the engine mounts.

[pettaw]

Actually. its both

the viscous coupling has a special oil that does indeed thicken as it gets hotter, transmitting more drive to the fan. It also has a bimetallic spring that releases more oil into the outside of the coupling transmitting even more drive to the fan, so its a combination.

Apparently, according to the Americans, the cheaper aftermarket couplings only have the speciel oil, they don't have the secondary valves that change the pressure to increase the drive.

I also noticed a funny noise on mine when it got very hot and this was related to the fan belts being just slightly too tight. When I loosened it off, the noise got immediately better.

Hope that helps

[foggyjames]

Well I thought it sounded wrong, but it's the only explanation I've read before I had my spare one apart, and it made on sense to me at all.

cheers

James

[Fuse]

I did some more checking and in mine it's definately the engine mounts which are bad.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... G_1969.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... G_1971.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... G_1972.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/G ... G_1973.jpg

As can be seen the rubber thingy, through which the threads come, has come out too much.. Something like 5cm too much of gap there.. I will try to tighten them tomorrow when I get a deep enough socket, but I think it won't do any good as threaded part isn't too long, so there is not much to tighten..

Any ideas for replacement ones, all kinds of ideas are appreciated. Though luckily there are good used ones still available, but if there would be some kind of solution with new parts, it would always be better.

One guy at the Finnish forum got an idea that maybe a thick threaded bar could be used with rubber dampers, so that threaded bar would go through the top bracket and then through the block side bracket and block side bracket would be sandwiched between some rubber mountings. But I think that in that kind of setup there's a problem with tolerances as the hole in the rubber should be a little bit smaller than the threaded bar so the threaded bar wouldn't cause too much vibrations when it goes through the engine mount..

And that sounds a bit too much of hassle, it would need some test fitting and time to make the rubbers and bars right size, so if there's an easier solution It would be great. Of course if nothing "bolt-on" isn't available, then I have to get some used original ones or make something similiar as above.

Luckily this isn't too urgent as the rough idle and vibrations which I had sometime ago were caused by faulty intake manifold gasket. I changed that two days ago that and all vibrations are gone and engine runs much smoother. When changing the gasket I also found that the hose of the IAC valve was badly cracked under the clamp, I changed that hose too. Though I'm still going to do something about those mounts as the engine sits about 5cm too low..

[RandomHero]

As far as i know the rubber piece always comes out that far when the engine hangs in the mounts. It's like that on my car too.

What i did do is put a little piece of steal, i believe 6 mm thick, under the black brackets in which both mounts hang. I don't have any trouble with weird sounds anymore eversince i've done that. The viscous fan has also never hit the plastic cover.

That piece of metal is even available as an original Volvo part. It's listed in the parts catalogue. May be Volvo was expecting this to happen !!

But, what about draining the oil from the mounts, and filling them up with sikaflex. I've read that before in this topic. I've used the material before, and it would make a pretty solid shock absorber i'd say whenever you fill up the mount with it.

[Fuse]

Hmm.. Some people have said that there shouldn't be a gap that big. between the hydraulic mount and the top bracket. I don't know though as I don't have any refernece material.

But this pic shows the actual problem quite well. I'm sorry for the messy block... It's not oil leak anymore, old stains. Most of the oil stuff came from the oil return pipe during the turbo repair, well the pipe leaked before the repair and I haven't washed the block yet.. It also get's messy during the winter as I don't have any covers at the bottom of the engine, I should wash it more often.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/GLT/IMG_1962.jpg

I think that there should be a some kind of gap between the engine and the steering rack? Problem is quite same at the front, oilpan allmost hits the front beam. We had the same problem in GL some years ago, I noticed it as there was a hole in the oilpan because the oilpan had rubbed it self against the front beam. (this doesn't sound quite right.. rubbing against the front beam.. ) That was solved by modifying the beam it self but as I am planning to keep the GLT running and in good shape for many many years to come, (hopefully restore it fully when the budget permits.. ) I would like to get some kind of a better solution for this.

Yeah I've heard about filling the mounts with sikaflex too, does anybody else have anymore info about this?

My last option is to put some steel between the body side brackets and the body but that as a last option as it would need a pretty big block of steel as can be seen from the pic above.. The bolts at the side of the bracket would need some re-adjustment to fit if the block between would be very thick.

[jtbo]

But, what about draining the oil from the mounts, and filling them up with sikaflex. I've read that before in this topic. I've used the material before, and it would make a pretty solid shock absorber i'd say whenever you fill up the mount with it.

This is what I will be doing, when I get around to get something to be done for my mounts.

Anyway my engine sits something like 5cm higher than Fuse's engine, but my engine feels like being loose when Fuse's is more rigid, odd parts those are.

One other solution, one bolt and few thick rubber sheets (maybe 3cm or more) and two washers, you make a sandwich from them replacing current engine mount. This might be quite good too (Hopefully got words translated correctly )

[Fuse]

This is what I will be doing, when I get around to get something to be done for my mounts.

Anyway my engine sits something like 5cm higher than Fuse's engine, but my engine feels like being loose when Fuse's is more rigid, odd parts those are.

Yeah this is weird as the mounts in my car work correctly. When I try to shake the engine only thing which will happen is that the whole car shakes. Also it doesn't roll over when you floor it or when cranking etc... so damping is good but the engine just sits too low for some strange reason.

[Fuse]

One other solution, one bolt and few thick rubber sheets (maybe 3cm or more) and two washers, you make a sandwich from them replacing current engine mount. This might be quite good too (Hopefully got words translated correctly )

But how would the solid bolt affect to the vibrations etc... because it would go through the engine side bracket too, so there would be a solid connection from the upper bracket to the lower one. Of course if the bolt would be smaller size than the hole in the engine mount, then it wouldn't touch the engine side bracket all the time, but could you get the nuts tight enough to prevent any sideways movement.

[jtbo]

Certainly there might be some vibration, but I have no idea if that would be lot or just a little, maybe possible to solve somehow

[Raod]

There's anything new about this problem?

I'm thinking about fit an electric fan to avoid the hits between the fan and the ¿sourround? plastic. What do you think?

Thanks.

[kalyyyyyy]

I have a question about the engine mountings.
My car has one type of engine mount on the right side(the oil filled one) and another type on the other side(this is a rubber one).Is this normal, or 360's should have oil filled mounts on both sides?

As i have not seen the answer to this question, i ask again, can you change the mounts by simply lowering the engine after you have unscrewed the mounts(probably the brackets too?

[foggyjames]

No, that's not normal. They should both be the same.

Yeah...stick a jack under the engine, undo the mounts, lower it an inch or two...and you should be in business.

cheers

James

[kalyyyyyy]

Thank you very much for the quick and usefull answer.

The second type of mount, as i've seen in other topics , seems to bee the older type, used on 345 with b19.

[foggyjames]

I've seen those - they have two bolts on the top, right?

cheers

James