trouble getting into first gear when standing still

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 05 Mar 2007 01:28 am

Yeah, that can be true, second to first works, very rare it won't go into first for me, or other 360's I know of, so something worse seems to be the case here. Also when going into reverse, the crunching people often seem to get can be avoiding by first engaging first gear, then reverse. Something I do automatically now, and never get a crunch at all!

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 05 Mar 2007 11:06 am

I'd love to know what causes "reverse crunch" or the awkwardness to get into first. Only Fake has both out of the three I've had, every 300 I've driven has reverse crunch. My way of sorting out the reverse is you can feel something in the reverse slot if it's going to do it, if you clutch up and down, then it'll go in fine next time... very strange.

Might have to see what the first gear thing is, mine's not as bad as Andy's blue car used to be, but it's getting there :(
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'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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MJ
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Post by MJ » 05 Mar 2007 01:52 pm

Getting first while stationary is fine on our 340, but very difficult when moving. A bit of reving to speed match and a double clutch and alls good.
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 05 Mar 2007 01:57 pm

When it gets bad its worse stationary than when moving. The syncro in Kar and Fake stop you thinking about first till about 5mph!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

IvanAE86
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Post by IvanAE86 » 05 Mar 2007 06:49 pm

reverse crunch: probably a lack of synchro for the reverse gear...quite common on 80's rwd gearboxes. putting it in first probably evens up the speed a bit better or something.

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Post by jtbo » 05 Mar 2007 07:02 pm

That reverse crunch is driver error :lol:

You need to push clutch down (obviously) then take shifter to that R gate and feel when it is ready to accept reverse gear in, shafts must be stopped and it does not happen immediately, you can feel this from stick, there is resistance when you don't force it you can feel how resistance stops and stick slides to ho... position :P

Actually you never should use force when shifting gears, it is sensitive precision tool you have, don't squeeze and move shifter swiftly and gently, learn to feel what shifter tells you.

Sure sometimes parts can be wear and previous wrong use can be made more wear than is normal, like my car won't accept 2nd gear too well, because previous owner has misused it, also 2nd gear whines a bit.
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Post by germ » 05 Mar 2007 08:08 pm

^^ good man
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Post by Ronnie » 05 Mar 2007 10:18 pm

IvanAE86 wrote:reverse crunch: probably a lack of synchro for the reverse gear...quite common on 80's rwd gearboxes. putting it in first probably evens up the speed a bit better or something.
Lack of synchro for reverse gear was my understanding of this too
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 05 Mar 2007 11:52 pm

I do the 1st to reverse as a matter of course now, it didn't do it everytime, but it prevented it ever happening, I hated the sound and it couldn't have been doing bits and piece in there much good!

And with regards to going into 1st MJ, it will be difficult at any great speed, so I always wait until nearly stopped or stopped to engage first, once your even rolling 2nd is fine to get away again.

I know the gearbox in my GLT isn't perfect, oddly, as it's fairly low mileage, but it likes to whine. I suspect someone has used to wrong oil in the past.

Pete
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MJ
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Post by MJ » 06 Mar 2007 12:07 am

I'm not talking about any great speeds.

There's a junction near my house, where I turn off, and go up a steep hill from a low speed (blind junction) and I turn off a short way up this hill. I'm going just a bit too slow for 2nd, so I try to get 1st just before turning up. Usually with some rev matching it'll get it.

+1 for what Jani said about learning the feel of the gearbox. On modern cars you can get any gear at any time, no problem, but with the 300 if you match the revs perfectly, you can tell. Often when in nutral, (about to get 3rd or 4th gear) I'll just very very gently pull the gearstick, and then carefully adjust the revs, and when you get it perfect, that gentle constant pull on the gearstick will be enough and it drops right in. Then you can drop the clutch and the speeds are perfectly matched. :)

Also very useful if you stupidly go for the wrong gear. I've almost done this a couple times, but when the gear seemed difficult to get, I knew something was up, and realised I was trying for the wrong gear :(
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 06 Mar 2007 12:31 am

Nah I knew you didn't mean any great speed mate, just meaning for 1st gear..... Anyway......... your car doesn't get out enough! :P

Yeah, there's definitely no point in forcing the gear stick. Especially if doing over enthusiastic gear changes at speed, as it''s only going to end in a broken linkage!

Pete
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Post by pettaw » 06 Mar 2007 01:47 am

MJ's right about the first gear thing. When the gearboxes have done very little mileage the synchros are very tight and its crunchy to change gear smoothly, and also first gear from any speed apart from standstill is a mission.

The reverse thing is caused by the clucth jamming on slightly and preventing the gearbox from engaging. Because it doesn't have a synchro there's no bands to brake the gearbox down so the gears will engage. My red GLT actually grinds the gears. Must get round to fixing it sometime.....maybe when the weather is warmer :) The first gear then reverse thing is using the synchro wheel of the first gear to stop the gearbox rotating before jamming it into reverse. Not very good for the gearbox....

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Post by Chris_C » 06 Mar 2007 10:29 am

So why does a clutch up and down work then Andy? it's not a double clutch, the only thing I ever thought was it rotated the gears around abit. That wouldn't have the effect of slowing the gearing, because as soon as you put the clutch up, the prop would spin them up quickers...
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Post by pettaw » 06 Mar 2007 07:59 pm

Youi're right, it can also be the gears resting into the wrong place, so clutch up and down will work nicely. But if you find you always need to go into first and then reverse then its the clutch seizing on issue. PITA on a 360 cos the whole lot has to come out, unless anyone can think of a quick way to introduce lubrication onto the clutch shaft without contaminating the plates?

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Post by germ » 06 Mar 2007 10:33 pm

the reverse thing: if you press the clutch fully to the floor (No being lazy as i know some are) and gently flowinly move the gear lever to reverse its easy to get into and no CRUNCH! renching the lever is no good i know lots of people do it without knowing.

in my mums 740 she crunches but i know shes being lazy with the above, as it doesent happen when i do it.

double de-clutching is fun -mainly love the sound :oops: (engine)
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