360 LSD.
Re: 360 LSD.
I'm thinking about my drive train a bit now after fitting a good clutch and stripping my CV joints, will this be suitable for around 200bhp?
You still looking for £650 + shipping?
I don't have much experience with diff mods, will this be an easy swap, need any special tools?
Interesting the original bolts look the same as the unobtanium M12x1.25 flanged serrated hex head brake carrier bolts. If sockets caps fit you can get what you need.
You still looking for £650 + shipping?
I don't have much experience with diff mods, will this be an easy swap, need any special tools?
Interesting the original bolts look the same as the unobtanium M12x1.25 flanged serrated hex head brake carrier bolts. If sockets caps fit you can get what you need.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
In Norway and Sweden, boys and girls are using with over 300Bhp.
Cost in UK and Ireland will be £650 including postage.
It should be striaght swap so should be able to use standard bolts you have.
I need to check with OEM and these LSDs to make sure this is the case.
I'm away with my business so it is difficult for me to check in next week or so.
Cheers
Atchi
In Norway and Sweden, boys and girls are using with over 300Bhp.
Cost in UK and Ireland will be £650 including postage.
It should be striaght swap so should be able to use standard bolts you have.
I need to check with OEM and these LSDs to make sure this is the case.
I'm away with my business so it is difficult for me to check in next week or so.
Cheers
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Pm sent mini swift.
Re: 360 LSD.
I got mine 5-6 months ago and that batch used M12 with 1.5 thread pitch. Original bolts are M12 fine thread meaning M12 1.25 pitch. Original bolts are readily available but M12 x 1.5 pitch is hard to find in 12.9 quality.
They do exist though, so no matter what you should all be able to fit the diff.
I will try to document when I install the diff. Recently took the diff off my donation car so the swap is slowly moving forwards
Link to the bolts I'll be using (because original bolts didn't fit last batch diff)
http://www.300power.com/forum/index.php ... #msg107817
They do exist though, so no matter what you should all be able to fit the diff.
I will try to document when I install the diff. Recently took the diff off my donation car so the swap is slowly moving forwards
Link to the bolts I'll be using (because original bolts didn't fit last batch diff)
http://www.300power.com/forum/index.php ... #msg107817
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
I have checked this batch and it is M12*1.25 fine thread.
Cheers
Atchi
I have checked this batch and it is M12*1.25 fine thread.
Cheers
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
I have sold 1 now. I only got 2 left or I will kepp 1 for myself so may be only 1 left....
I'm not sure when I will get it made again next, mind!
Cheers
Atchi
I have sold 1 now. I only got 2 left or I will kepp 1 for myself so may be only 1 left....
I'm not sure when I will get it made again next, mind!
Cheers
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
I have only 1 left and since no one wants this one. I think I will not get any more made as I have been asked to make them and when I get it made....
Well, I'm not building my RWD kit car as well so this will be the last one.
Cheers
Atchi
I have only 1 left and since no one wants this one. I think I will not get any more made as I have been asked to make them and when I get it made....
Well, I'm not building my RWD kit car as well so this will be the last one.
Cheers
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
2 people are interested so I shall sell my own as well to fulfill demand.
Thank you very much for your support when I was looking for advice for my RWD kit car project.
It is very unfortunate that I cannot finish this project as my work commitment will not allow me to work on my many car projects.
I think I will sell all of my spares in due time, so if any of you are interested with 360 torque tube, gearbox, driveshafts, Suzuki Swift Gti bellhousing to V3 bell housing. Plaese let me know.
This modified bell housing will let you have G13B 1300 16v engine(105Bhp) to fit volvo 360 gearbox. I have a friend who has 380bhp from this 1310cc turbo charged engine. So, it will be still ecconomical but it will kick ass!
Cheers
Atchi
2 people are interested so I shall sell my own as well to fulfill demand.
Thank you very much for your support when I was looking for advice for my RWD kit car project.
It is very unfortunate that I cannot finish this project as my work commitment will not allow me to work on my many car projects.
I think I will sell all of my spares in due time, so if any of you are interested with 360 torque tube, gearbox, driveshafts, Suzuki Swift Gti bellhousing to V3 bell housing. Plaese let me know.
This modified bell housing will let you have G13B 1300 16v engine(105Bhp) to fit volvo 360 gearbox. I have a friend who has 380bhp from this 1310cc turbo charged engine. So, it will be still ecconomical but it will kick ass!
Cheers
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Where do I get torque settings and gaskets?
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
Hi,
I think you should get info from Haynes manual for sure.
Gaskets wise, I think you can ask Mac. He makes some of gasket which are out of production.
I hope these info help!?
Thanks
Atchi
I think you should get info from Haynes manual for sure.
Gaskets wise, I think you can ask Mac. He makes some of gasket which are out of production.
I hope these info help!?
Thanks
Atchi
Re: 360 LSD.
Definitely not for sure. The bearing retainers and flange bolts are not listed for torque. I have reverse engineered these as;
Bearing retainer: 24ftlb
Flange bolt: 16ftlb
The gasket I was referring to is a metal spacer, reusable but a bit rusty. O-ring is probably reuseable., but hopefully sourceable.
Think I need a new bearing, have a small damage in the race. The oil seal is 38x58x10mm double lip.
I assume bearings have to be moved over, seems tight any tips on removal?
I have macs gasket kit.
Bearing retainer: 24ftlb
Flange bolt: 16ftlb
The gasket I was referring to is a metal spacer, reusable but a bit rusty. O-ring is probably reuseable., but hopefully sourceable.
Think I need a new bearing, have a small damage in the race. The oil seal is 38x58x10mm double lip.
I assume bearings have to be moved over, seems tight any tips on removal?
I have macs gasket kit.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
I get 90ftlb for the M12x1.25p. Still not sure how the bearings come off.
The loose flange/spacer thing does not seem to fit the recess in the crown, and the main block is pretty tight, do they need to be heated, forced or enouraged?
The loose flange/spacer thing does not seem to fit the recess in the crown, and the main block is pretty tight, do they need to be heated, forced or enouraged?
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
Got the bearing off the crown wheel by using chisels tapped in from the side and 2 to lever it off. I did bend the cage and basically destroy it in the end while experimenting, but both bearings have some minor damage so needed replacing anyway.
The crown wheel was heated to about 180c in the oven, everything fitted easily then. I also used the oven to help remove the bearing.
The bearing retainers were also heated to 160c to remove the outer races easily. I kept the temp a bit lower as I'd painted these before.
The original bolts are still too long and the thread depths are inconsistent, possibly due to the breakout into the side below the main rim. My tap also seemed to jam up. The originals are 35 and I think its been discussed we need 30. The brake carrier bolts are 32mm and do fit but it would be risky that some of the torque is going into bottoming out, to be honest I'm not sure the 30mm is enough to consider thread taper near the bottom. Anyway the brake bolts are unobtainium as are 30mm or any length really in the right spec. Socket caps are available but these are 2mm higher, much narrower head, no serrations. Also the shank is narrower than the thread so these are a bit special (although the brake bolts are fully threaded you might find tolerance issues). I can't tell at the moment if there is a spare 2mm clearance as I need the new bearings but it looks tight, so I'm considering modifying the rare original bolts which just seems wrong.
I also wonder what effect the different thread engagement will have on the torque, how much thread of the thin walled material can be counted? I don't want to see thread as this may start a crack in the thin material once the bolt is torqued up and it is pushed out into the hole in the side. Really the thin material should be cut out to leave a flat and strong end to the thread, or ideally leave the boss the same thickness as the original, but I don't know if this was done for a reason.
Someone mentioned about bearing preload, I have an idea what this means but how do you adjust it? Are different spacers for the retainers available or do they need milled down? Should it be accurate enough?
Output Bearings: Timken LM48548/LM48510
Output Seals: 38x58x10 garter spring with additional dust lip, material doesn't seem to matter but the original was black.
These seem pretty easy to get, currently waiting delivery £28 the lot.
The crown wheel was heated to about 180c in the oven, everything fitted easily then. I also used the oven to help remove the bearing.
The bearing retainers were also heated to 160c to remove the outer races easily. I kept the temp a bit lower as I'd painted these before.
The original bolts are still too long and the thread depths are inconsistent, possibly due to the breakout into the side below the main rim. My tap also seemed to jam up. The originals are 35 and I think its been discussed we need 30. The brake carrier bolts are 32mm and do fit but it would be risky that some of the torque is going into bottoming out, to be honest I'm not sure the 30mm is enough to consider thread taper near the bottom. Anyway the brake bolts are unobtainium as are 30mm or any length really in the right spec. Socket caps are available but these are 2mm higher, much narrower head, no serrations. Also the shank is narrower than the thread so these are a bit special (although the brake bolts are fully threaded you might find tolerance issues). I can't tell at the moment if there is a spare 2mm clearance as I need the new bearings but it looks tight, so I'm considering modifying the rare original bolts which just seems wrong.
I also wonder what effect the different thread engagement will have on the torque, how much thread of the thin walled material can be counted? I don't want to see thread as this may start a crack in the thin material once the bolt is torqued up and it is pushed out into the hole in the side. Really the thin material should be cut out to leave a flat and strong end to the thread, or ideally leave the boss the same thickness as the original, but I don't know if this was done for a reason.
Someone mentioned about bearing preload, I have an idea what this means but how do you adjust it? Are different spacers for the retainers available or do they need milled down? Should it be accurate enough?
Output Bearings: Timken LM48548/LM48510
Output Seals: 38x58x10 garter spring with additional dust lip, material doesn't seem to matter but the original was black.
These seem pretty easy to get, currently waiting delivery £28 the lot.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
Well got the bits and got the main reassembly done.
Bearings dropped onto the crownwheel and new LSD with a bit of heat (180C), and the outer race the same into the aluminium bearing retainers. (outer parts heated, inner parts cooled if possible)
The crownwheel bolts had to be cut down to 30mm and a couple of long 10mm bolts (spare from rear springs) used to hold the crownwheel as the new diff is round. The original diff core has flat parts I could grip with the workmate but no grip method would work on the new diff. After checking with a drill bit, I think socket head bolts would fit as there is nearly 4mm and these would only add 2mm. Hard to check the rear but the main close part is the oil catcher for the top of the bearing. A standard socket cap bolt would not have the same flange or serration but it works fine for many other locations and does have the same contact area as a hex head (just not a flanged hex head).
The new assembly seemed a good level of 'stiff' and could be turned by hand at the wheel drive flanges(but not in opposite directions unlike the open diff), so I figure the pre-load is ok. I added a bit of instant gasket to the spacer both sides on the outer diameter to seal it up and keep moisture away from the steel-aluminium interface.
Bearings dropped onto the crownwheel and new LSD with a bit of heat (180C), and the outer race the same into the aluminium bearing retainers. (outer parts heated, inner parts cooled if possible)
The crownwheel bolts had to be cut down to 30mm and a couple of long 10mm bolts (spare from rear springs) used to hold the crownwheel as the new diff is round. The original diff core has flat parts I could grip with the workmate but no grip method would work on the new diff. After checking with a drill bit, I think socket head bolts would fit as there is nearly 4mm and these would only add 2mm. Hard to check the rear but the main close part is the oil catcher for the top of the bearing. A standard socket cap bolt would not have the same flange or serration but it works fine for many other locations and does have the same contact area as a hex head (just not a flanged hex head).
The new assembly seemed a good level of 'stiff' and could be turned by hand at the wheel drive flanges(but not in opposite directions unlike the open diff), so I figure the pre-load is ok. I added a bit of instant gasket to the spacer both sides on the outer diameter to seal it up and keep moisture away from the steel-aluminium interface.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 360 LSD.
Thank you for doing step by step.
I was hoing to do this but since I don't have diff any more, I couldn't.
Every time I buy 1 for myself, there is always late comer!
Do yell us when you finished and how it drives.
Cheers
Atchi
I was hoing to do this but since I don't have diff any more, I couldn't.
Every time I buy 1 for myself, there is always late comer!
Do yell us when you finished and how it drives.
Cheers
Atchi