Will there ever be a new batch of these LSD's? If so, I am interested...

I might get 2 more made later this year.

That might be the last one...

Ok, can you keep me posted? I don't really frequent this forum but am very interested in a LSD.

Hi! i´m a onwer of an 360, and i´m looking for an lsd diff. Is this post still active? looks like forgiven and it was so interesting.

Cheers

Dai, owner of classicswede bought some and they are for sale here. If there are any left I don't know! It's basically the last chance of getting this torsen diff so buy it now

His website
classicswede.co.uk

Look under 300 series and then driveline/transmission.
Good luck!

Hi, i bought Miniswifts last diff, after testing the first ever.

Ive had a similar problem with the spacer / worm gear retainer ring being too big for the crown wheel. Its currently at the machine shop with the crown wheel to get it to sit flush. I need to get shorter bolts too. M12 x 1.25 x 30mm at 12.9 grade is what is needed from what i've found. I read earlier about socket head screws, these are the only ones i've found and i'm concerned they might not be as good as the flanged hex head. Any thoughts?

Are you sure the threads are 1.25? If yes, you can use your original volvo bolts if you shorten them.

Some batch(es?) was made with 1.5 thread pitch, mine did. If that's the case, here's some info on sourcing a 1.5 thread pitch m12 12.9 bolt http://www.300power.com/forum/index.php ... #msg107817

Also, could you upload photo what the machinist did? I recently took a marker and marked my distance plate to try to see the interfering spots, but it was really hard. I think a slight undercut would be needed on my distance plate to make it seat. One day...

Nimminz wrote: Ive had a similar problem with the spacer / worm gear retainer ring being too big for the crown wheel. Its currently at the machine shop with the crown wheel to get it to sit flush.

Hi! I had also the same problem but got it sorted. But now with the diff bolted to the crown wheel the diff is mostly easy movable but so firm it hurts my hands one time per revolution on the driveshaft flanges. The diff is oiled.

Is this normal or do I still have some clearing problem?
Should I take the diff apart or mount it and let it worn in during driving?

I would say if there is a tight spot something is wrong. Best open the cover and check for what is sticking

classicswede wrote:I would say if there is a tight spot something is wrong. Best open the cover and check for what is sticking

Now I have checked and found a tight spot..

If you look at the blue line you can see that the "center gear" is not flush with the smaller ones ore even the face of the diff. That makes that gear squeezed between the spacer and the seat in the diff housing (next picture) If I push my hand to the spacer like this and twist, the gears is turning because of the spacer is riding on the teeth of the center gear: ''

The Spacer is flush like I said in my last post. So don´t think its a good Idea to take more from that in the lathe. My question or suggestion is therefore that the center gear teeth surface meeting the spacer (red arrow in first picture), or the surface that the center gear is sitting on (red arrow in second picture), could be/should be corrected with the lathe.

Thoughts on that

Why is it only once per revolution? Is the hole not straight or something, maybe I didn't understand your explanation. Is one tooth missing the end chamfer?

The diff relies on more friction and oil pumping to some degree by the worm gears to reduce the slip.

Try taking the worm gears out, does it still do it. Then you can reduce the search area for the problem.

If you can turn it by hand it is useable, but I don't know if it will cause a problem or not. Mostly its only turning slowly differentially, or not atall.

Hi again. Sorry for the long delay. Spring/summer time isn't the best time for garage work with lots of other things to do.

Now I have sorted the last, or better the most recent problem with my Torsen not turning easy though we made the spacer flush.

My friend took of a bit more with the lathe to make the centrum gear (teeth) go free. But just a partially countersink so that the worm gears still have their surface to lean on.
Without this countersink, the centrum gear was squeezed between the diff and the spacer and ring gear and ring gear bolts.
Now it can move freeely by hand. Until I fit the drive flanges.. Explanation in next post:

To the LAST problem(s) hopefully:

So now the Torsen diff is finally bolted together with the crown wheel, fitted to the diff housing with new bearings and seals.
Preload, backlash and gear contact pattern is somewhere in the ballpark. So far all good!

BUT. When the drive flanges is bolted in, the diff once again become almost impossible to turn differentially.
Actually, its already when you stick the right hand drive flange in a bit that the resistance is showing up.

Left hand side is rotating easy. Until you tighten the center bolt, holding the drive flange.


After some measuring and thinking the thing is clear:

- The right hand side drive flange is too tight in diameter so it sticks to the diff so the hole thing is rotating. The hole needs to be taken up slightly in diameter.
- The left hand side drive flange "hole" is too deep so when you bolt it down it sticks to the outer end of the bearing tap. Should be fixed with a thin M8 washer as a spacer.

Some bad luck with that diff, sonds like it wa made badly. I wonder how many are installed and in use.

Ride_on wrote:Some bad luck with that diff, sonds like it wa made badly. I wonder how many are installed and in use.

Yes its not fun. Hopefully this last problem is solved by my friend and his lathe.
As long as there is too much material you can always take some away. The other way around had been a headache.

I feel sorry for those who eventually has same problems and no friends thats able to help out.