Heres the start of the how to I've been saying I will do for awhile. I'll be updating this as I go along with the build, so it won't be finished in one go. Also easier to break it down, so I can remember what I did! Thought I'd do this, because there isn't a step by step guide of how to do it as of yet, so thought it'd help people out.

A little bit of background first. The F series engines are used in early clios, meganes, and 19s. They share the same block as the 400 series volvos as well (early and late models), so in theory, all f series engines should fit with minor modification (the Laguna F series engines will fit. as i have an F3r that will fit. and so will the diesel F7Q's or what ever theyre labeled - Kaos). The F series clio engines differ as follows: R = 2.0ltr - 150bhp approx, P = 1.8ltr - 135bhp approx (both of these are the easiest to swap into the volvo). The clio engines are more desired, due to having a dizzy cap instead of the coil ignition from the megane (the coils have proved un-reliable in some cars), also the Megane ECU doesn't have as much working knowledge (i.e. not many people are familiar with it), so there isn't as much support as Fenix 3 from the Clio. The megane also has an immobilizer, which can be problematic. (Chris_C)

The reason for the F7R/P engine swap being so popular and relatively easy to do (minimal modification of your volvo/renault engine) is that the 1.7 engined volvo 340 uses an earlier version of the same renault block, hence why the swap is "bolt in". Also, the F7R/P engines are quite easy to come by, and tuning parts and spares for the engine are readily available. However, there are several things that need to be swapped over from the 1.7 engined volvo to the F7R/P for it to work. In this guide, I will show you what to swap over from the 1.7 engine to the renault one, and how to fit it. Things like the bell-housing (clutch cover) engine mounts, alternator mounts and water pipes from the volvo all fit directly to the renault engine, with no modification.

A list of what parts from the volvo 1.7 can be found here, which also shows what extra parts are needed if your 340 is the 1.4 variety:

http://volvo340.wikispaces.com/ NOTE: Use a 11720~9F610 coded belt (mine was from a Nissan Almera), or a 6PK818 coded belt, not a 1.7 volvo one.

My 340 is an earlier MK2 1.4 version, so even more extra parts had to be used for mine for the swap (later MK3 engine subframe, anti-roll bar, and engine mounts). if yours is a MK3, these parts need not be touched. The 1.4 swap requires a bit more work, but most of the steps will be the same as with the 1.7 engined versions. I will tell you what steps to skip, if yours is a 1.7.

Extras I have used to make my swap easier:

3 bar walbro fuel pump and sender from Adam (username: 340GLT)
shortened custom renault loom, again Adam
speed sensor for renault ECU, again Adam

Adam also does a flipped manifold conversion, relocating the air filter at the front of the engine bay (when not flipped, the air filter will be at the back, next to the bulkhead). I didnt go for this option, as I will be ITBing the engine in the future.

The link to Adam's conversion parts, with prices: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=8&t=6092

This guide is split into section:

SECTION 1. RENAULT COMPONENT REMOVAL/VOLVO COMPONENT FITTING

1. PULLEYS

2. CLUTCH & SPIGOT BEARING

3. BELL-HOUSING & BEARING HOUSING/INPUT SHAFT

4. WATER TEMP SENDER & STAT HOUSING

5. SUMP & RH ENGINE MOUNT

SECTION 2. REMOVAL OF OLD ENGINE/LOWERING RENAULT ENGINE IN

SECTION 3. COOLANT HOSE ROUTING & THERMOSTAT

1. THERMOSTAT

2. COOLANT HOSE ROUTING

SECTION 4. ECU/ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

If anyone reading this can suggest things that can be added, changed (mistakes I've made) or anything PM me. Preferably I'd like to keep this thread as clean as possible, as it'll all be done in steps, so it'd be confusing having random banter in between them

At the sake of cluttering it already....

Do you want to make your posts clean and have others add to this thread with you editing your posts? That way, when it's complete we can delete everyone else (;)) and move it to the V3M how to in the technical section whilst allowing a discussion from those who've had different experiences.

First point is all 400 series should fit, not just early's.

Second, Megane ECU doesn't have as much working knowledge, so there isn't as much support as Fenix 3 from the Clio (to add to the don't megane coils point)

Let me know the direction you want to take it, if you dont want any other posts etc I can delete this one and lock it completely, but I think it'd be a shame.

heh heh, no worries dude. That sounds like a good idea, I'll do that. easier than me reading a load of pms too.

Cheers for the info as well. I'll get that added now. (BTW, with regards to the megane ecu, do you mean read outs and info from the engine? or peoples familiarity with the megane ecu?)

More how to get round the immobiliser. Plus there is a lot of info on remapping Fenix if you look hard enough, it's how some people here run interesting maps

SECTION 1: RENAULT COMPONENT REMOVAL/VOLVO COMPONENT FITTING

If you have a 1.7 engined volvo and are using the parts from that engine, remove the engine from the vehicle first. Certain parts will not be removable if the engine is still in the car.

1. PULLEYS.

The first step is to remove the two pulleys that wont be needed for when the engine goes into the volvo. These are the powered steering pump and pulley, and an idler pulley. These are shown in the diagram below, circled in red.



To remove the pulleys, firstly remove the alternator and drive belt by removing the alternator pivot bolt and the bolts holding it to the inlet manifold. Once thats out of the way, the rest of the bracketry can be removed with ease, by removing all the bolts holding them in place. Both the power steering pump, pulley, and idler are attached in one unit, so when removed, will come off as a whole.

there are two bolts at the front (make sure to keep hold of all the bolts removed, as these will be used for mounting the volvo engine parts)


and the rest are on the side. (also remove the inlet manifold brace, seen at the top right corner of this pic)


once removed, you should have the side looking something like this


The top 3 bolt locations are now used for the top volvo alternator mount
The lower 4 are used for the left hand volvo engine mount (top right one not used)
The 2 front locations are used for the alternator tensioner

(Before the LH engine mount is bolt on, it is a good oppurtunity to fit (if you have it - not needed if your not running the volvo heater matrix) to fit the metal 1.7 volvo t-piece, to replace the straight renault pipe, that exits the back of the water pump. This will be covered in the water pipe section of the guide too.)

Left hand engine mount


Lower & Upper Alternator mounting points


You can then fit the shorter aux belt. I used one from a Nissan Almera, code 11720~9F610, however, so long as that code is on the belt, it can be used, no matter what make it is from. It is also the same belt as a 6PK818 belt.

2. CLUTCH & SPIGOT BEARING

To remove the renault clutch (if fitted) undo the six bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, being careful not to round off or lose the bolts (the same ones will be used for the volvo clutch). Once the clutch is off, REMEMBER TO FIT A SPIGOT BEARING, this is extremely important, as the the input shaft from the clutch bellhousing locates within it, centering it. If you fit everything and forget to fit the bearing, its just a hassle to remove everything again to fit it. If there is one already present, its a good idea to renew the bearing anyway, as it is far more accessible out of the car. I got my bearing off Dai (classicswede) here: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=8&t=1804

Tap the new spigot bearing home gently, into the flywheel centre, with a suitable drive.


Once thats fitted, the volvo 1.7 clutch can now be fitted (clutch plate, cover plate, and thrust bearing).

When fitting the clutch plate, make sure it is the correct way around, (flywheel marked side toward flywheel ) To centre the clutch plate, I used a deep set 10mm and 14mm socket. The 10mm socket locates within the spigot bearing, and the 14mm socket sits over the 10mm socket, as well as acting as a centre for the clutch plate.



Locate the pressure plate on the flywheel, and hand tighten the 6 bolts originally used for the renault clutch, doing top most bolt, then bottom most, and working your way around, torque them up to TORQUE in the same order.

Finished article


3. BELL-HOUSING & BEARING HOUSING/INPUT SHAFT

If you have a 1.4 engined 340, you will need a 1.7 bell-housing AS WELL AS the bearing housing/input shaft. The 1.4 version of the shaft is shorter. You will also need the 1.7 engine mounts and 1.7 bell-housing bolts.

Bolt size are as follows:

M10 x 1.5mm pitch grade 8.8 or better (important!) hex headed

3 x 125 long, thread length 30
1 x 90 long, thread length 27
1 x 55 long, thread length 29

(thanks To Alex Laidlaw for those)

Disconnect the clutch cable at the housing end, underneath the rubber shroud.



Remove the 1.7 bell-housing and bearing housing if needed, as well as the galvanised blanking plate. Here it is a good idea to replace the clutch release bearing, as it is easily accessible. Below, the difference between the 1.7 and 1.4 housings can be seen (1.7 on left), as well as the clutch release bearing location.



To remove the bearing, press in the spring clip points that hold the bearing lever onto the housing (top left of lever), and move the lever forward. Then, twist the bearing counter clock wise and pull it out. Before replacing it, re-grease the bearing shaft, and put the new bearing in place, making sure it is located on the release lever. Twist the bearing so it locates, and replace the spring clip. Test the action of the assembly by moving the lever up and down from the outside of the housing. It should NOT fall off its pivot point. If it does, re do the spring clip.

Bearing removed


Shaft greased


New bearing fitted


Fit the renault flywheel sensor, at the top of the volvo bell-housing. (renault sensor in my hand)



To make the fitting and locating of the input shaft into the spigot bearing, I loosened the bearing housing bolts, but not enough for the housing to be completely removable. I then located the bell-housing and shaft onto the engine, and loosely located the bell-housing bolts onto the engine, and tightened until the bolt face was touching the housing face. I then did up very gradually the bearing housing bolts, which gently pushed the input shaft into the bearing on the flywheel. I did the same for the bell-housing bolts as well, gently tightening them until they were tight enough to be torqued up.

The galvanised plate will be fitted once the 1.7 sump has been fitted, as it is easier to do it in this order. The plate protects the exposed flywheel/clutch components from road debris.





4. WATER TEMP SENDER & STAT HOUSING

Take the water temp sensor from your water pump on your volvo engine (either the 1.4 or 1.7 will fit and work). The 1.4 sender is located here:



Then, simply unscrew the renault sender here:



and screw in and tighten the volvo sender.

If you want to, use a thermostat housing from a Renault 19, as that housing sends the pipes in a more suitable direction as opposed to the clio one. It bolts to the same points as the clio unit. I didnt use a R19 housing, as I routed the pipes in a different way, because of the future ITBing (you can also just make do and route the coolant hosing however you want, there is no specific way of routing it. Just be careful of the hot exhaust manifold and rubber hosing!). The differences between the two are in the image below.

IMAGE

5. SUMP/RH ENGINE MOUNT

Remove the clio sump by undoing the Torx 40 bolts. Here, I'd highly recommend some high quality torx bits, to prevent rounding of the bolts. I also tapped the bit into the bolt, ensuring a good even distribution of load when undoing, as they are more than likely pretty stiff! There are several hidden bolts at the rear end of the engine, so make sure you remove all the bolts before hitting it with a hammer to remove the sump from its gasket.

Undoing the torx bolts


The removal of the sump will reveal the oil pump.


This needs to be modified slightly to fit the volvo sump. To remove it, undo the four bolts holding it to the engine.




Gently guide the pump down from the engine, and then remove the oil pump from the plastic shroud. (It makes trimming the plastic easier, as well as preventing plastic bits from entering the pump). There are 4 torx bolts holding the two halves of the shroud together.

This is the corner that needs to be trimmed


Test fit the assembly by placing it within the volvo sump. The pump mounting points should be flush with the sump top. If not, trim the plastic until it fits.




Re-fit the oil pump, making sure the pump shaft splines align with the drive gear inside the block.

Before the sump is fitted, remove the dipstick, as well as the clio oil gauge sender from the engine. This makes the fitting of the sump easier, as nothing is in the way. The clio sender can be removed completely, as it was used for the clio oil gauges. The volvo 1.7 block has a blanking plug that can be swapped over, otherwise you can leave the sender there to use with some clio gauges, or cut the wires off, as well as the plastic that sits inside the sump. I cut them off.



The sump can now be fitted to the renault engine, with a new gasket and sealant. I used a gasket from a volvo 480 turbo. Tighten the sump bolts to 13Nm. The galvanised blanking plate can now be fitted to the rear end of the block. There are two indents on the plate, that locate on the sump. Fit the plate with the pressed "X" pointing outwards. If its the other way around, it will foul the flywheel. My plate needed the two indents modifying, due to the thicker gasket used.

NOTE: When lowering the engine into the car, I did not fit the sump until the engine was most of the way into the car, due to clearance issues. This may be easier for you also. Once the engine is lowered part way into the engine bay, fit the sump and RH engine mount. Then lower the rest of the way.

The right hand engine mount fits onto the right hand side of the sump, like this.


The rubber/poly mount can then be bolted to the cast mount.

The engine is now ready to be dropped into the car.

Firstly i'd like to add.

the Laguna F series engines will fit. as i have an F3r that will fit. and so will the diesel F7Q's or what ever theyre labeled


Secondly you dont need the T piece if your not running an internal heater etc.

I gotta say thanks for posting this.. I'm planning the same job myself sometime in teh summer and being able to read through the whole process in detail like this will make a massive difference. It makes a job a lot more attractive when you can know 100% what's involved before you start. Thanks again..

And again:D

Cheers Kaos, I'll add the details. Forgot to add that bout the heater, ta.

Jon, no problem mate! Glad its going to help!

If you go for Silicon hoses, couldn't you just use a universal T-piece to connect these hoses?

You can for any hoses, the 340 T just makes things look neat. The 480T engine has a T already there which is handy.

yarp.

this is going to be alot of help!!

SECTION 2: REMOVAL OF OLD ENGINE/LOWERING RENAULT ENGINE IN

You will need the help of a friend or two to help with guidance of the engine/crane operation

The principal of removing both the the 1.4 and 1.7 engines is the same.

Remove and disconnect the old engine ancillaries and connections, like exhaust downpipe, coolant hosing, wiring and heater fan box.

Using the engine crane to support the engine slightly, loosen the front engine mounts, and the rear rubber mounts holding the bell-housing to the brackets on the chassis. The removal of the chassis brackets is not needed, as these will be used for the renault engine.

Underneath the car, loosen the front most bolt that clamps the input shaft to the prop-shaft.

Once all the engine mounting nuts are removed, the old engine can then be raised up and out of the engine bay. While the engine is being hoisted up, move the engine forward slightly to release the input shaft from the prop. Swing the engine free.

Remove the exhaust manifold from the renault engine. This gives more wiggle room for guiding the engine down, as well as preventing the manifold from getting snagged on the brake master cylinder.

Here is where your mates really come in handy. I lowered the engine, bell-housing and all, into the bay at the same time. This needed to be done, as it would be hard to fit the housing etc once the engine was in the bay, as well as the rear mounts being located on the bell-housing. When lowering the renault engine into the bay, I found the best technique was to remove the sump and oil pump for extra clearance, as well as using one of my mates to use a rope wrapped around the bell-housing to tilt the engine to 45 degrees, allowing room for the input shaft and bell-housing to clear the bulkhead. This also allowed for easy location of the prop onto the input shaft from the engine. One person operates the crane, the other tilts the engine, and the other gives guidance from around and underneath the car, guiding the input shaft onto the prop.

Removing the old engine


Guiding the new engine in


Once mostly in, fit the oil pump and sump to the engine (if removed), and guide the rest of the way. Again, I found the best way to do it was to locate one front mounting point, loosely fit a nut, so it doesn't pop back out. Then, locate the rest of the mounting points in turn, attaching a bolt a few turns onto the point to prevent it from going out of line again when moving the engine.

Engine mostly in

SECTION 3: COOLANT HOSE ROUTING/THERMOSTAT

1. Thermostat

As mentioned in section 1, two thermostat housings can be used, either from clio or R19. I used the clio housing.

For the clio housing:



1.The top most small outlet goes to the left hand opening on the coolant reservoir tank
2. Outlet directly facing bulkhead blanked off
3. Outlet to heater matrix (if using heaters, otherwise blanked off)
4. Largest outlet to top radiator outlet

2. COOLANT HOSE ROUTING

Starting from the thermostat housing, (and referring to the image above) the small outlet top left should be connected to the left hand small outlet on the expansion tank. Note: Where a 1.4 engine has been removed, this expansion inlet was un-used, and was just left open by Volvo. Where a 1.7 engine has been removed, this inlet was used to the same affect as the clio engine stat will be used, and overflow port.

The image below shows where the various hoses go to and from the expansion tank.

It could be me, but will the 1.7 pressure plate be used or the f7x one? Or does it make no difference? Same for the release-bearing
Does someone maybe have a number or sizes for the pilot/spigot bearing?

And keep up the good work I'll be using this guide