Jon is in NI,

I've seen a lot of drift 360's break those cups so the problem could well be down to gearbox mount issues.

classicswede wrote:Jon is in NI,

Like I'm in NI? (for postal purposes )

AFAIK he's physically in ROI.

mine is gones toos. I needs lots. like 3 cars worth o think.

So one of my mounts is cracked and wasted around the bolt holes for the bush, they can't be welded. My long term solution is 3d printing and moulding but short term I have made a reinforcing cover. I started thinking of washers but need support to connect the furthest away bolt. I'm not sure how strong this will be, but its worth a shot.

You could do a flat plate but the edges down the side would be very narrow and weak, it needs a 3d shape. I guess this is the purpose of the dome and edges.

I got a 73mm hole cutter and used some 2.5mm plate I got for engine mountings. If anyone would like a plate with a 73 mm hole as a starter I'll provide for a small price. 73 is slightly too small and needs chamfered but this was intended.

Just remembered about this;

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lumiweld-Kit-Al ... B00BSV6NW4

It might work, along with the strengthener. I'll give it a go I think.

I've tried the lumiweld and it seems to work, however I am reluctant to trust my braising/soldering skill with it and recommend the steel reinforcers aswell. Considering the power upgrade I also decided to go with 2 reinforcers and a cross brace to reduce the torque on the bracket.

The lumiweld is easy in principle provided you follow the rules. You need 380C to melt. I used an electric hot plate on my non-precious cooker together with a simple butane blow torch. Still it took a while to get up to temperature. You want it a good bit below the 380 so you can work on different parts and provide some shape, otherwise it just pools at the bottom of the piece. It works much like solder, has good surface tension but will fall out of big holes when molten. You need to use the stainless steel rod to abraid the Al surface when its molten for the lumiweld to take properly. I tried using plaster of paris moulding to help get the shape but it didn't really work and I end up just using temperature variation to get the shape much like lead loading.

I'm not sure this will be a good solution for everyone. I have nearly new bushes, so it made sense to repair and improve rather than redesign.

Hi,

If anyone can send me a photo of how it is mounted, I can design up in CAD to make steel plate.
I can get it laser cut in 3mm steel, stainless steel or so and weld it up by people. What do you think?

Do you need to have a dorme shape? If we make one to take a common poly bush, we should be able to make one easily.

iirc, there is a tab to fit into somewhere as locator and 3 sided for strength....

Cheers
Atchi

p.s. just came on to see how you people are!

I think the dome is needed for strength otherwise the part would need to be wider and would not fit. I'm not a mechanical engineer but stainless seems too weak/brittle for such a highly stressed part. Also it really needs to control the diff movement well, the original bush has sideways and vertical restrictions from the cross member and rubber insert, and its possible that CVs break when the diff rotates too much.

The cross brace seems useful but it is very hard to fit the strengthen once this is on. I could not remove the brackets from the diff once this was bolted on. Any cross brace needs to be a separate part, there is enough height in the standard bush bolts to fit the 2.5mm steel, this gives sufficient clearance to the cross member.

Howdy!
Can you use these, from a AUDI 80 III (berlina / 89, 89Q, 8A, B3) (2.0 quattro - 85 KW) ?
http://www.autokarma.ro/suport+transmis ... 38/10339/0 althought on site it does not appear the lenght between the holes.

The bushes might fit but I would amazed if they were a match. Anyway the problem is also the brackets.