Welding dif
Welding dif
Sup guys,
An idea of joining a drift night in a track (Rainy day) appears, but of course, my slow as a morse volvo can't do much things, specially if the corners are wide.
I have the B14-4E, and i have the idea of welding the diferential for that purpose... I've heard that the prop shaft is weak, but can be a problem to worry about when welding the dif? Even stock bone engine?
Welding dif, removing rear seats, removing this and that, and BUURN! 3.5 bar in the rears and lets do eett.
An idea of joining a drift night in a track (Rainy day) appears, but of course, my slow as a morse volvo can't do much things, specially if the corners are wide.
I have the B14-4E, and i have the idea of welding the diferential for that purpose... I've heard that the prop shaft is weak, but can be a problem to worry about when welding the dif? Even stock bone engine?
Welding dif, removing rear seats, removing this and that, and BUURN! 3.5 bar in the rears and lets do eett.
Re: Welding dif
Yeah it'll slide in the wet. Your prop might go or maybe not - it all depends on if your engine mounts are good. I say go for it and if it breaks, look into aligning your engine properly and buy a new prop.
Alternatively buy a new prop in advance of the day. I have most spares for my drift 360 that might break whilst using it for drifting.
Alternatively buy a new prop in advance of the day. I have most spares for my drift 360 that might break whilst using it for drifting.
Re: Welding dif
I see.
I do drift in wet without any problem, open dif 3 bar in rear, but wider corners obviously a bit of nightmare, unless is some old tarmac.
My engine mounts are not in the best shape, at low idle, the engine really shakes a looooot... I don't really understand much of transmission things.. prop shafts, half shafts, etc.
Also, the section in the top of the bellhousing, near the block, is dirty of oil, don't know if that means something... I need to replace my clutch, so as soon as i do that, i'll give all that stuff a good check. Clutch bearing also noisy.
I do drift in wet without any problem, open dif 3 bar in rear, but wider corners obviously a bit of nightmare, unless is some old tarmac.
My engine mounts are not in the best shape, at low idle, the engine really shakes a looooot... I don't really understand much of transmission things.. prop shafts, half shafts, etc.
Also, the section in the top of the bellhousing, near the block, is dirty of oil, don't know if that means something... I need to replace my clutch, so as soon as i do that, i'll give all that stuff a good check. Clutch bearing also noisy.
Re: Welding dif
Hmm if your engine is rocking at idle, you ARE going to break your prop taking it to a track. You're lucky if you don't. Drifting now and again on the street isn't that strenuous but something like a track day is a lot more intense than you can imagine - me and my friends took a 740 to a drift day at Buxton which had a slight oil leak. We didn't really realize the amount of time the car was actually being used on the track. In one day we ran the sump dry. An incredible amount of oil! But that's the amount of drifting that you end up doing.
I don't want to discourage you from drifting dude, everyone should just weld their diff and give it a go if they want to. But there's not much point if you're going to blow a prop in the first hour
I don't want to discourage you from drifting dude, everyone should just weld their diff and give it a go if they want to. But there's not much point if you're going to blow a prop in the first hour
Re: Welding dif
Yeah just invest in some new engine mounts to start - Dai sells them at classicswede for £32 for the 2 (i think!) and its as simple as 3 bolts each side to remove the mounts!
Just curious, does the 360 have a stronger transmission than the 340? Does it have UJ's? Seen 360's on a track more than 340s
Just curious, does the 360 have a stronger transmission than the 340? Does it have UJ's? Seen 360's on a track more than 340s
Re: Welding dif
It is stronger yeah, it doesn't have UJs but it has a torque tube. This is bolted to both the engine and gearbox so the whole thing is braced to the chassis. It's great IMO, much stiffer. There's a weak point on the bracket where it attaches to the gearbox inside, but that's normally ok if you maintain it properly.
And before you ask, no you transmission isn't transferable to the 340
And before you ask, no you transmission isn't transferable to the 340
Re: Welding dif
Speedy88 wrote:It is stronger yeah, it doesn't have UJs but it has a torque tube. This is bolted to both the engine and gearbox so the whole thing is braced to the chassis. It's great IMO, much stiffer. There's a weak point on the bracket where it attaches to the gearbox inside, but that's normally ok if you maintain it properly.
And before you ask, no you transmission isn't transferable to the 340
Haha if only - Already searched that one up earlier! I think for my next volvo I might get a 360 and turbo it - They look fun and a bit more reliable
Re: Welding dif
I understand. Thank you guys.
No welding for now, prioritys as engine mounts rises then
Just back from a Night Drift Touge, and holy shit That was awesome!
No welding for now, prioritys as engine mounts rises then
Just back from a Night Drift Touge, and holy shit That was awesome!