vario problems after every test
Re: vario problems after every test
I had vaguely similar problems on my car, but with patient electrical testing I worked out what the problem was (a dodgy earth on the kickdown switch on the accelerator cable). It sounds like your car has the kickdown circuit permanently engaged. By swapping your pipes over, you have stopped the kickdown side of the solenoid having the kickdown effect on the primary pulleys.
I think you need to trace the problem by looking at the wiring circuit diagrams in the manual for when the kickdown is in operation, and seeing if any of those connections are at fault.
Don't give up!
By the way, where in the country are you based?
I think you need to trace the problem by looking at the wiring circuit diagrams in the manual for when the kickdown is in operation, and seeing if any of those connections are at fault.
Don't give up!
By the way, where in the country are you based?
1977 Volvo 343 DL 1.4 Vario TUJ 247R
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
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- Posts: 96
- Joined: 16 Jan 2013 12:03 pm
Re: vario problems after every test
I am in Doncaster , south yorks.
I have earthed the green/yellow wire to the kickdwon switch and drove car... no difference.
not sure if I done this right. I unplug the wire and earth the wire coming from inside the dash board yes??? so this should check the switch??
trying so hard with this thing and only just got to work this morning. doing my head in!!
I love cars normally I do, but this is testing me
I have earthed the green/yellow wire to the kickdwon switch and drove car... no difference.
not sure if I done this right. I unplug the wire and earth the wire coming from inside the dash board yes??? so this should check the switch??
trying so hard with this thing and only just got to work this morning. doing my head in!!
I love cars normally I do, but this is testing me
Re: vario problems after every test
This is what my kickdown switch looks like:
From engine bay side:
From inside the car (sorry, not brilliant picture, hard to photograph!):
The problem I had on my car was that the spring on the kickdown switch itself had broken, and so wasn't making the connection, so the car was permanently in kickdown.
If you were nearby I'd offer to try to help, but I'm afraid Doncaster is a bit far, sorry!
From engine bay side:
From inside the car (sorry, not brilliant picture, hard to photograph!):
The problem I had on my car was that the spring on the kickdown switch itself had broken, and so wasn't making the connection, so the car was permanently in kickdown.
If you were nearby I'd offer to try to help, but I'm afraid Doncaster is a bit far, sorry!
1977 Volvo 343 DL 1.4 Vario TUJ 247R
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
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- Posts: 96
- Joined: 16 Jan 2013 12:03 pm
Re: vario problems after every test
no worries mate, thanks for the thought though...
but yes mine looks just the same... spring about the same so not broken.. just done electrical test again as I found out the metre I was using was knackered..
so results are.......
volt test on B side of emv - all switches constant 12v and does not change when the switches are active or inactive with ignition on.
volt test on A side of emv - no current at all, even with switches active or inactive - eninge running at 1800rpm in 'n'
so thie shows perm kickdown all the time, wether I flick a switch or not.
the kickdown side was hissing bad other day when I mentioned about having to swop the pipe round to get me home.. now... nothing.. does not suck on finger as test shows on here... I am now looking over the relay unit again.. got it in my hand and can see the slightest bit of corrosion under magnifier.. out comes the soldering iron again... see what happpens
but yes mine looks just the same... spring about the same so not broken.. just done electrical test again as I found out the metre I was using was knackered..
so results are.......
volt test on B side of emv - all switches constant 12v and does not change when the switches are active or inactive with ignition on.
volt test on A side of emv - no current at all, even with switches active or inactive - eninge running at 1800rpm in 'n'
so thie shows perm kickdown all the time, wether I flick a switch or not.
the kickdown side was hissing bad other day when I mentioned about having to swop the pipe round to get me home.. now... nothing.. does not suck on finger as test shows on here... I am now looking over the relay unit again.. got it in my hand and can see the slightest bit of corrosion under magnifier.. out comes the soldering iron again... see what happpens
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- Posts: 96
- Joined: 16 Jan 2013 12:03 pm
Re: vario problems after every test
soldered.... no change... no current other than permanent kickdown, and nothing on gear up
Re: vario problems after every test
Here is my thread about the problem I was having with my car: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =5&t=13660
My solution was simple in the end, but took a while to trace it. The problem with the broken kickdown switch meant that the gear up side of the solenoid was never activating.
It sounds like in yours there is something that is keeping the kickdown side of the solenoid permanently activated. Check all the components that form part of the kickdown circuit and make sure they are wired correctly, particularly LRH switch, brake switch, kickdown switch.
Anyone else have any better suggestions?
My solution was simple in the end, but took a while to trace it. The problem with the broken kickdown switch meant that the gear up side of the solenoid was never activating.
It sounds like in yours there is something that is keeping the kickdown side of the solenoid permanently activated. Check all the components that form part of the kickdown circuit and make sure they are wired correctly, particularly LRH switch, brake switch, kickdown switch.
Anyone else have any better suggestions?
1977 Volvo 343 DL 1.4 Vario TUJ 247R
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
1980 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 PGH 590V
1981 Volvo 345 DL 1.4 ECR 312W
1985 Volvo 340 DL 1.4 Vario B168 DTU
1982 Volvo 245 GLT 2.3 Auto VKN 137X
1997 Saab 900 Convertible P290 DDF and 2018 VW Tiguan S10 NPH
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- Posts: 96
- Joined: 16 Jan 2013 12:03 pm
Re: vario problems after every test
tried everything now and nothing. still no power to gear up solenoid
please if anyone can think of anything else post on here. desperate now
please if anyone can think of anything else post on here. desperate now
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- Posts: 3283
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008 02:29 am
Re: vario problems after every test
I'll stick the kettle on and review this thread in mo.
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- Posts: 96
- Joined: 16 Jan 2013 12:03 pm
Re: vario problems after every test
interesting find today on way to work.
funny noise when applying brake pedal at stand still... not evry time though.
pumped the pedal few times and drove off.... totally normal for about 2-3 mins and then revs metally again.
stopped car and pumped pedal again and same result but not for as long, only 30secs to a minute or so??
funny noise when applying brake pedal at stand still... not evry time though.
pumped the pedal few times and drove off.... totally normal for about 2-3 mins and then revs metally again.
stopped car and pumped pedal again and same result but not for as long, only 30secs to a minute or so??
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- Posts: 3283
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008 02:29 am
Re: vario problems after every test
So the suspicion for perma-kickdown is one of the three switches.CVT Diagnostic Manual wrote:These 3 switches are all on the same circuit, to check these we let the multimeter connected to connection 6 on the 8-pin connector of the tachometric relay
Operating one of the switches must result in a infinite resistance on the multimeter gauge, as soon as you release the switch the multimeter must say 0Ω again (compare this to holding the pins of the multimeter to each other and see how quick it goes back to 0Ω
- Low gear hold switch, switch on and off
- Brake pressure switch, apply the brakes hard
- Kickdown switch, at full throttle (not with the engine running!)
A temporary high resistance/sticking resistance after letting go of the switch is NOT good because this will cause it to stick while driving.
Besides mounting new switches if one of these are broken, you can also rule them out electrically as a temporary solution. For the brake pressure switch, interconnect the yellow and red wire with another wire. For the kickdown switch, go inside to the switch at the top of the accelerator pedal (remove black isolation panel under dashboard to get there if present), connect the yellow/green wire to an earth.
All three are on the same circuit. If any one of the three become "open", then the kickdown is operated. And when the kickdown side of the 4-way vacuum valve is energised, the other side cannot and will not be.
wiring_diagrams_76.jpg by macplaxton, on Flickr
wiring_diagrams_77.jpg by macplaxton, on Flickr
So rule them out electrically first before diving for new switches:
Study the diagrams. They show three conditions. By-pass each one of the switches with a temporary wire going to a good earth. It will show which switch is dodgy. It's either going to be your throttle or high pressure switch.
From the last find, start with bypassing the 20 bar switch on the brake master cylinder. Join the two wires (one yellow and one red) together with something (like a short link wire with a male spade terminal either end) and report back. If it's still playing up, then turn attention to the throttle cable.