Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Hello everyone! Recently our "drift" car broke down. We have found out that the timing belt has moved 3 teeth further. We have measured compression to find the following numbers: 11, 11, 11, 4. After consulting some renault mechanic, he told us that probably when the timing belt jumped, the valves suffered some damage. So far we are looking at the most common path: buying a used 1.7 head and replacing it. The only problem is that its not easy to find a decent 1.7 engine for scrapping. Coming from hondas, there are plenty of options to attach heads from other engines(e.g. B16 block + B20 head and etc.). Is it the same with these Renault engine series?
What is more, we are a little bit stuck with removing the head. We have released the timing belt, the cover and the head bolts. The head moves slightly, though to remove it completely we need(?) to release the exhaust manifold. What is the easiest way of doing it? So far we are thinking about deattaching the piping from the manifold and taking the head out together with it since it is really hard to release the bolts that are attached to the head.
P.S. We are really really amateur when it comes to engine mechanics, so any tips and opinions regarding our issues would be more than welcome
What is more, we are a little bit stuck with removing the head. We have released the timing belt, the cover and the head bolts. The head moves slightly, though to remove it completely we need(?) to release the exhaust manifold. What is the easiest way of doing it? So far we are thinking about deattaching the piping from the manifold and taking the head out together with it since it is really hard to release the bolts that are attached to the head.
P.S. We are really really amateur when it comes to engine mechanics, so any tips and opinions regarding our issues would be more than welcome
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
If its not coming off you need to remove more bolts no matter how hard. These are one of the skills you need to work on old cars. Wd40, heat, angle grinders, hammer on smaller sockets, 6 sided sockets etc.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
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Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
You will need to take off the inlet and exhaust manifold as one unit.
The head can be repaired with a new valve and guide
If not heads are fairly well available over here if you need a complete head
The head can be repaired with a new valve and guide
If not heads are fairly well available over here if you need a complete head
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Hello guys, thanks for your replies. I have managed to take the head off and gave it to a guy who puts them back to life. Yesterday i have re-fitted everything back to its place, but the car wont start...The fuel comes in the carb, the starter is spinning but nothing is happening. After trying to start it for 5 mins, i pulled the plugs out to clean them off fuel, though they were clean(I guess fuel is not reaching them?). Spent 4 hours trying to figure out whats up, sprayed brake cleaner in etc. and yet no luck.... So far i managed to think of two problems: Either i messed something up putting the timing belt on or there is something wrong with the carb. Are there any schemes/guides for 1.7 belt fitment? Because i find it very hard to put it back, i can barely see the marks on the pulleys.
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Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
You lock the crank by fitting a 8mm bar through the blanking plug in the side of the block
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
If you have put the belt on wrong you might have bent the valves again, does It sound 'normal' when its turning on the starter? The belt does not need to be in the right position, but crank and cam must be aligned perfectly before putting the belt on. They should also be approximately aligned before putting the head on. If you are not sure get someone else to check.
The engine should start with a dash of fuel chucked down the carb barrel, have you got the plugs leads on correctly, are you getting a spark?
You need to get everything together perfectly otherwise it won't work.
The engine should start with a dash of fuel chucked down the carb barrel, have you got the plugs leads on correctly, are you getting a spark?
You need to get everything together perfectly otherwise it won't work.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Update:
Yesterday i tried putting the belt back on for about 15 times. I think the valves are ok, because after every re-fitment i manually turn the crank to see if the valves are not bending. Probably tried all the possible ways i could think of. The current problem we are facing: When we try to start the engine, it blows the fuel out of the carb every few seconds, plugs get wet, there was some smoke inside when i took them out for drying. Any clue what could be the case? The plugs are ok, compression seem to be ok. I will upload a video in a few hours that i have made yesterday.
P.S. I managed to pull out a picutre of the timing belt scheme from Contitech. Does the position of the dash on the crank pulley matters in this picture or is it completely random?
Yesterday i tried putting the belt back on for about 15 times. I think the valves are ok, because after every re-fitment i manually turn the crank to see if the valves are not bending. Probably tried all the possible ways i could think of. The current problem we are facing: When we try to start the engine, it blows the fuel out of the carb every few seconds, plugs get wet, there was some smoke inside when i took them out for drying. Any clue what could be the case? The plugs are ok, compression seem to be ok. I will upload a video in a few hours that i have made yesterday.
P.S. I managed to pull out a picutre of the timing belt scheme from Contitech. Does the position of the dash on the crank pulley matters in this picture or is it completely random?
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Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Not sure about that without looking. The crank is the easy part to make sure you have right. Have you been using a dowel to lock the crank? If not there is a blanking plug on the oil filter side of the block. Undo that plug and you can lock the crank in the correct position with a 8mm round bar (do not use a drill bit)
All you then need to do is line the mark up on the cam sprocket. It sounds like you might be 180 out
All you then need to do is line the mark up on the cam sprocket. It sounds like you might be 180 out
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Instructions are in the green book section
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7260
Looks like you need the belt marks, which is annoying, don't know why there are no crank marks on the block, but I remember similar problems on the b200s.
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7260
Looks like you need the belt marks, which is annoying, don't know why there are no crank marks on the block, but I remember similar problems on the b200s.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
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- Posts: 3283
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008 02:29 am
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
It matters as CS has to be in correct sync with CA.Sarunasu wrote:Does the position of the dash on the crank pulley matters in this picture or is it completely random?
CA is driven at half the speed of CS, so if you turn CS two revolutions, then then CA will be back to it's starting position.
Dayco tech notes explain the dashes better! (click images for larger view)
TI0094EN-1 by macplaxton, on Flickr
TI0094EN-2 by macplaxton, on Flickr
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Thank you guys for your help! We put the belt in the right place and after few unsuccesful tries we decided to take a look at the wiring... And we found out that we messed up the wiring on the distributor...After putting the wires in place we have managed to start it up with some carb cleaner, because it barely works on normal fuel. So plans for today: Check the carb, weld & replace the old diff. Hopefuly we can get it out for a spin in the evening!
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Hello again! After putting some hours into the Volvo it started running like a charm. I drove round 20-30 kms with it until one nasty thing...I left it idling while opening the garage door and the timing belt went off. The engine was running low rpms, but i guess it still bent the valves and ruined our new head I am already tired of this engine, if the head will be damaged i will start looking for a reliable swap.
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
Problem with:-
Belt, pulleys, their alignment, or belt tension was set far too loose.
Sure you used the correct belt and tensioners ? (don't forget early B172Ks used a 124 tooth belt and different idler and tensioner).
How did you tension the belt - with the Volvo type mechanical plunger gauge, or the Renault electronic strain gauge?
Mac.
Belt, pulleys, their alignment, or belt tension was set far too loose.
Sure you used the correct belt and tensioners ? (don't forget early B172Ks used a 124 tooth belt and different idler and tensioner).
How did you tension the belt - with the Volvo type mechanical plunger gauge, or the Renault electronic strain gauge?
Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
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Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
I'll hazard a guess: wing and a prayer?mac wrote:How did you tension the belt - with the Volvo type mechanical plunger gauge, or the Renault electronic strain gauge?
Re: Volvo 340 1.7 engine issues
It was correctly tensioned, i confused you by saying that it came off. It actually got ripped, because it was in a shitty condition... We wanted to use it just for seeing if the engine works properly, since we were waiting for our new belt to be delivered. Anyways, we fitted the new belt, by turning the key we can only hear the starter spinning, no signs of engine crank what so ever... Not sure if i will find motivation to fix the head again, rather get a new, less problematic non-Renault engine :/