at the end of this thread my prop won't rattle any more!

[CBA]

So, there is play/wear/lash all over the shop.

Engine bangs in its mounts on startup sometimes.

Gearbox is soundly held at least, so is the axle.


What exactly has/is worn about the rear of the prop?

Why do I keep thinking 'Oversize Bearings'..

[bogbasic]

Hello CBA, you've obviously got the carb so well sorted its trying to wind you up with something else. Guess engine mounts are fairly cheap and available (at least from Dai) and will help, duh, that's as much as I can suggest right now. Others will know how to tell if the rubber in the prop shaft is going, going, gone... and maybe if you get some stiff new mounts, it'll bring on something else in the prop shaft department ;-0

I would think engine mounts as I don't think they were ever replaced in the time I had the car and 230k is a lorra miles...

Oversize bearings..... is you suggesting that the geezers wot repaired my gearbox put some dodgy bearings in? If you are indeed suggesting exactly that, then I have to tell you that.... I can quite believe it.

Wot about clutch bearing?? Doesn't that give quite a lot of rattle and knock?? I know that one was replaced at some point....

[classicswede]

The bearing the bellhousing is also a possible. At the moment they can not be replaced or at least it would be very difficult. I have found a supply for the bearing and am looking at a couple of options on how to make the rubber outer part.

[CBA]

No bog, your garage wasn't that good to repair your box, or even replace it.


I'm just thinking of ways to take up wear.
Oversize bearings in the races.


To clarify:
I'm fairly sure this is the original box.

[CBA]

As for the carb, I'm modding the 2nd barrell with an extra air valve(from your carb)
With the egr blocked, it needs the existing air valve almost fully open.
With both installed I expect it to be happy at factory setting (2 turns out from the stop on both).
Once the thermostat is replaced I expect further improvements

And I've got one other trick, an 'offset' pickup for the ignition.
Got to check the renix advance map, I want the extra degrees back.
The thing will operate when 2nd throttle starts to open by carb-mounted microswitch that swaps from normal position pickup to 'advanced' pickup!

Nifty? Its very 'brutal' method but I think it will give properly cheerful results.

If there's a good improvement I'll be aiming fortotal ignition replacement, just trying this method since its 'free'. What does an un-de-tuned 1.4 put out?


Timing re-advanced- That's the factory detuning removed yeah?

-

My crank-fume-lubricated carb is ace! Throttle stays slick all the time, engine bay smells right too. Puts underbonnet rust to sleep. Crankcase pressure is zero, instead of the significant no of millibars(presumed) it was 'stock' - less oil leakage observed. And it isn't eating its own waste!, it's using it for lube+perfume instead.

[Chris_C]

Doesn't matter if it is the original box castings, as long as the service items are replaced.

Engine end, holding up the clutch shaft, there is the spigot bearing in the back of the crank (sealed ball race, free with cornflakes) and then the sealed ball bearing Dai talks of above in the bearing carrier of the bell housing. This is also a sealed ball race bearing, the part number on the side again makes you think this is super easily available. The bearing itself is, again pretty much free with cornflakes, but Daf in their wisdom have placed this in an rubber moulding machine and given it a nice rubber coated outer. These are one of Chris' pet "we need to work out a solution" parts, as they are *all* knackered to varying degrees, hence the characteristic 340 prop rattle in idle. Some are less knackered than others, I spent a fair chunk of time trying to find a more betterer one.

Other end, the gearbox input shaft is... I can't remember, mind blank. Someone else will remember!

[CBA]

Bog, I've got the receipt for that gearbox.
If the car is still 'matching numbers' you've got a solid case against that garage.
If I manage to scare them into refunding you, which I'd like to gleefully attempt, regrettably-not with a lorry-jack-handle... You'll have £s!

[CBA]

When I start diagnosing the prop I'll grab the receipt scan over the numbers and through the books.
If I'm correct I'll give him a bell from the orlop deck

First I ask if he keeps records from old jobs. Nice+friendly..
With either possible answer I'm locked and loaded. Mwahahahahaaa

That's criminal, civil, trading standards, vosa? . Everyone will have a chew of his arse before I'm finished. Or he can refund you. And still get his arse chewed.

Many hundred quid refund??... Sounds leather-interior-ey

[bogbasic]

Chillax man. I was happy with what they did at the time - they did a part-refurb and a grit blast, new seals, etc. I had to work quite hard to persuade any garage to do anything to the gearbox because all the ones I took the car to said it was fine and it was just my psychosis that was making it seem bad... ;-0

[CBA]

Mwahahahahahahahahaaa!



I've changed everything, still got a flat spot.

One thing is original still- the accellerator pump. After that, if it still bogs at low-revs+moderate load its bigger jets it NEEDS. So it must be the pump. Has to be the diaphragm. Has to....

[CBA]

It won't get to halfway on temp either.

Unless in bad traffic etc.

Like thermostat was opening too soon. Thermostat is spot on though.

Fan kicks in just past half on temp as it should.

Using Heater will cool the engine down to naff all.



Is my engine simply running cool through age? Old (80k) fords barely registered any temp..

Or could the waterpump be doing something unorthodox?

Or blocked gallery?



Grrrrrrr!!


Can someone please mri+xray+infrared scan my car?

[Chris_C]

Thermostat is spot on though.

Are you basing that on the fan kicking in, or have you done a pan of water test? The fan sensor has nothing to do with the stat

[bogbasic]

CBA man it'll be the temp dial in the dash - happened to me on an escort which had perfect engine temperature but the dial read lower and lower as the years went by. I changed the dial and it suddenly gave the right reading evermore.... from memory, the dial has a resistance wire for heating a bimetallic springy thingy or something which gets tired so it doesn't bend enough for a given temperature...

[CBA]

Got properly trippy zebedee effect, especially uphill.

Have I set the float too low?

[macplaxton]

It won't get to halfway on temp either.

Try a fresh sender unit first.