Problems with CVT. Please help

B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
NO parts requests here, please use our V3M BUY & SELL corner
Post Reply
51rus
Posts: 6
Joined: 03 Jul 2015 02:15 pm

Problems with CVT. Please help

Post by 51rus » 03 Jul 2015 03:29 pm

Hello my friends.
I don't khow what don't working.

I have volvo 340 1.4 '84. Before car have manual gearbox. Now i set variomatic. Variomatic worling. But electric don't worling.

I change all transistors and microcxem 4069. I soldered diod. But this don't working.
When 1800 p.m or more this device not sends a signal to the valve.
1,3 - valve
2,7 - valve
4 - "-"
5 - "+"
8 - pulse from the coil (but taxo worling from the coil)

I don't undestand. Coil have a pulse from this devise. All details in devise rechange. But don't working :(
First valve have potential (14.4 when engine working). Second valve don't have potential. When 1000 r.p.m and when 2000 r.p.m and when 3000 r.p.m only same.

Please help.
Sorry for my bad English
SAM_0001.JPG
Boshe
Attachments
SAM_0002.JPG
SAM_0003.JPG
coil

User avatar
bogbasic
Posts: 1861
Joined: 21 Nov 2004 10:12 pm
Location: New Malden, Surrey.
Contact:

Re: Problems with CVT. Please help

Post by bogbasic » 04 Jul 2015 01:22 pm

Hello my friend, I don't know the electronics at all but the general rule is that its the capacitors which go first (but I am sure you knew that!). How did you get the components? If I try to do anything like that I have to order a minimum of 100 of each component and then it rapidly becomes more expensive than getting a new old car or whatever it is I am trying to repair....
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

User avatar
volvodspec
Posts: 1921
Joined: 06 Dec 2008 09:35 pm
Location: Netherlands.
Contact:

Re: Problems with CVT. Please help

Post by volvodspec » 12 Jul 2015 10:17 am

51rus wrote:First valve have potential (14.4 when engine working).
that's the problem

there can only be 1 solenoid active in this system, because the first valve is activated the second valve will never be.

this first valve is for the kickdown, so you will probably experience very high rpm at any speed.

for diagnosting the real problem for the kickdown you need to look at this part of the CVT diagnostic manual:
Now we check a few connections of the 8-pin connector, note the angular sides to make sure you take the right pin!
Image

With a multimeter, we do this test with the – wire to the negative pole on the battery.
- Connection 4: earth (resistance measurement, ideal is 0Ω)
- Connection 5: feed (volts measurement, ideal is the same as the battery
- Connection6: switched earth of the kickdown circuit (resistance measurement, ideal is 0Ω)

The kickdown circuit consists of 3 switches, these are the low gear hold switch, the brake pressure (20Bar) switch and the kickdown switch (at the accelerator pedal)

The low gear hold switch is located near the gear lever and easy to find. The other switches are found here (note that the car’s on the pics are left hand drive; for right hand drive it looks the same but is located slightly differently!)
Image

These 3 switches are all on the same circuit, to check these we let the multimeter connected to connection 6 on the 8-pin connector of the tachometric relay
Operating one of the switches must result in a infinite resistance on the multimeter gauge, as soon as you release the switch the multimeter must say 0Ω again (compare this to holding the pins of the multimeter to each other and see how quick it goes back to 0Ω
- Low gear hold switch, switch on and off
- Brake pressure switch, apply the brakes hard
- Kickdown switch, at full throttle (not with the engine running!)

A temporary high resistance/sticking resistance after letting go of the switch is NOT good because this will cause it to stick while driving.
Besides mounting new switches if one of these are broken, you can also rule them out electrically as a temporary solution. For the brake pressure switch, interconnect the yellow and red wire with another wire. For the kickdown switch, go inside to the switch at the top of the accelerator pedal (remove black isolation panel under dashboard to get there if present), connect the yellow/green wire to an earth.

Post Reply