360 carby fuel supply

[360beast]

I found my B200E 360 1986 with the 10:1 compression would buck at a constant speed and would pink if I ran it on 95 (before the switch to e10) so I started using 99 from tesco and it ran perfectly.

All Volvos from 1976 apart from the mitsubishi engine 1.8 GDI in the V/S40 are compatible with e10 and I'm pretty sure someone said they can run on a lot higher ethanol content happily before needing any mods doing to the fuel system.

I'm running my 940 turbo on 95 at the moment (I usually use 99) but with the cost of petrol at the moment it cost me £97 to fill it up a couple of weeks ago and I'll get about 350 miles from that. Good thing I barely use it so that will last me a month!

[bogbasic]

Cool. Thanks for the info. I relied on mac a lot for debugging the carburettor last year. All such a shame.

Meanwhile, back to refitting the newly hammered in 360 exhaust.





I struggle and strain it back into place with one or two bits of spongy tin foil to dampen the knocks, hopefully. Yes, it's looking pretty well hammered-in but I think its exaggerated by the photographs.







Haven't tested it under rear-seat load yet, but sounded less thrumming when I started it, so ever hopeful. Still there's more scope for improvements if needed, I hope.

[SteveP]

Hopefully that's fixed it, nothing more annoying than a knocking exhaust! I ended up having to get a stainless one made for the GLT as the aftermarket ones are so ill fitting nowadays, but it's not a cheap option!

[bogbasic]

Thank you. Yes, I am hoping it's ok now. The rubber hanger at the front of the silencer is part-used and skinnier than the previous one (which broke when I removed it) and that might have to be replaced soon as its cracking-up a bit.

Anyway, a complete change, it's been a Johnson Evinrude Seahorse 2 HP outboard with no compression today. Thankfully, not mine.





Just trying to make out that I'm doing something and that I know what I'm doing!

[bogbasic]

Been a bit inhibited by the petrol pump lockdown but it's getting better. Replaced the missing rear mudflap on Deep Blue and did some rather poor paintwork on the 360, still it won't show too much!


There is an important point to make here which is that after not being started for 2 - 3 weeks, the 360 was in 'refusing to start' mode so this had to be the ultimate test of the non-return valve. Yo! Persistence paid off and after about 12-15 turns of the key, she started. In previous years, she would have resolutely refused to start till the battery ran flat.

[bogbasic]

Yo, ho, ho! Hammering in the exhaust has fixed it under load.

So what can I fix next?

Heater always partly on.

Loose / slack gear lever.

[TasMan]

Always something else to fix lol !!

I thought you had sorted the gear lever earlier with the weld repairs at the torque tube ? (sounds a bugger of a job).

Thats my 360 laid up now. Rightly or wrongly I brimmed the tank and added 'Stabil' fuel stabiliser and allowed the engine to run for 10 - 15 mins to properly circulate. I will fire it up every week or two to keep things fresh before its back on the road next year. Thats what I did last winter and it seemed fine.

Just need to find time for some of the jobs I never got done from last year's list !!
Cheers D

[bogbasic]

Great work! The gear change is ok now. I've got the hang of getting reverse but when the lever is at its relaxed position in any gear it can be wobbled like mad. Much more than on the other 300's I have driven. Purely by coincidence, I'm sure ;-0, this is the only one which I had the gearbox open. The selector plate is a bit fiddly to put back and I may have not connected it right to a spring which is supposed to tension it. As it's almost 20 years ago, I might change the gearbox oil in the next year or so and check the little spring which I think I didn't connect properly. You can tighten it apparently. Ta jc

[TasMan]

Good the gear change is ok now, trying to think how much slop my lever has, probably just average for a 300 I expect.
Gearchanges are pretty 'agricultural' to say the least. I think its a combination of the extended linkage to the rear and a momentum effect of the torque tube when the clutch disengages. I think you just need to give it an extra bit of time and some mechanical sympathy to get a nice change
I find reverse can be a bugger. Usually fine to reverse out the garage first go, but when I've done that and stopped to put the door down and then go from neutral back to reverse it can be a sod. Seems to work better if you go from neutral to 3rd and then over to reverse, maybe settles the synchro down or something like that ?
I have the gearbox and diff oil to do as well, again just to find the time. Work and two young kids put the brakes on a lot of tinkering time ! Cheers D

[SteveP]

I was about to recommend the third to reverse trick, it's pretty common - I tend to do it by default now as it seemed to make for a smoother gear change to reverse in a couple of previous 300's!

[TasMan]

Thats interesting Steve, seems a common trait then. Reminds me I should check my clutch adjustment is within what the book says as well. Cheers Dave

[bogbasic]

Cool work. 3rd to reverse - I'll try it!! Ta jc

[SteveP]

For reference Dave, if you have any issues with removing the gearbox filler plug (it can be tight and a bugger to remove on a 360 due to proximity of the tank). I've just replaced the side cover gasket on my GLT and it's just about possible to remove the side cover without dropping any of the drivetrain - JUST! The springs for the selector plate/cover don't tend to go flying off so it's not too bad a job.

[TasMan]

Thanks Steve, will bear that in mind, I noticed the space was at a premium around the box when I was doing the fuel pump.
My MOT man has offered me use of a lift so I might take him up on that and wait till next year to do it, will see how it goes, might make the job easier having it up in the air. Meantime the engine oil and diff oil shouldn't be too bad (he says).

Yes Jon, the old 3rd to reverse manouvre seems to work well for me, just take it easy and it should snick in fine. If you can't find it grind it

Dave

[bogbasic]

I really messed it up, sorry! I tried to get reverse after going into 3rd and I couldn't get it at all. I realised afterwards that I was pushing the lever down instead of up. Anyway, I was convinced it wouldn't go into reverse at all so I got out and pushed it, which was very foolish cos it was on a slope and it duly ran away, knocking down two wooden posts, one of which made a hole in the rear valance. You couldn't make it up. Just an old man trying an new trick ;-0 ;-0

Bizarrely the only thing that stopped it was a post that got wedged under one of the rear springs. As a result I couldn't move the car out of the mud because the rear wheel was spinning in the air ;-0 ;-0

Daft, what an oaf. Anyway, I'll take it back to the welder as there is tons of rust around the rear valance and spare wheel well that needs looking at and anything that galvanises me into action is a good thing.

Sorry to be such a div.