Rough idle 1.4 (i read the sticky)

[fatuglypaapa1]

Hi again, i've driven the car for 1000km now and it has been super smooth. Just your average 340 experience.

However, two times now it has stalled on me. What happens is that I am driving at around 40-50km/h, engine is warm, 30c+ outside and I can almost feel the heat from the engine, but the temp sender is broken so I have no clue if it is too warm or too cold, all I know is the thermostat is opening up and cooling the engine.

Either way, I am driving along at 40-50km/h and I release the throttle and I put the car in neutral as I want to just glide into my parking space the last 100 meters. What happens is that the car will start to seriously jump around with a rough idle, and it will get worse as the speed lowers and then it just stalls. I am able to restart the car easy and there are no problems, but what could this be?

Some idle solenoid? Air leaks? Or is it just not getting enough fuel because it runs smooth if I just hit the throttle a teeny bit. Checked all the hoses and the carb bottom, seems to be no apparent leaks or that the carb needs to be tightened. Cheers for any tips. My suspicion is that the engine might be running a bit too hot and that there are some vacuum leaks.

[bogbasic]

Nice one. You are right suspect the idle solenoid. It's easy to check if it works reliably by disconnecting and reconnecting it with the ignition on and you should hear a click. I suspect though that it is fuel supply and air leaks in the hoses. You need to check all the rubber hoses and clips especially around the tank at the back and the filler cap behind the boot trim. It might be that the idle speed or mixture are a bit low.

[fatuglypaapa1]

Check idle solenoid

Check leaks in hoses

see if adjusting the idle or mixture fixes it.

Thank you Bog again for helping me out. I am not suspecting any hose leaks as I cannot hear or see any apparent leaks with it running, but have not checked the rear hoses, will do this.

I will check the idle solenoid as well, and if it clicks that means it works?

And lastly I will adjust the carb, I have actually not done this properly yet and I know for sure that this has not been adjusted in the last 10 years. Might explain why I am using around 1L/10km no matter how I drive.


I got to say though Bog, I really do appreciate the time you spend in this forum, even now when it feels like the forum is a bit more stale than before. Your wisdom is appreciated.

[fatuglypaapa1]

Nice one. You are right suspect the idle solenoid. It's easy to check if it works reliably by disconnecting and reconnecting it with the ignition on and you should hear a click. I suspect though that it is fuel supply and air leaks in the hoses. You need to check all the rubber hoses and clips especially around the tank at the back and the filler cap behind the boot trim. It might be that the idle speed or mixture are a bit low.

After checking that the solenoid worked and that there were no apparent leaks I adjusted the carb and it worked way better. Super smooth. However, after changing the thermostat the temp gauge now works. So the sender was never broken and the engine has been running cold. After I adjusted the carb with a cold engine it ran perfectly fine, now when the engine is running at correct temps the issue is back. I would assume that a carb adjustment for an engine that is running cold is different to one that is running warm, so hopefully adjusting it again will fix the problem.

Will also block off the EGR valve this weekend and take some starting gas and spray around all hoses and see if the engine reacts.

[bogbasic]

Cool work.

[fatuglypaapa1]

Rough idling solved by just adjusting the carb again. Runs great. However I am unsure if I am doing it correctly or not. I twisted the idle mixture screw all the way in then backed out 2 turns with the idle at 1000rpm-ish. Then I just adjusted the mixture until the engine ran smooth and dropped around 50 revs.



But of course the starter has decided to act up on me. I will need to try and activate it 2-3 times before it engages, I can hear the solenoid going off and I noticed yesterday that the starter was slower than normal when turning over. Battery is not the culprit.

Took a look at the connections and saw that basically all wires were rusted and corroded on the starter, looks pretty bad if I am honest. Just took some electrical spray and sprayed all of the wires and their connections and it started on the first try for 3-4 starts. Will see how it holds up but I def believe it is the connections that is the culprit.

[bogbasic]

Cool.