hi

i have just bought a 340 and i was going to put either the 2.0 or 2.3 turbo lump in.

i have searched but i cant find any info to help with this - can it be done? if so who has done it and how hard was it? what extra parts do i need.

we have a front ended 360 which we can use for parts what do we need off this etc

any help would be great

thanks

s

Yes it can be done. You mentioned that you have also 360 is it whole car or what? It would be easier to put a 2.0 or 2.3 Volvo lump in that 360 shell. But if you really want to put a 2 liter or 2.3 liter Volvo lump in 340. You'll need to take engine mounts, oil sump from the 2 liter 360 engine and oil pump also then bellhousing, torquetube, gearbox.
There is more parts to change but i don't remember what or i don't know what it is translated to english.
So other who know better these things can continue.

Btw. with standard gearbox torque limit is 420 Nm. And with 440 Nm. that gearbox will blow apart almost instantly.

Also with those Nm-figures stock open diff is known to fail quite often, small gears blow in pieces with large amounts of torque.. Welded diff holds much better though, LSD or locker would be good but those are veeery rare (I've seen one), Volvo 240 diff locker and gears can be modded to fit in 300-series diff casing though.

Tourinki pretty much said all the necessary parts involved, also clutch from 360 is of course needed and rear brake drums are larger in 360 than in 340.

If you are fitting a redblock turbo engine from 200, 700, or 900-series, you will also need those parts, which Tourinki listed, from the 360 engine as the engine mounts, oilsump, oilpump etc.. are different in the redblocks in bigger Volvos so you need 360 ones to make the engine fit.

Just a note, so called dual mass flywheel used in 900-series with M90 gearbox won't fit in 300-series bellhousing without machining, but there's no point using that flywheel.

Fuse wrote:Welded diff holds much better though, LSD or locker would be good but those are veeery rare (I've seen one), Volvo 240 diff locker and gears can be modded to fit in 300-series diff casing though.

Do you have any idea on how this is done, or where i can find out..?

Welding or the locker diff?

Welding is quite easy to do. Just reomve the cover and weld the diff.

Fuse has posted info on fitting LSB before so search his posts

i know about welding, i was talking about the Diff locker. I haven't seen or spoke about one, so i dont know much. Are they like LSD's? Or manually have to be locked?

Brandon93 wrote:i know about welding, i was talking about the Diff locker. I haven't seen or spoke about one, so i dont know much. Are they like LSD's? Or manually have to be locked?

http://trampdrift.co.uk/index.php?optio ... Itemid=111

edit: my bad, mis-read your post. good guide still anyway

riggghhhtt, must be annoying with all the questions but.

i am planning a euro road trip, to gatebil (norway) from the uk. speaking to my uncle who is quite clued up on his cars, reckons that the diff will either melt, or blow up from the heat if it was welded.
has anyone gone on a long journey with a welded diff, or had an experience like the ones of mentioned?

i can't think any reasons why that would happen; unless you leave the oil out.

actually, welded diff will be colder on straight ends. why; there's less places where friction heats up the oil; the entire set of diff sprockets doesn't move.

so a 3000 mile road trip in a 340, possibly with an f7p engine, and welded diff, could be possible?

i should of used my initiative, seeing as im a semi qualified mechanic

thanks man

only thing you might possibly have problems with is the fuel economy
allthough i don't know what the F7P/R's do MPG wise, i have something else under the bonnet hehehe

yeah erm, thats thought of alot lol. its probably pretty damn poor. i have looked at your b14 turbs project, looks schwwwweeeet mate. it been expensive? im gonna practise with the 1.4, if it does spin up and step out?