removal of prob help

Post by **bwizz** » 27 Oct 2007 03:49 pm

hi guys,
a mobile mechanic (well he called him self that) removed my 360 gearbox on my drive as it went bang. well that was over a month ago! and wont return/answer my calls. i have called trading standards ect.. but i still have a 360 on my drive doing nothing but getting dirty.
so i have decided to have a bash at it my self

i had a good look around and and it seemed preety easy and then.... on further looking around i have found that he didnt undo the coupling that joines the prob to the box and used a crow bar ( i still have his crow bar ) to slide the gearboox off the prop/coupling

in doing so it looks like the prop has moved towards the back of the car too. i am guessing there is one at each end whitch is why i cant pull the prop off nor can i see through the prop tube carse the prop has seemed to move? i have a few questions and need some help and ANY advice you people can offer.

1. i have undone the 4 nuts where the prop cover?/sleeve?/tube? joines the bellhousing and it is free but cant pull it back far enough to pull off the bolts to drop it off

2. the gear leaver seems to be in the way and unsure how to remove it to drop the prop tube.

i am temted to get rid of the car but being a 3door 360glt with a UNleaking sunroof it seems a shame and i really want to put this back on the road.

i am in east london if that help in anyway

please help me save ths from the place in the sky...

Billy

Post by **petefarrell360** » 27 Oct 2007 07:53 pm

Hi there! It seems like a cowboy has been at it then! Most annoying for you that he won't answer or return your calls. Does the coupling still line up with the holes in the torque tube where the rubber grommet goes? The idea is to look through those and undo it there, them it will slide out. I'd imagine your 'mobile mechanic' failed to notice these and has simply forced it off, possibly breaking it.

There isn't a coupling the other end AFAIK, I'm trying to remember how it all works and fits together! Is the gearbox end of the prop set back into the torque tube, that the input shaft of the gearbox fits into the torque tube then meets the other part of the prop?

I seem to think it's fitted in there bearings or something, so it can move, so it's a case of pushing it back to the correct position, providing the bearings aren't damaged and are still seated in the correct positions.

Have you got a Haynes manual, if not pick one up cheap from Ebay. That'll aid your repair.

The gear lever should have been disconnected from the gearbox, then from memory doesn't interfere too much if held up out of the way.

Someone who remembers the job better than I do should be along soon!

Pete

Post by **pettaw** » 28 Oct 2007 11:49 am

you need to unbolt the two bolts that hold the gearlever to the torque tube, then you should be able to undo the four nuts that hold it to the bell housing. You might have to remove the exhaust front downpipe too but I can't remember.

Post by **bwizz** » 29 Oct 2007 04:27 pm

ok guys, weather permitting i will have another look. Thanks for the advice

Post by **SteveP** » 29 Oct 2007 04:35 pm

Nice one for having a go yourself... definitely worth having a go at for a 3 door GLT!

Post by **bwizz** » 31 Oct 2007 12:34 pm

bit of a update.

Have had another look at it this morning befor work. Due to work and faimly matters i dont have the time nor the space to do this. I have been offerd a good cleen 240 at a good price so im going to sell up. I havent got a price in mind but as said its a 3door gtl with no leaks from the sun roof, mot'ed till aguest 2008 and taxed till feb 2008. any idear of a price from you guys would be nice. Spare gearbox available too. Im sorry to do this but i just have to..

Billy

Post by **Chris_C** » 31 Oct 2007 01:11 pm

Price really depends on the phase of the moon as well as condition tbh, where abouts are you?

EDIT: Read above posts... East london, I'll learn to read before speaking...

Post by **SteveP** » 31 Oct 2007 01:19 pm

The immobility of the thing will bring the price down, unfortunately... but yeah, condition and rust status will be most important

Post by **bwizz** » 31 Oct 2007 02:07 pm

humm rush... A little on the wheel arch drivers side ans rist stain mark on drivers door under the trim. Had 1real sill welded for mot. id like 250 tbh. what do you think? I have done/replaced oil every 3000miles, genuine volvo steering coupling. i have a spear boot lid to go with it too.

Post by **SteveP** » 31 Oct 2007 02:40 pm

Worth more like half that tbh....

Post by **bwizz** » 31 Oct 2007 04:54 pm

even with mot till aguest and tax till feb?

also just rememberd i had a few gaskets replaced too

Post by **classicswede** » 01 Nov 2007 01:53 pm

I think Steve is on about the right mark. The tax does have some value but not on the car as it is imobile.

Post by **pettaw** » 01 Nov 2007 02:37 pm

Yeah, Volvo 300s are worth more nowadays, as the price of scrap metal is higher and yours will be worth slightly more as it is a sought after model. A 3 door 360 even with a small bit of rust will be worth 350-400 to the right person.

Unfortunately that's for a 360 that's working. Yours isn't and most people won't want to fix up a 300 when they can buy another one that's working. You'll be lucky to get 50 quid for it I'm afraid, although even at that price you might struggle to shift it.

Post by **SteveP** » 01 Nov 2007 02:49 pm

Get some pics up and see if you have any takers... if not - Ebay definitely, there will be people who will want it - especially as its a 3 door GLT

Post by **bwizz** » 02 Nov 2007 01:32 pm

anorther update. I have just been givin the service repair manual AND onwerns workshop manual

Anybody want to help get a 360 back on the road (im sure i we could arrange something and hey would make a greate post on here and i get to meet some VERY kind people on here) or on hand for some advice tomorrow?