1.4 340 running shakey? READ ME FIRST FFS!

B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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pettaw
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Post by pettaw » 12 Feb 2005 04:12 pm

I doubt its icing. Even with a full cold air intake, and a long cruise on the motorway in cold weather, I would think the carb preheating flange would be enough to stop icing. Particularly as on the 1.4 its the superior type using the coolant circulating rather than the puny electric one on the 1.7.

wjp01908
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Post by wjp01908 » 28 Mar 2005 10:17 pm

UPDATE

If your`re getting problems and all is nice and tight on top and around the carb, whip the top off and check the accelerator pump injector is not loose. It`s the one in the middle between the 2 barrels.

Had problems on Friday on setting off for a weekend away - lurching, no acceleration etc. Carb seemed OK but took top off to blow out main jets and there it was flopping around like a..... floppy thing . 10 mins later back on the road!

Will

pettaw
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Post by pettaw » 01 Dec 2005 10:01 am

I never read this post properly.....until now. Anyway, I've edited it because you shouldn't be tuning the carb with the filters off and open, cos the crankcase breather system will be all out of kilter and therefore the CO will be wrong. This is particularly true on the 1.7 but also on the 1.4. So no choice but to grub around the screws under the housing whilst its on.

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 01 Dec 2005 04:55 pm

Like that going to happen the way the 1.4 bounces round under there ;) Then again I don't think that mine should bounce as much as it does
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

BaldBackTyres
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Post by BaldBackTyres » 25 Feb 2006 03:28 pm

Which is the mixture screw and which is the idle screw, i took my air filter casing off (both parts) and on the drivers side of the carb there is a big obvious screw, when i changed my carb i just screwed it right in, undone it 3 turns, started it up and done it in until it was Just still running and undone it out till it idles at aprox 800rpm, havent touched the other screw i dont know what one is what.
thanks.
(dont have a haynes manual)
if it dont go sideways, Make it!

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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 25 Feb 2006 03:43 pm

BaldBackTyres wrote:(dont have a haynes manual)
Do it ;) They're only sub £5 on ebay and pretty comprehensive! :)
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 26 Feb 2006 06:51 pm

Yeah, we're not telling you until you buy one sm56

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

dynamite40
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Post by dynamite40 » 15 Jan 2007 10:54 pm

foggyjames wrote:Yeah, we're not telling you until you buy one sm56

cheers

James
:lol: :lol: :lol:
ha ha sorry that was funny

Pappa
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Post by Pappa » 01 Jan 2008 03:24 pm

How do you gain access to tighten the two carb bolts closest to the engine block? No problems on the two on the other side, but the other ones are tight..

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 01 Jan 2008 05:28 pm

It's tricky. It helps to have a couple of different shaped/size spanners to hand.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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Ian Hutchinson
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Post by Ian Hutchinson » 14 Jan 2008 02:31 pm

Ali wrote:don't know if this subject comes into this thread but i have noticed a small 1/2sec loss of power when flooring the gas but my main problem is cutting out. The car can drive normally for miles and miles and then suddenly i get a lack of power and the exhaust makes a spitting kind of noise, works fine if you put the pedal to the floor an so opens the secondary chamber of the carb up. If knocked into neutral the car will just drop revs until it finally cuts out, makes gettin to a safe place to stop a heel and toe job just to keep it running. Just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem, its a 1.4, am i right in thinking its a jet getting blocked in the primary chamber of the carb just stopping fuel getting through?? Also fitted an aftermarket induction kit so a bit worried my initial bodge job enabled some dirt to get into the system but even after stripping the carb down and cleaning it I have put the performance air filter back and siliconed it sealed in every possible place, still the same problem! any help would be great
Ali
My 340 is doing something similar. I posted on the VOC forum (didnt know about this one then) and the loose carb problem was suggested.

Everything was fine until a week ago when on the way to work I could feel that the car was slightly loosing power in short bursts (as I travelled along at a constant speed) - as I slowed down to negotiate a series of roundabouts then there was a more dramatic loss of power. No odd noises from the exhaust or backfiring just a steady loss of power. Pumping the throttle and slipping the clutch allowed me to coax the car into the side. It started again but was reluctant to run at low revs - however it would go so I set off again. It wasnt right though and soon after repeated its earlier performance. This time it wouldnt start again. I checked the obvoius things in the engine compartment but couldnt find anything amis. When the AA arrived 50 mins later it started and ran no problem! He spent 20 mins checking it out and couldnt find an obvious fault. He then followed me home so that I could collect my 240 to use for work - the car ran fine on the 6 mile journey home.

On Saturday I checked the carb - tightening everything I could find. The bolts at the base of the carb nearest the engine are a real pig and I found the one at the front virtualy impossible to get a spanner on (any tips here would be useful). The bolts I could get to didnt seem too loose but I tightened them a little anyway.... Some of the crews holding parts of the carb together seemed very loose to me so I tightened them. I stuck a new set of HT leads on whilst I was at it.

The car started on the button and ran fine. Over the weekend I covered 120 miles without a hiccup.

However, 5 miles into my journey to work this morning the same problem occurred. It didnt seem as bad this time but there was a significant loss of power - at one point I had to pull into the side and rev the engine to keep it going. I managed to coax it along so I could get it home to swap for the trusty 240 again. On the way home it ran poorly, lacking any real power though reving freely and accelerating well on occassion.

I suspect that when I get home tonight it will start and run OK! Dont you just hate intermittent faults?

Apart from re-checking the carb mounting bolts (and perservering with the hard to reach ones) is there anything else I can be looking at? I will give the flywheel sensor a clean while Im at it and double check the hoses etc.

What I am finding rather confusing is the intermittent nature of the fault -surely if the carb had come loose there would be a steady delcline in performence with no improvement however sporadic? I have found on other cars that intermittent faults of this nature are usualy electrical.

I have a second hand Renix unit (from Braydons) but thought that I would emiminate everything else before I resorted to fitting it.

Any advice etc would be most appreciated

Thanks
Ian
1990 340DL 1.4 - 1990 240GLT - 1987 340 1.4

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Ian Hutchinson
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Post by Ian Hutchinson » 15 Jan 2008 01:45 pm

Ian Hutchinson wrote: Apart from re-checking the carb mounting bolts (and perservering with the hard to reach ones)................
Someone on the VOC forum suggested modifying a ring spanner by heating it with a blowtorch and bending the arm to an angle that would allow access to the nut. I'll give this a go later in the week.............
1990 340DL 1.4 - 1990 240GLT - 1987 340 1.4

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 15 Jan 2008 09:15 pm

Has it been particularly cold when this has happened Iain? It could be carb icing, from your description. Swapping the Renix is well worth a try, too, as a carb fault is usually a little more consistant than what you've described.

Sadly there are many places a vacuum leak can develop on a 1.4...and usually the carb base (i.e. where you tighten the four nuts) isn't one of the prime suspects. Have you tried spraying WD40 or similar around the carb to see if it picks up? If so, there's your leak. Have you tightened the (5?) screws/bolts on the top of the carb? Those are the favourite for working loose. Try pulling off the vacuum hose from the base of the carb and sealing over the hole (with your finger will do, at first) to see if that improves matters.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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Ian Hutchinson
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Post by Ian Hutchinson » 15 Jan 2008 09:58 pm

Thanks James

No, not that cold - and before the latest episode I had removed the long airtake (leading to the grill) from the airbox just to ensure that warmer air from the engine bay was being drawn in.

I will of course check for leaks in pipes ect - but if this was the case wouldnt the problem be there all of the time?


My plan for the weekend of to double check the cab bolts and screws, fit the replacement renix unit and if that doesnt work have a large whisky before thinking again!

Ian
1990 340DL 1.4 - 1990 240GLT - 1987 340 1.4

morgan105
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Post by morgan105 » 16 Jan 2008 01:32 am

Just wondered, have you put fuel in it recently? Maybe bad fuel!

Had it happen a couple of times and not just from cheap stations. First time was on 50 mile journey home and very similar symptoms - loss of power - stalling - wouldn't start for a while - fire up but very little revs then back to life and away again for a few ore miles. Made for a very interesting journey home of 4 to 5 hours with wife and 2 year old in the car at the time. Changed fuel pump, HT leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap but still no different. After all that I changed the fuel and all was working again as normal.

The car ran great for a couple of days after filling up before the problems started so think back to when fuel went in the car. Same week I found out quite a few people were suffering with bad fuel problems as well and the stations were emptying their tanks for fresh stuff.

Keep hold of any fuel you take out and store it safely as it comes in useful for cleaning parts, but be very careful if useing fuel to clean parts.

morgan105 8)

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