B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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cheshire190e
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by cheshire190e » 28 Apr 2008 01:14 pm
I've had my 340 for about a month now, and its started to cut out randomly.
Sometimes it idles perfectly and is a dream to drive, then other times I can be driving and the car will just cut out when i put my foot on the clutch, It seems as tho sometimes the car just doesn't idle and cuts out.
The car only cuts out when idling and not when I'm on the gas. I have been having to drive around with my choke pulled out a bit to stop it stalling.
Does anyone have any ideas? I've tried advancing the throttle cable a bit, but i don't think this would be the problem as sometimes it runs fine.
help please!!
thanks
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 29 Apr 2008 04:09 pm
Well now im really annoyed, I've just recieved and fitted a new solenoid for the carb and it hasn't made a difference.
It must be another problem, The car was running fine earlier today and i thought it was that problem fixed. But when i came to drive the car this afternoon the idle speed was again much much slower so I had to drive round with the choke on.
I dont know what to do, sometimes its fine then others its awful. its like some little pixie is hiding under the bonnet messing with the idle speed.
grrrrr
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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Pappa
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by Pappa » 29 Apr 2008 07:35 pm
cheshire190e wrote:Well now im really annoyed, I've just recieved and fitted a new solenoid for the carb and it hasn't made a difference.
It must be another problem, The car was running fine earlier today and i thought it was that problem fixed. But when i came to drive the car this afternoon the idle speed was again much much slower so I had to drive round with the choke on.
I dont know what to do, sometimes its fine then others its awful. its like some little pixie is hiding under the bonnet messing with the idle speed.
grrrrr
When it is awful, check the voltage on the solenoid connector. Should be 12 volts
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cheshire190e
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by cheshire190e » 30 Apr 2008 07:24 am
ok, ill check it out.
cheers
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 30 Apr 2008 11:50 pm
still no luck, changed fuel filter air filter plugs leads cleaned out carb checked the floats.
still it idles eratically, sometimes it idles abit too high others it idles too low and cuts out.
grr
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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morgan105
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by morgan105 » 01 May 2008 02:32 am
My wifes car did this a while ago and I cleaned all electrical contacts and everything I could find to clean even the fuses but it still gave the problem you're experiencing. In the end I reset the fuel mixture and choke setting and tightened the carb a bit more and this seems to have cured the problem as it's been fine for about a year now and is used daily for work.
Ours is the 1.4 and when we got the car the carb base plate was loose which caused an air leak at times and the car would not idle properly sometimes and stall at times and run fine other times, don't know if your carb has the same set up of a base plate but if it does it would be a good place to check to see if it's secure. The screws on ours were located underneath the carb (needs to be off the car to get to them) and can be easily overlooked.
morgan105

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cheshire190e
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by cheshire190e » 01 May 2008 07:05 am
cheers ill have a good go at tightning it up this weekend.
thanks
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 01 May 2008 07:31 am
I had a quick look under the bonnet, the gasket inbetween the air filter housing and the carb is in 3 pieces, could this be a cause of the problem??
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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redline
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by redline » 01 May 2008 07:40 am
I doubt if that on its own would cause your problems,
certainly worth checking the carb mounting bolts though
I didnt see in your list whether you had changed the distributor cap and rotor arm or not ,
might be worth doing that as well
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 01 May 2008 07:46 am
no i havnt changed those yet, ill give that a go. is the rotor arm hard to replace?
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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Chris_C
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by Chris_C » 01 May 2008 09:46 am
They are, unless you undo the 2 screws and one nut and remove the fan box, which then makes it super easy!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Q
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by Q » 01 May 2008 11:59 am
I have had a lot of problems myself with the solex carb (its alot more complicated than it needs to be!)
I found that if i didn't have a perfect air seal it wouldn't run properly at low revs.
All i can suggest is replace the gaskets and make sure very thing is tight and give then carb a blow through with a compressor to make sure nothings blocked
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 01 May 2008 03:26 pm
ok ill get some gasket paper and make up some new gaskets. Does anyone have a picture of the bolts on the carb I need to tighten? or should i just completely remove it clean it out then put it back on?
cheers everyone
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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cheshire190e
- Posts: 283
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by cheshire190e » 01 May 2008 11:58 pm
how exactly would i blow the carb out?? just put an air compressor hose down it?
1987 Volvo 340 1.7
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setsunakaede
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by setsunakaede » 02 May 2008 11:39 am
Did you check the float already?
If not, do that first!!!
Probably the float sits too deep as it is a bit filled with fuel.
Check:
-Take the carb head off the carb: you need to undo the big bolts that hold the carb in place, and the 5 screws that keeps the top tied to the rest. Then carefully lift vertically away, with a little help of a knife or screwdriver to undo the gasket (can be a bit stuck to the carb-- let it hang on the top!).
Now, tap away the pin that the floats pivot around, and pull the float off the little hook it's stuck to.
Pick a nice bowl of water, topped up, and let the float, well, float, with the pivot side resting on the very edge of the bowl. If it sits nice and high above the surface of the water, all clear, mount in reverse order. If it sinks a bit (more than 1/3 of the float submerged -- it will be clear if you see it, most times it's submerged for 2/3 or 3/4 ) replace with new one. You can still get those thingies at the Renault dealers.
I advise to simply remove the carb and do the dismantling somewhere controlled, like on the kitchen table or your desk, where you can put stuff down without too much fuzz. You can then check the bottom for straightness, and replace the gaskets between bottom and insulation base, and between base and manifold.