B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
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pinky
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by pinky » 29 Nov 2004 11:32 pm
I have a 'H' reg 340GL, with what was an intermittent fault originally! but completely died on me on Sunday.
What happened was that I'd be going along quite happily, then the engine would die, by cruising into side of road was usually able to start again & carry on. Now the engine won't start at all, although the starter motor WILL turn over - any ideas as to what the problem could be?

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5lab
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by 5lab » 29 Nov 2004 11:56 pm
carbs loose. follow the instructions at the top of the 'engine' forum
Siddy-'87 360 Glt lhd convertible
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
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5lab
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by 5lab » 30 Nov 2004 12:00 am
actually, might not be, but it sounds likely tbh. check that, then check fuel is getting in by unplugging the fuel hose and turning the engine on the starter. if fuel pisses everywhere, you know thats fine

Siddy-'87 360 Glt lhd convertible
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
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bogbasic
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by bogbasic » 30 Nov 2004 12:58 am
Hello, I had similar cutting out on a 340 1.4 some years ago and new set of leads, clean plugs and new distributor cap+rotor arm seemed to sort it. It was probably overkill to replace all of these so you might do well to check for a spark and if there isn't one then try to locate where the fault is. This was around the time when my cylinder head gasket was letting water into the cylinders and water into the oil. That would probably be the worst scenario - its more likely to be something electrical that is loose or worn out. The electronic ignition seems to be incredibly reliable on these cars so I doubt if there is a problem there.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
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SteveP
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by SteveP » 30 Nov 2004 01:08 am
bogbasic wrote:The electronic ignition seems to be incredibly reliable on these cars so I doubt if there is a problem there.
Is that true? I heard the opposite...
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foggyjames
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by foggyjames » 30 Nov 2004 01:14 am
I've always been told that its unreliable...but I've not seen the proof! Mine is still running.
I recently did hear of a problem with this relay - try knocking the wiring behind the dash with the engine running and see if it stutters. If so..ignition relay!
cheers
James
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wjp01908
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by wjp01908 » 30 Nov 2004 07:29 am
True James
Never had or seen a problem with the renix - the other ignition components are not so reliable though, Dizzy caps esp.
I`ve had the problem with the wiring up behind the fuse box though - intermittent starting problems etc.. Traced it to one of the connectors to the rear of the fuse box. A complete arse to get to.
Will
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tail happy torch boy twat
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by tail happy torch boy twat » 30 Nov 2004 07:55 pm
I have exactly the same problem as Will - it baffled me when it first happened and had to call out the AA. It's started again recently - but this time it plays with the immobiliser and alarm, so I hafta fumble around under the dash until the alarm sounds - insert the imob. key or prod the button on the handset and then go on my merry way! Can't believe I haven't been arrested seeing that I can be seen farting around with the ignition of a car with a very loud alarm going off...
Current:
Volvo 360 GLT x2 (1989 / 1986)
Volvo 480 2.0i Celebration (1996)
Volvo 480 1.7i (1988)
Volvo 850-R (1996)
Austin Princess 2200 x3
Allegro Estate 1500 'Special' (?)
Mini 1275GT.
Past:
Volvo 360 GLT x2
Mini rust bucket
***BL Forever***
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wjp01908
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by wjp01908 » 30 Nov 2004 09:51 pm
I`d have a good look at the connectors in that case THTBT - when i got round to sorting mine out , it was all melted....
I know it`s getting cold, but the best way to keep warm is not to stand around a burning car.
I got a good one from a scrap car and soldered the wires up about 6 inches off the connector. Bit of heat shrink and it was as good as new.
I suspect that water ingress and subsequent corrosion were the cause but not really sure.
Will
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wjp01908
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by wjp01908 » 30 Nov 2004 09:54 pm
"I know it`s getting cold, but the best way to keep warm is not to stand around a burning car. "
Well actually if it`s a barry`d up corsa/clio/206 then perhaps it is.
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petefarrell360
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by petefarrell360 » 30 Nov 2004 10:05 pm
Get the marshmellows out

and toast em on the flames!
Pete
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tail happy torch boy twat
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by tail happy torch boy twat » 01 Dec 2004 09:04 pm
wjp01908 wrote:I`d have a good look at the connectors in that case THTBT - when i got round to sorting mine out , it was all melted....
I know it`s getting cold, but the best way to keep warm is not to stand around a burning car.
I got a good one from a scrap car and soldered the wires up about 6 inches off the connector. Bit of heat shrink and it was as good as new.
Will
Thanks for the advice, Will. I have a feeling that my connector was *slightly* melted too! Was it the brown connector in your case? I'm not looking forward to soldering on a new connector - loadsa wires - but I guess it should be done!
Current:
Volvo 360 GLT x2 (1989 / 1986)
Volvo 480 2.0i Celebration (1996)
Volvo 480 1.7i (1988)
Volvo 850-R (1996)
Austin Princess 2200 x3
Allegro Estate 1500 'Special' (?)
Mini 1275GT.
Past:
Volvo 360 GLT x2
Mini rust bucket
***BL Forever***
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wjp01908
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by wjp01908 » 01 Dec 2004 09:59 pm
Bits of it were brown, but I think it was white originally!
You could use crimps but some of the cabling is pretty heavy duty and obviously carries a fair current - you`d need to make sure it was done well.
A choc block would probably be OK too - you wouldn`t have to look at it once it was in and you could do half the job inside in the warm
I prefer solder for such jobs though - it just seems "proper" IYNWIM - not too bad if you can get hold of one of those nifty little gas powered irons
Will.
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foggyjames
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by foggyjames » 02 Dec 2004 01:47 pm
I would *definitely* advise soldering such an essential join...connector block could only really be a temporary / emergency measure.
cheers
James
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redline
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by redline » 02 Dec 2004 04:59 pm
might try doing marshmallows on skys corsa if he dosn't behave himself