Pointless ignition (volvo 66)

[shimon340]

hi,

but, if the map was exactly the same as the original the there wouldnt be any problems or pinking.

S

[Tero Huikko]

Maybe...maybe not.

From experience I can tell that measured curves are rarely what is printed in old vacuum controlled distributors with points.
I have to get to the carb next. It wouldn't be the first car where jamming vacuum advance in distributor is compensated with carb settings. Now when it does have the real original advance curve the carb is out of its range and needs to be set right again.

123's answer was that the C-curve is from DAF 1300cm2 engine (has to be daf 66)

Anyway this is not the issue. 123 works great. There is not single thing that worked better with old distributor. So thereby whats the advance at idle or at 2500rpm is really irrelevant as long as it's not pinking.

[volvodspec]

you can only say that it's resulting in good performance if the engine itself is completely ok, so you definatly want to do the carb first and then set the igniotion settings again...

that the 123 ignition unit is more practical than the conventional of renix ignition is obvious

[shimon340]

hello

interesting. One can get pinking from running lean as well so I guess that 3 degree at idle, no vaccum map is compensating for the carb running lean? 6 deg map is too advanced for this (incorrect) mixture.

I agree that mechanical distributors 'maps' or timing would go out over time. Interesting that running the right map for your car has highlighted the carb problem. Have you worked out a means to measure the actual timing over speed and load and compared that to the original timing graphs? I've been thinking of ways to do that recently.

My 340 1.7 was running rich as some garage was trying to compensate for the carb air leaks and poor ignition system by enriching the carb. Sorting the carb (rebuild with Mac) showed a hesitation re-applying the gas on overrun. Mac could remove this by pulling the choke slightly. The carb was fully rebuilt so the symptom was caused by a worn distributor (which he had seen many times whilst working as a field engineer/product quality for Volvo Cars UK). It seems previously this fault was masked by making the mixture richer. Replacing the distributor cap (worn) and rotor arm resolved the problem. With a weak spark the power per cylinder is lower which was compensated for via the carb running rich. In this instance, the weak spark with a richer mixture gave higher power per cylinder which resolved the hesitation issue.

most interesting!

S

[Tero Huikko]

Just to be sure...does anyone have knowledge how many degrees is one line at the flywheel? It has mark 0 degrees then lines, no numbers. I made the adjustment as I recalled one line being 3 degrees. Books say that it should read numbers but medonthavesones...

[jtbo]

One tooth of timing belt in B200 had around 3 degrees, but I guess that does not help at all with you as motor in 66 is rather different.

If you know radius of flywheel and can measure how many millimeters there are between lines, then it should be fairly easy to work out how many degrees it is by doing some basic math?

[shimon340]

hi,

I'll try to have a look in my volvo 66 service manual. The Daf Owners Club uk also recently published an article on setting the timing. Info is there too.

I've also got Daf service manuals which detail the timing marks too. also, try posting on Dafclub.nl or dafownersclub.co.uk.

Not sure how fast I'll be able to look this up for you.

how's the 66 running otherwise?

shimon

[Tero Huikko]

It's running fine. I replaced the steering gear today. Took 4 hours and now I have to adjust it properly. Seems a bit stiff with new nylon bushings inside.

I found out what those mystery lines stand for; 6 degrees per line. So in fact it DOES work fine with original settings. I did set the advance at 12 degrees by mistake. No wonder it was pinking a little. It's now 6 degs advance and working fine.

[shimon340]

hi there

ah...that's good news!

What work were you doing in steering, sounds interesting...any pics?

S

[Tero Huikko]

No pics, sorry. I have about 8 cameras and not one of them are ever with me

I replaced the bushings inside the steering gear. I dismantled the whole steering axle with steering wheel, removed the steering gear in whole and dismantled it too. Inside the steering gear are two sets of nylon bushings that were totally wasted, just little pieces of them ground down by the rack&pinion steering gear.

Then I just put everything back in place. Not so easy as it might sound because you have assemble the steering gear in car with few parts inside the cabin and rest of them outside. Adjusting the play is also a little difficult and it's done by 'adjust-test drive-adjust- test drive again- adjust a little back- etc-'

Now it's as I said a little stiff, but no play what so ever. I tried to floor it at motorway and it's perfect even at 140km/h. No shakes or anything. Better than any new jap car

[macplaxton]

I'll post some steering rack pics eventually*. Doing the bushes on a D44 rack. Dismantled rack to find only half of one of the bushes. Play way about 2 inches at the rim

*on honeymoon with newly acquired V343DL auto. She didn't go too mad considering I "forgot" to mention I bought the thing about 7 weeks ago.