redblock engine mounting

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glasgowjim
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redblock engine mounting

Post by glasgowjim » 10 Jun 2009 08:04 am

I believed that the engine mountings on a 340 1.4 ltr were compatible with a redblock engine but recently someone has questioned this and now I am not sure can anyone enlighten me on this one?

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volvodspec
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvodspec » 10 Jun 2009 08:43 am

with redblock comes the transeaxle construction. you can't use 340 bellhousing, propshaft and gearbox. so you'll need the whole drivelane from a 360.

this will also mean that the rear floor structure is different (gearbox mountings, spare wheel space, 360 fuel tank placement)

for a redblock to fit a 340, you need that complete lot, it is doable but those engine mounts will be the least of your troubles. the mounting plates can easaly be placed on the chassis beams.

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pistonpen paultje
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by pistonpen paultje » 10 Jun 2009 06:03 pm

Well, thats not completly nescecery

1. You'll need complete engine(+bellhousing), with torquetube and gearbox...
2. You'll need 'nutserts' in the chassis, to hang the engine mount to.
3. use the 340 gearboxmount (rear one, if im correct) on the 360 gearbox
4. Use the std. 340 fuel tank...
5. Put your spare tire in the back of your car!
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tommysb
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by tommysb » 10 Jun 2009 06:43 pm

would it be possible to fit the torque tube+gearbox from a 360 to a 340 then? For a more 'manly' setup?

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volvodspec
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvodspec » 10 Jun 2009 09:37 pm

the torque tube construction is a rubbish piece of work, in total it is even weaker as the 340 setup. if you want a more "manly" setup, use entire 340 setup with a reinforced propshaft. that means a beam shaft 2 of the joints like in the middle of this one http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_imag ... _large.jpg wich is then bolted to the gearbox and outcoming clutch shaft.

pistonpen paultje wrote:use the 340 gearboxmount (rear one, if im correct) on the 360 gearbox
:roll:

360 gearbox "hangs" slightly lower because of the saddle tank, that's all good and handy, but it will mean that the torque tube misses alignment if 340 support brackets are used.

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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvosneverdie » 10 Jun 2009 09:40 pm

volvodspec wrote:the torque tube construction is a rubbish piece of work, in total it is even weaker as the 340 setup. if you want a more "manly" setup, use entire 340 setup with a reinforced propshaft. that means a beam shaft 2 of the joints like in the middle of this one http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_imag ... _large.jpg wich is then bolted to the gearbox and outcoming clutch shaft.

pistonpen paultje wrote:use the 340 gearboxmount (rear one, if im correct) on the 360 gearbox
:roll:

360 gearbox "hangs" slightly lower because of the saddle tank, that's all good and handy, but it will mean that the torque tube misses alignment if 340 support brackets are used.
Dude..................... what did we used to DO before you posted regulary?
Youve been sorting out problems at a rate of about 3 a day recently.
You may well indeed be the new resident Volvo Genius Lord.
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tommysb
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by tommysb » 10 Jun 2009 10:24 pm

volvodspec wrote:the torque tube construction is a rubbish piece of work, in total it is even weaker as the 340 setup. if you want a more "manly" setup, use entire 340 setup with a reinforced propshaft. that means a beam shaft 2 of the joints like in the middle of this one http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_imag ... _large.jpg wich is then bolted
Don't quite understand that, sorry! Is it possible to explain exactly what needs doing? Can you just use the prop from something else then? How does the joint make it stronger? Thanks!

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volvodspec
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvodspec » 10 Jun 2009 10:43 pm

lol @ volvosneverdie, try v3c there i'm even worse there :lol:

i'll try, i'm afraid my english isn't good enough to explain exactly what i mean.
well, you can't use a fully rigid propshaft, wich is why volvo used those rubber bushings on each side of the propshaft to give the propshaft about 3 degrees of play. but unfortunatly these bushings are the first to fail.

on 360, they solved the rubber bushing for play between engine and gearbox problem by making a rigid connection between engine and gearbox with a ball bearinged axle running through it.

so what you need is a propshaft with tiny amount of play possible on each mounting side, and a slightly thicker body on the shaft itself. on truck propshafts, theye are like this http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bestand:Cardan_Shaft.jpg and thanks to google i can now finally type two words that are enough to explain what i'm trying to say: cardan shaft!

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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by tommysb » 10 Jun 2009 10:54 pm

So where would one start looking to find a Cardan Shaft suitable for a 340?

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volvodspec
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvodspec » 10 Jun 2009 10:58 pm

custom.

you'll need the parts on the inside of the rubber bushing (spline parts) of a standard 340 manual transmission propshaft, weld the cardan joints to them and then weld a tube to it to make it the EXACT length of a standard propshaft. after that you'll need to get the whole thing professionaly balanced, since the propshaft has to be running at 6500rpm+

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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvosneverdie » 10 Jun 2009 11:22 pm

volvodspec wrote:custom.

you'll need the parts on the inside of the rubber bushing (spline parts) of a standard 340 manual transmission propshaft, weld the cardan joints to them and then weld a tube to it to make it the EXACT length of a standard propshaft. after that you'll need to get the whole thing professionaly balanced, since the propshaft has to be running at 6500rpm+
Easy then. :lol:
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filthyjohn
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by filthyjohn » 11 Jun 2009 03:11 am

Commercial Propshaft Services in Team Valley will do things like that. I was thinking of using some sort of beemer prop shortened to suit, using the 340 splines and converting to a bolt-in setup for easy removal.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

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pistonpen paultje
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by pistonpen paultje » 11 Jun 2009 12:16 pm

volvodspec wrote:
pistonpen paultje wrote:use the 340 gearboxmount (rear one, if im correct) on the 360 gearbox
:roll:

360 gearbox "hangs" slightly lower because of the saddle tank, that's all good and handy, but it will mean that the torque tube misses alignment if 340 support brackets are used.
Doesnt matter, because the engine ánd gearbox, are hanging on 4 spots. So the gearbox alligns the engine. The engine will tilt over about 1 degree, but thats no problem...

This is exactly what they do in the 360 cup...If they crash the 360 body, they just bolt it in a 340 body...
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Fuse
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by Fuse » 11 Jun 2009 01:55 pm

volvodspec wrote:the torque tube construction is a rubbish piece of work, in total it is even weaker as the 340 setup.
You'll break the stock 300-series gearbox and the diff way before the axle inside the torque tube snaps. Peter Schmidt has proven that with his previous setup which included shortened 360 torque tube, Getrag gearbox and 760 multilink diff. Hex bolt band-piece at the gearbox end was replaced with custom piece.

With slicks at the drag strip the axle inside the torque tube snapped after few full throttle launches though before that he drove 12,671s @ 192,93km/h, with that kind of trap speeds engine power is near 400hp (later with increased boost and NOS he dynoed 453hp @ 4851rpm / 686nm @ 4573rpm) and stock gearbox and diff would've gone way before those power levels. In street use with street tires that setup worked fine though.

And like pistonpen paultje said above you can use the 340 gearbox mounts with the torque tube setup because torque tube casing is bolted on to the gearbox and on to the bellhousing so if the alignment of the gearbox changes, the engine will also tilt with it and vice versa.
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volvodspec
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Re: redblock engine mounting

Post by volvodspec » 11 Jun 2009 03:51 pm

you will get extensive wear on engine and gearbox mounts because these aren't placed/aligned correctly with 340 rear mount.
but that they do that in the cup doesnt surprise me at all since i know how they chance distribution belt :wink:

@ fuse, bet that wasn't with the stock connecting piece for gearbox to torque tube.

also on higher than standard power in 360 you can get a bumpyer ride because the torquetube axle tordates way more than a reinforced 340 propshaft. not even speaking about a comperison for changing a gearbox or clutch under a 340 or a 360.

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