As title, anyone actually done it yet?
I know chassis rail, engine mount, etc etc gets in the way with the stock manifold so your not meant to be able to fit a bigger than the little mitsu turbo, but not sure what other people have done.
Anyone done it yet? Pics/info?

Errm no, I don't think it's possible - stock manifold and 13c and it practically touches the inner wing/engine mount! Only way round is a different manifold or an adapter on the stock manifold to raise the turbo a bit

SteveP wrote:Errm no, I don't think it's possible - stock manifold and 13c and it practically touches the inner wing/engine mount! Only way round is a different manifold or an adapter on the stock manifold to raise the turbo a bit

Indeed, thats what I mean, has anyone actually done either a different manifold or adapter yet to do this? Ive yet to see anything thats all

It has been done but don't seem to recall any UK guys doing it. Check out 300power as I've seen both methods done on there

Never heard of that site, cheers!

Basically im asking as I have already done it, GT3076 and 60mm external wastegate and using the stock manifold, just wondered if what I welded together was much different to what most do!

You can't tease us like that without some pics

Oh and you'll love 300 power, there's some crazy projects going on there!

I'll try post some later, its not running yet, but the actual fabrication is 99% done, didnt take very long TBH, only things that get in the way are the header tank and washer bottle, both easy moved.
The brake master cyl takes up some room but there so much room on the inner wing its no biggie.

There are some awesome stuff on the 300power forum, makes my stupid zero budget thing look basic as hell, lol

The only UK car I know of to have done a "work-around" on the turbo front was Kev Strong's 360 Turbo, which just had a T3 fitted. He removed the normal exhaust-side engine mount, and replaced it with one from a 240, bolted to a bracket welded on to the front crossmember. When he broke the car, I bought said crossmember from him...and I'm sure I can grab a pic or two, sometime, if that would be of interest.

I'm guessing you've made up a spacer to go between the manifold and the turbo, based on your posts...right? People often wail about things like that being a bodge, but they usually seem to actually perform way better than you might expect.

How have you done the port on the manifold for the external gate?

What are your plans for the driveline, btw? If you're unleashing what a GT3076R is really capable of, you're going to have broken bits behind you...

cheers

James

Basically its a 2.5in pipe, from the ported stock turbo maniold to the inner wing where GT3076 fits.
Massive external gate about 1in from the turbo inlet, no need/point going to the effort of modding the manifold barring grinding out the internals a bit.

Its a very basic setup with bits I had lying round, cost me 150quid all-in so far, purely doing it as a test, no aim barring seeing how it works. Once this works will probably knock up compound, twincharged, and rear mount setups, jus to see the effects on each.

Transmission plans are minimal, will need an uprated clutch and the diffs already welded.

Considering the high compression of the current engine, chances are not much/any more than 1bar will be possible on pump fuel without water injection, which is 300 horse or less anyhow, and its just a mess about test car, nothing I mind breaking or blowing up.

On a stock redblock head/cam, you'd need a good 2bar to even get a genuine 450bhp from one, probably more, and thats not happening.

Not sure weather its possible with a standard manifold, but i have seen people take aftermarket tubular manifolds, chop and flip the flange (engine side) to moun the turbo the other way up and at the front of the engine.

http://www.trampdrift.co.uk/Forum/TD/sh ... php?t=1488

Sounds like a plan. Good point about the external gate take-off...why mess with that hard-as-hell cast iron when there's a nice piece of stainless to cut a hole in!

Depending on the exact turbo size, 2 Bar gets you to about 325-350bhp peaking at 6k or so with a stock head and the kind of cam you'd see marketed as "fast road" by the likes of Kent. The head is the major hold-up at that point. That's where we're at with Ryan's 740 at the moment. There's a ("mild" spec) big valve 531 and a Holset waiting to go on which I think will see us north of 400bhp.

A guy in the states got a Sten Parner head sent over from Sweden, and made 400whp on stock manifolds with a T3/T4 hybrid. I forget the exact boost pressure this was at, but I have a feeling it was 17psi.

cheers

James

400whp from a 2.3 at 17psi? That would be something along the lines of 100bhp per litre (flywheel) n/a, if thats the case thats a goddamn good head!

It was a 2.5 (Volvo Penta stroker crank), but I think it was still a pretty god-damn good head! It was certainly pretty expensive, not that that's any guarantee of anything much! I remember at the time people were pretty much open mouthed at what it achieved, especially on stock manifolds. Most people weren't making that kinda power on 16v swaps at that boost pressure.

cheers

James

Yeah from what ive seen, once you start porting its easier to get the flow from the 2V head than it is to go to all the effort of the 16V head conversion which itself needs work to flow amazingly anyhow.

If/when I madly fall in love with redblocks and spend some actual money on it it will deffo be staying 2V

Well I dunno...you've got to spend a lot (or be some sort of genius) to get the 8v to flow as well as even the stock 16v. Porsche had a significant hand in the design of the 16v redblock head, which was in turn a test-bed for the whiteblock head. That Sten Parner head I mentioned was about £1500. Just sticking big valves in it isn't enough...although it does of course help. They do quite a bit of massaging of the ports and chamber. That's the stuff which takes a lot of experience to DIY effectively.

Most of the yanks who make useful power run 16v. There are a couple of 400+whp 16vTs which spring to mind...both on stock heads, and with relatively small turbos (at least one of those is a GT30 of some description). The one notable exception is Rob Prince (you've probably seen his hot-as-hell blue 242 drift car on Kodiac gold-centred split-rims), but again, that was a very expensive cylinder head from Sweden. There's been a lot of development (relative to how good the head is) of the 8v head because of class restrictions in motorsport prohibiting the use of the 16v heads. That's how the 'Two Valve Evo' heads came to be (http://www.motordesign.se/start.asp?page=5en). You could build the mother of all 16v redblock heads for the price of one of those Evo 8v heads, but if you can't use the 16v...!

In all fairness, you could probably take a 531 to a decent head shop here in the UK and get exactly the same results for significantly less than the Swedes will charge you...and it'll give you more power than you could ever reasonably want in a 300.

We're going somewhere inbetween with my housemate's 740...aiming for about 350whp with a "cheap" big-valve 8v head. The budget is fairly limited, but we've had to bite the bullet and do something about the head, as there's no doubt it's now a hold-up for us.

cheers

James