345 auto 1982 gl model

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judithmudie
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Joined: 13 Apr 2010 03:32 pm

345 auto 1982 gl model

Post by judithmudie » 13 Apr 2010 03:40 pm

Please can somebody help I require a rear differential for the above car.
Thank you. Judith

volvosneverdie
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Re: 345 auto 1982 gl model

Post by volvosneverdie » 13 Apr 2010 03:43 pm

Im sure someone will have one for you, but in the meantime could I sneak in and beg to see some pics?
Early 300s always warrant display! :D
Image

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trabitom99
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Re: 345 auto 1982 gl model

Post by trabitom99 » 13 Apr 2010 05:42 pm

1982 - early dash! Sounds great, pics please!

What happened with the differential?

Cheers

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988

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volvodspec
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Re: 345 auto 1982 gl model

Post by volvodspec » 14 Apr 2010 09:34 pm

a vario diff can definatly go, but i've only managed to wreck them with drifting, at the moment where you have full throttle and throw the car round from side to side with a stock open diff, it won't last long... if you manage to blow it with normal/daily driving you should been given a medal, that is except for if the secundary gearbox was sweating a bit too much and made the housing run out of oil, that can make a mess of the sprockets too..

a half year ago i went to see a car which the ANWB (dutch onroad repair service) had said it had a broken diff, after a proper diagnosis there was a vacuumhose off that was ment to be on the clutch servo, and the floatergasket of the carb was gone; combo of this made the car rev way too much making gearchange impossible.. just an example of how easy a so called professional can make a very wrong diagnosis on a 3 series CVT...

i'd put the car on a bridge and just check the driveline

- is the propshaft spining when you rev it in N
- are the belts in good order
- can you change gear
- will the car drive in D or R

if it will do all of these things; continue with the following:

get the rear wheels off the ground (axle stand), put it in D and rev it; if neither of the wheels spin but the belts are the diff is blown.


in the rare case that the diff is blown; you are way better off with changing the entire secundary gearbox or if the mechanics don't want to be bothering with adjusting the belts the complete transmission.

to swap a diff on a CVT the secundary gearbox needs to be pulled apart, it can be done; done it several times myself but without the right tools there is no way you can get the pulleys off the main axle :D much more laibor (or leibor?) hours for the mechanic to get that done too, won't be cost-efficient...

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