Newbie Questions - Volvo 340 CVT

[jimknc_volvo340]

Hi all,

Recently bought the 1.4 CVT on sale from Saule Del-Rio in this forum: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =8&t=13251

I'm generally happy with the car - structurally, it seems sound and looks in good nick for its age. I have read a little about these cars prior to buying, but still know very little about them. Please could you guys help with the following questions?

I would like to get the car fully serviced as there appear to be a few little niggles which need addressing and was wondering if someone could advise:

1. Anywhere that services 300 series CVT's/Daf Variomatic cars? (either Chester or London areas is fine as I am in both areas on regular basis)
2. If any kits are available (and where to buy) to service the CVT once I am confident of doing it myself (eg. CVT Belts, EMV ancillaries)
3. List of part numbers for the perishable items - car is a G reg. (brake pads, wipers, filters etc.) --- This last point is not too important I can bother Euro Car Parts for these!

Re: the niggles - the main concern at the moment seems to be a problem on the throttle response:

1. The car does not idle well at all. Even when its been running a while, the choke continuously needs to be adjusted when the car comes to a standstill. Also on low rev's eg. I'm guessing 1000-1200 rpm the whole block in its mountings quite alarmingly!!!
2. There seems to be no definition as regards the depression of the acclerator. The car will obviously accelerate, but it lacks the kickdown on full depression. Once the acclerator is fully depressed it seems to choke the carburettor and the car will then not accelerate at all until the pedal is returned to a gentle depression. (CVT changes gear ratio when brake is depressed so I'm wondering if this is more of a throttle linkage/Carb setup problem???)
3. The rev's seems high and the m.p.g. seems high because of this. I'm not able to fully verify this yet as I have not hoked up a tacho yet.

Other than the above all appears ok. I only travel around 8-9 miles each way to work and fancied something different and quirky to get me to work. I would like to get the car back to almost new condition. If anyone could give me pointers and advise things to look for I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Jamie

[nvdw]

Jamie,

1. Is the clutch plate the same as the one in manual 340's?
2. If it is different, where I could source a replacement clutch or clutch kits for my G reg 340 CVT?
3. I've read that its useful to have spare/extra shims. Can these still be sourced if so please can some one advise where?
4. Please could you guys advise part numbers for all/any of the above.

The clutch plate is specific to a 340 CVT; it is not compatible with 340 manual plates or Daf/Volvo 66 ones.

It may not yet be necessary to change the clutch - some of the other symptoms may point you in the wrong direction. First, check if the clutch gap is correct. THIS TOPIC shows you how and even tells you how to adjust it. If you are lucky, you can use the shims that are already there to obtain the correct gap. There are parts numbers for these shims in that thread, but that does not guarantee their availability.

The parts number for the CVT clutch plate is 3212297. If you can't obtain one in the UK, you could source one at www.dafhobby.nl or have your original plate refurbished (it is, after all, a conventional clutch plate) as long as it isn't damaged.

A good start for sourcing B14 idling problems can be found HERE

[jimknc_volvo340]

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply, I certainly hope that the idling problem can be fixed by adjusting the carb bolts - that would be great.

I have done a few checks:

1. kick down check - low gear hold light goes off when accelerator floored - ok
2. ratio change on hard brake - can hear solenoid click when brake pressed hard and revs pick - ok
3. revs decrease when accelerator lifted - works but not sure how well but ok
4. belts checked - no signs of any wear they almost look new and zero rubber deposits in cvt shield - seems ok but not sure if belts aligned properly
5. blown down both emv hoses - both have quite a lot of resistance and most definitively push the pressure back on release - seems ok, i think the diaphragms are ok
6. have checked for click at circa 1800 this comes in ok - I think its at around 1800, I have not got a tacho installed yet.
7. Have raised on jack and done the zero torque test thing to check for clutch slippage. the wheels turn on low revs and seem to have go moment by circa 1800 rpm so I think I may not have a clutch prob after all
8. When reved up to 1800 there is almost no pressure coming from the EMV 4 way. There is a little but I had to blow hard on the tubes to move diaphragms I am not sure this bit is working properly.

I'm hoping that a lot of the problems might be addressed with the carb but still think I have a transmission prob too - I like quirky cars but I can't imagine anyone buying one of these new if it performed like mine

Have now noticed that the exhaust if chucking out a soot/water little mist when throttle pushed - could this still be down to the carb setup?? - Anyone?? (I dont fancy overhauling the engine!!)

Thanks for the help on the part numbers!!

Jamie

[macplaxton]

The clutch friction plate was still on the Sachs clutch catalogue last time I looked... would have to sit down at the desk to dig out part numbers. (Job for later.)

[jimknc_volvo340]

Thanks Mac

I sorted the carb last night and everything runs much, much better. I will still be buying a new clutch and shims for back up spares so your help here would be great. nvdw posted this part number "CVT clutch plate is 3212297" but I dont have any number for the shims yet. I've been advised to speak to Danny at www.dafhobby.nl

I managed to check my belts on the CVT properly yesterday. I slid a feeler gauge up the side of the driver pulleys and there was about 0.5mm on either side and zero space on secondary pulleys. The belt does not appear worn at all but the tolerance seems tight - is this correct?


thanks everyone,

Jamie

[macplaxton]

Gap between the secondary pulleys should be 1.5mm to 2.0mm with no more than 0.5mm variation side to side.

A fresh belt will measure 45/46mm at it's widest point. A worn out one will be approx 38mm wide - although you can tell straight away from the howling of slack belts and the lack of available thread on the adjuster.

[volvomania]

If you can't obtain one in the UK, you could source one at http://www.dafhobby.nl or have your original plate refurbished (it is, after all, a conventional clutch plate) as long as it isn't damaged.

Get it refurbished locally, that is exactly the same thing that he does. If it is too far gone to get it done, he won't want your carcass anyway and will charge extra.
In that case you can source a basic disc on the scrapyard and get that one redone.

[macplaxton]

Just get a NOS one. There's one just gone up here from Chris for a snip. http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =8&t=13409

If you go down that route, don't toss the old bits as someone might need them for a re-furb later.

[Chris_C]

Definately keep the old one, clutch plates are fairly easy to have refurbed