Ali's drift 360 project
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WoW thats really very impressive,
but i bet like most she will forget all the engine stuff
and keep all of these smutty inuendos , sarcasm etc
i dont rember when i started spanering about, but i do know that my parents had to warn the teachers that i take things apart to look at them to see how they worked.
Cheers
Bravefart
but i bet like most she will forget all the engine stuff
and keep all of these smutty inuendos , sarcasm etc

i dont rember when i started spanering about, but i do know that my parents had to warn the teachers that i take things apart to look at them to see how they worked.

Cheers
Bravefart
Volvo 340
1988

AMRs worn rings comment was valid TBH, but that smoke is very blue, not black, so nowt to do with overfueling.
Still think its a turbo issue tho, and not a "fitted 2 fooked ones" either, more like a oil feed issue or similar.
POSSIBLY a daft question, but...
What oil you using?
As some 40grade rats piss will pour out a lot of turbo seals as quick as your engine can pump it in...
Still think its a turbo issue tho, and not a "fitted 2 fooked ones" either, more like a oil feed issue or similar.
POSSIBLY a daft question, but...
What oil you using?
As some 40grade rats piss will pour out a lot of turbo seals as quick as your engine can pump it in...
Well, that is not helping, you need some better oils with turbo, I'm using Castrol tws motorsport 10w-60 even my car is NA and all I can say that worth every penny, engine does not sound like it would destroy itself any moment when driving on track like it did with Mobil formula 1 or what ever that crap was I used before, anyway it should not been bad, but it really was, when getting hot Mobil oils seem to loose viscosity or something, it is like water after hard use, can feel it between fingers there should be very slippery surface between fingers if oil is good, no matter if it is new or used.Ali wrote:The cheapest 10w/40 in the shop, something like £11![]()
i'll go grab some pics of the feed and drain now
Some cheap crap that they sell as oil is something not worth even a commenting, might work fine if you don't ever use high rpm and so but shows up in long run for sure.
40 thickness oil of even the most expensive type is WAY to thin for a turbo car, ive seen perfectly healthy turbo cars smoke like a bitch on that stuff, and turbos motors heat up oil dead quick so even if its fine when cold, it wont be good for really ragging it.
Personally 60 thickness ideally, 50 can get away with if you stuck, 55 is fine too.
Im used to all this, all ive ever owned is tuned turbo cars, and id never dream of using 40 oil, though i have tried it.
Oil is a big issue on turbos, so cheapo crap is not the way.
If you dont want to use expensive 35quid+ Mobil/Castrol then Valvoline do nice thick 50-55-60 semi-synth ive ran in the past with no issues and costs 15-20quid IIRC
Personally 60 thickness ideally, 50 can get away with if you stuck, 55 is fine too.
Im used to all this, all ive ever owned is tuned turbo cars, and id never dream of using 40 oil, though i have tried it.
Oil is a big issue on turbos, so cheapo crap is not the way.
If you dont want to use expensive 35quid+ Mobil/Castrol then Valvoline do nice thick 50-55-60 semi-synth ive ran in the past with no issues and costs 15-20quid IIRC
There you go, if its ok when cold its seriously likely to be a BIG help then.
Unless somethings mega fooked, too thin oil only really seeps past turbo oil seals, valve stem seals, and piston rings, when they hot and thinner.
Remember the first number, the W number, is its thickness when cold, so lower that the better really, and the top number is how thick it stays when hot, so thicker the better on a turbo motor or just hard driven or large tolerance non turbo.
Unless somethings mega fooked, too thin oil only really seeps past turbo oil seals, valve stem seals, and piston rings, when they hot and thinner.
Remember the first number, the W number, is its thickness when cold, so lower that the better really, and the top number is how thick it stays when hot, so thicker the better on a turbo motor or just hard driven or large tolerance non turbo.
Also, do you have oil pressure gauge Ali? Could be worth getting one as you have some modifications and you could see from there how oil reacts when it gets hotter, I know that with good Mobil oils you will get huge pressure drop when hot, those are good only to gearbox where temps are moderate 
0w oils are again bit two edged blade, I have heard how some oil pumps can't make good pressure with those, but I have not much experience from those, all I know is they come away from every damn seal, maybe should make seal glue cover for engine to keep them not dripping to ground

0w oils are again bit two edged blade, I have heard how some oil pumps can't make good pressure with those, but I have not much experience from those, all I know is they come away from every damn seal, maybe should make seal glue cover for engine to keep them not dripping to ground

Right just got back from the local parts shop, didn't buy anything in the end, castrol edge was £43 for 4L, then £12 for 1L so bloody expensive basically!
Some random bloke came up to me n started chatting to me about drifting haha, explained the oil thing to him and he said he had a cosy years ago and it smoked with 10/40 and didnt with thicker oil, he said castrol high mileage would probably do the job but that was only 10/40 again but £15.
Then some business suited sales twat started trying to sell me fully synthetic telling me it wouldn't smoke, then tried selling me additives for coating the bores of the engine and injector cleaner, walked out in the end
It was also smoking ALL the time on the drive home, just a light haze even when cruising totally off boost so it does seem to get progressively worse with temperature, thats after a 15min journey to one place, 5mins to the next, then 15mins home so not even really that long
Some random bloke came up to me n started chatting to me about drifting haha, explained the oil thing to him and he said he had a cosy years ago and it smoked with 10/40 and didnt with thicker oil, he said castrol high mileage would probably do the job but that was only 10/40 again but £15.
Then some business suited sales twat started trying to sell me fully synthetic telling me it wouldn't smoke, then tried selling me additives for coating the bores of the engine and injector cleaner, walked out in the end

It was also smoking ALL the time on the drive home, just a light haze even when cruising totally off boost so it does seem to get progressively worse with temperature, thats after a 15min journey to one place, 5mins to the next, then 15mins home so not even really that long
Down to one car shocker! 1994 200sx S14 119k
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I'm the first to admit that I'm no expert on oil weight, but I was under the impression that turbos are only happy with relatively thin oil (due to the tiny bearings, relative to the rest of the engine), and that you usually have to use synthetic or semi-syn as it's tricky to get mineral oils which are suitably stable at the very light weightings. I have no idea what my parent's turbo cars run, but 10w30 semi-syn sticks in the mine. Ryan's was running AOK on 10w40 synthetic.
All I can tell you first hand is that this is EXACTLY what Ryan's car is doing. No change in anything, other than that the car was stood for 6 weeks prior to the smoking first appearing. Smoking got progressively worse until it smoked significantly even on idle. We're now onto rebuilding the turbo, and we'll see if that sorts it out. Of course it doesn't mean it'll be the same problem you're getting, but hey.
Apart from a puff on start-up due to stem seals, I think any oil induced smoking will be worse when the oil is hot (i.e. thinner), so no news there. For me, the best clue we have at the moment is that changing the turbo made a big difference. People don't generally look after big Volvos (just look at the state of the engine of an average scrapped 740/760TI...shocking!), so it's perfectly possible that you encounter several screwed snails.
Griz may well be a good guy to talk to here. I sold my 13c to Martin on Tbricks for £30, but I was doing him a favour...and condition was kinda unknown. Griz's 13c hasn't seen many miles since new, so I'd make him an offer a bit more generous than that, and see what he says.
cheers
James
All I can tell you first hand is that this is EXACTLY what Ryan's car is doing. No change in anything, other than that the car was stood for 6 weeks prior to the smoking first appearing. Smoking got progressively worse until it smoked significantly even on idle. We're now onto rebuilding the turbo, and we'll see if that sorts it out. Of course it doesn't mean it'll be the same problem you're getting, but hey.
Apart from a puff on start-up due to stem seals, I think any oil induced smoking will be worse when the oil is hot (i.e. thinner), so no news there. For me, the best clue we have at the moment is that changing the turbo made a big difference. People don't generally look after big Volvos (just look at the state of the engine of an average scrapped 740/760TI...shocking!), so it's perfectly possible that you encounter several screwed snails.
Griz may well be a good guy to talk to here. I sold my 13c to Martin on Tbricks for £30, but I was doing him a favour...and condition was kinda unknown. Griz's 13c hasn't seen many miles since new, so I'd make him an offer a bit more generous than that, and see what he says.
cheers
James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...