Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

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Evoman
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Re: 360 GLT Project

Post by Evoman » 26 May 2011 07:21 pm

great post! very interesting! I've always been a landrover fan, i just don't have the pockets :(
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Chris_C
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Re: 360 GLT Project

Post by Chris_C » 26 May 2011 07:33 pm

I know Steve said he'd thought some were similar before, but that was only the motor, not the gearbox (which come off with two torx bits)

Great post... mind if I copy it to a V3M how to at some point in the future as a standalone topic?
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12 - NASLR Time 15.7secs
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5
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'91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

brickie501
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Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by brickie501 » 26 May 2011 08:28 pm

Chris_C wrote:I know Steve said he'd thought some were similar before, but that was only the motor, not the gearbox (which come off with two torx bits)
I noticed that and got the casing off but the spindle wouldn't move easily. Because I thought my gearbox was seized I didn't go beyond that 'exploratory' dismantling as it wouldn't have helped.
Chris_C wrote:Great post... mind if I copy it to a V3M how to at some point in the future as a standalone topic?
I'm usually getting the one getting advice here so no problem if I can make it the otherway around at least this once!

Now to figure out how to 'refresh' my engine mounts...

I've read hereabouts that people have drained them and refilled with something called Sikaflex 291. While being taken shopping by Mrs B, I found the very thing on the shelf at Clas Ohlson at an 'online' price (as well as a drill driven pump for my Land Rover's veg-oil filtration project) so I just need a week off the road to allow for the recommended setting time with the mounts completely compressed.

I'll let you know how that goes too...

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mattywatsit
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by mattywatsit » 27 May 2011 07:50 am

Great post - can i also add Volvo 850 motors? as they appear to fit too. As said a lot of the motors are the same its the gearbox that is slightly different, thanks for putting this post up.

Loving the GLT saloon too! 8)

brickie501
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by brickie501 » 25 Oct 2011 05:50 pm

Shameless bump ... but I have passed another milestone:

Image

(apologies for the dodgy photo quality)
:360:

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trabitom99
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by trabitom99 » 25 Oct 2011 06:52 pm

Great milestone, but barely run in for a 360 :-) Wait till it gets to:

Image

That's kms mind ...

Cheers

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 226000kms 1988

brickie501
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by brickie501 » 28 May 2012 09:04 pm

Update:

She's not been my daily driver for a few weeks as the engine mounts properly 'bottomed out'. I've been 'planning' to sort them out for ages so this weekend I got on with it at last.

There is mixed information about filling 360 engine mounts with Sikaflex so I thought others might be interested in my 'experience'.

Won't cover removing the mounts - Haynes manual typre stuff & pretty easy, although we did find it necessary to remove the mount-to-body brackets despite it being said elsewhere on these boards that just lowering the engine frees the 'canisters' for removal!

Exactly how to drain & re-fill the 'canisters' is the least clear thing about all this. Little bro has more hands-on experience of bodgi... sorry, FIXING cars than me so we had a few discussions ...

Levering out the ball-bearing 'valves' allows some of the old liquid to drain. A lot of shaking, standing, then shaking again is needed to get it all out though. Spraying brake cleaner in, then forcing air in from a compressor (which blasts everything out when 'released') seemed to help - mind your eyes!

Going on reports that there are 2 chambers inside each 'canister' I gambled & drilled a hole about half-way up the sidewall 'opposite' the valve. This went through two metal layers & into a 'rubber bag'. Forcing air into this new hole pushed the relevant threaded attachment out & excess air through original 'valve' appature; proving I would be putting Sikaflex where liquid was before.

We altered our approach as we went along but have concluded the best way to refill is through the original 'valve' apperture. Eventually the Sikaflex makes it's way through the two chambers & excess comes out of the newly drilled hole.

Following advice in other discussion we also drilled into each of the 'castellations' on one end of the mounts. This stops the 'rubber bag' expanding. I reasoned that this sealant is in compression (where it should be happier) so there will still be some resistance if the stuff in the 'bag' (being in tension) fails in some way ... & the mount will still have some effect...

A pictures paints etc...

Image

Circled in red to the left is the original "ball bearing valve" hole
Circled in red to the right is the new hole I drilled
Circled in green are the holes to 'pack' the canister & limit expansion of the 'bag'

NOTE: There is only just enough sealant in a 300ml tube to do the two mounts. In fact I had to use a small amount of another sealing product because I wasted some Sikaflex after a bit of an error :oops: (as Sikaflex is specifically named for filling, I mixed this in where it seemed less critical ie as 'padding' between rubber bag & metal outer).

As long as you don't go overboard on the first mount, one of these should do the job...

Image

The mounts are compressed in a vice as we speak to be re-fitted after at least a week as recommended by others. I will let you know how they perform once they have been back on for a few miles...
:360: 340pw
Last edited by brickie501 on 13 Jul 2012 07:06 am, edited 2 times in total.

brickie501
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by brickie501 » 11 Jul 2012 11:05 pm

Well the re-filled engine mounts seem to be working. Little bro has refitted them and done a few miles so far.
Exhaust is still grating but think this is because it hasn't been moved to account for new (higher :D ) engine position!
:360: 340pw

MCHUDD
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by MCHUDD » 13 Jul 2012 10:44 am

Hi mate.
Theres me thinking my 1983 GLS was doing well getting up to 52000 miles :lol: :lol: :lol:
Cheers Mark.
sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69 sm69

brickie501
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by brickie501 » 31 Dec 2012 11:07 am

Poor old girl has now been sitting for a few months while other things (like moving & sorting new house) got in the way :oops:

I don't have the skills to do the welding & my brother (who does) doesn't have the time so I'm going to have to 'through money at the problem' :shock:

I've found a nearby place that seems to do good work on 'classics' (& gets good reviews) & am currently plotting to fetch her back from my folks' place & get her assessed there.

Now we don't have a confirmed statement of work yet but I reckon I could afford to spend up to a grand on a proper tidying up. That may not be enough to do everything & almost certainly won't complete this plan:

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 42#p171742 :D

but I'm hoping to get all the structure sound (if not pretty) & go from there.

This is not a money making exercise - I've grown rather attached to my 360 - but as I've only spent around £400 so far (very rough - including purchase) she owes me nothing; so does that make financial sense to others?

Basically, I don't really know what a semi-restored (on the road) 360 GLT is worth. I'm not planning on selling but, if I had to at some point after work was done, could I assume (providing I keep it in the improved state!) I would get a fair amount of my £1K back?

Ride_on
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by Ride_on » 31 Dec 2012 12:58 pm

It will not be worth as much as it costs, and I think it will cost >£1000 to sort it properly. Depending on the condition you could be looking at a full restoration. Get some photos up and we can give a better opinion.

If it needs £1000 of welding, I think you should be looking for a really good 340 shell, and swap over, with a good rust proofing and touch up. A full respray costs >£1000.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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SteveP
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by SteveP » 31 Dec 2012 12:59 pm

Throwing some money at it at this stage may not be a bad thing depending on a few factors! There are still rust free examples about (just) and they're realistically selling between £500-1500 being relatively generous. But you'd have to be patient and travel for one to come up. If you're talking financial sense its a no brainer to find a better one while the prices are low (eg. Very tidy GLS in offers for £800), but I know exactly what you mean about 'attachment'!

All depends on the extent of the rust (do you have any pictures?), how attached you are and whether you can find another example. I would also be doubly sure that the bodyshop knows what they're doing and have good reviews. I've had and known other people have work done to their cars and not been happy with the job, at which point it's usually too late!

Sounds like it's been a faithful old friend though! :) :360:
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux

Evoman
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by Evoman » 31 Dec 2012 02:12 pm

As you are emotionally attached to the car I wouldn't think about market value, I would think in terms of how much you value you it e.g. how much money would need to be offered to you for you to loose your attachment. If that figure is £1000+ then spend the money, if not then you should rethink. I couldn't justify spending £1000 on mine for welding but I am a poor student :P

If you do spend the £1000 its important you get the most out of it and its not wasted, like Steve says, find out as much as you can about who will weld it.

Good Luck :)
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brickie501
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Re: 360 GLT Daily Driver

Post by brickie501 » 31 Dec 2012 08:53 pm

For parts that need welder's attention; the front is the main problem. Other areas are NSF sill, holes in bulkhead/firewall in both front wheelarches, rear wheelarch / sills need doing properly (previous repairs by another that I am not happy with :roll:), pinholes in some doors, oh and a strange hole in the boot 'wall' to the left of the rear numberplate.

Doesn't look horrendous although I am well aware rust is usually worse than it looks (NB I'm a Land Rover owner too!) BTW Won't be 'shoestring' anymore whatever but the £1000 budget was plucked out of the air a bit & I'm hoping that's higher than the potential bill for welding so I can look at a few of my other ideas too.

I'm away from car but these pics from last year show the sort of state of the front:
brickie501 wrote: Image

Image
I do have some almost mint front wings I picked up from the local scrappy a while ago ... £20 but wrong colour (blue); who said respray!

I get the option of transfering running gear into a better shell but, as most have said, isn't it more likely I'd find a 340 which would require some mods anyway?

I think mine's worth saving (plus the fact it's a rarer saloon makes a difference) & my heart is probably going to rule my head anyway but I don't want to necessarily ignore the financial aspects.

Thanks for the replies so far & may I wish everyone a Happy New Year!!!

Ride_on
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Re: Daily Driver 360 GLT on a Shoestring

Post by Ride_on » 02 Jan 2013 12:24 am

What you've shown doesn't look that bad, mine was alot worse and I am restoring it for the value to me :-). I would certainly be replacing cosmetic panels like wings rather than repair. Front valence looks the most difficult. If the inner wings are still solid then clean them up inside and paint with a good rust proofing paint like Zinga or Rustoleum. For the rear the main concern would be the state of the sping mounts, cross box and sills. Sill replacement is a minorish project, consider it unless the rot is minor.

You need a good poke around with a screw driver and if the frame is still mainly solid then get some rust proofing in there (after any welding).
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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