My volvo 340 valver

[yetis340]

well i hope this is the right section for a project as there seems to be no section for one.

but anyway heres the 340 1.4 i bought from valman cheers dude


very good condition for what age it is but a very good starting ground for my conversion so im well happy:D

so the same day i picked up the 340 i got 16v lump after i dropped the car off.
2 birds one stone:)


so started to strip to engine down as i wasnt too sure on the history of it.




but things got worse and worse:( started with half a litre of water came out before the oil


then a nice rusty spark plug! along with the rest of it!!!




oh ignoring the rust you should see a crack the one of 6 in the block


so once i saw that i was on the phone returning the engine and a week later i got hold of another one this time out of a clio:D

[jon-ovlov]

very nice dude! Bugger bout the first engine, good thing you got everything back for it! keep the updates coming lad. Did you go for the 2.0ltr or the 1.8ltr?

[volvosneverdie]

Good buy man, that car looked awesome.
Shame about the first lump mind, but it doesnt seem to have knocked you back much!

Keep the updates up man, looks like its gonna be canny.

[yetis340]

Cheers guys

First lump I wad kinda expecting it as I Had a weird vibe from it, takes a lot more than that to stop me I normally just sleep on it and sort it out the next day:)

Went for the 1.8 ad it's cheaper as I have a s13 as a daily run about ATM lol so it's going to be a cheap one I hope .

The only thing I need help with really I think is the wiring, but I did find a wiring diagram on a thread posted by Andy p.

I have tried to contact him as I'm not sure on a few things but looks like he doesn't come on here any more:(

So looks like I may end up have to get the loom made up but that will be a last resort as thats cheating in my eyes!

im going to start from scratch with loom as there Is so much there as I reckon it would be easier.

So plan is
1. Rebuild enine
2. Fit engine into Volvo
3. Make a wiring loom from scratch
4.pray it works lol

[volvosneverdie]

You gonna run inj or carbs man?

[Chris_C]

Loom isn't too bad, as long as you got it all from a clio or 19

The thing that makes the most difference is making sure you run an non immobiliser ECU, either a 105 or 107 (valver/williams respectively) works in my car. Some lads have managed to get 103's working, I've a few indoors but can't suss a way of getting them to go at all, same with 101's.

[yetis340]

going to run injection better i think:)

so you have one too then chris? yea i have the 105 ecu phs1 so its all good but the wiring is fooked in places so it will do it some good when i rewire it:D

[Evoman]

Looking like quick progress good see, who is andy p? are you meaning adam P??

[volvosneverdie]

Looking like quick progress good see, who is andy p? are you meaning adam P??

No.

AndyP

[yetis340]

As he said above lol

[Chris_C]

Yeah, mine has done 20,000miles on that engine before I started snapping things, but that is pretty certainly down to weak engine mounts. I'm doing some static and dynamic loading tests on a few different sets of new mounts as well as my old ones atm, so havn't driven it since new years day

I run the stock ECU (a 105 I think currently, though 105's and 107's seem to be identical apart from EPROM programming) with a modified EPROM anyway. Take the ECU/engine loom, look at what sensors you need (pretty much every one is already bolted to the engine) and it all drops together. From memory you need a switched ignition, starter signal, speed signal and permanent live and ground to make it work but it was a while ago I did mine. Wiring diagrams of each end, work out what connects solely to the ECU and strip the rest that way it can all plug into the 340 standard looms. Then you just take the rev counter feed and oil idiot light from the ECU to the dash.

[SteveP]

Good effort, looks like a great base to start from with broken original engine and all. Shame about the first 16v lump!! Chris - is it true that the F7P's are a bit lighter on the drivetrain due to having less torque and a more revvy delivery?

[yetis340]

ok cool cheers for that chris but im a bit stuck on where the starter signal goes to on the starter and where do i get the speed signal from?

where are you located as it would be good if i could see yours

[yetis340]

right well theres a few more pics too add as i nearly passed out last night from being tired lol

well got it set up on the stand ready for a strip down well top end any way as i found there was a slight leak from the headgasket. here we go again lol


well heads off and all looks good at the mo




well i stripped the head down ready for a skim


the head almost bare didnt take any of it finished but you will see the results


started to look at the wiring loom as i know i dont need much off it to run but i think its a little over my head at this point.




sort of skipping back to the first engine i took the inlet manifold to be modified as the heater box would be in the way of the throttle body. looks the dogs well happy how it came out:D

[Chris_C]

Chris - is it true that the F7P's are a bit lighter on the drivetrain due to having less torque and a more revvy delivery?

I wouldn't like to put bets on it tbh, i did have a bit of a back of the envelope calculation that the internals of the 2.0 would make it heavier on the rear shear mounts, but how I'm convinced it's dynamic loading I'm not so sure.

Yeti, I'm in Southampton. The car should be moving again in the next few weeks. That manifold looks really nice, your welding skills?