Fail car

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jtbo
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 30 Jun 2013 02:45 pm

pettaw wrote:Rear light issue is the earth bar in the cluster. The earth for the combined stop/tail light bulb isn't working and its finding its ground through the other bulb.Just give the contact a good clean and all should be well.

The other stuff i'm not sure. When the resistor pack fails, usually all speeds fail. If its a fuse, then usually either speed 1 and 2 will both fail, or speed 3 on its own, but the other speeds should work. Of course the early resistor packs could be wired differently......To get the box open, you need to unclip the top cover, it should just winkle out, and then the pack should be underneath.

Hope that helps.
I think that this car has came with self healing option as rear lights seem to be operating perfectly now, but I will need to go trough all the connections anyway.

I'm afraid that top cover will become to hundred small pieces if I pull really hard, but maybe it does not then :D

Need to check fuses again, but I think all that were at engine bay fuse box were ok and I can't remember if there were another location for fuses, I think that it was only location, but need do bit of reading when I get top cover off and can get peek to resistor pack, so I can see if it does have issues or if issues are other places.

I did bit of waxing to 360 too as rear lights of 343 started to work without touching anything, well I did put Haynes book near to lights for overnight, maybe that helped too :lol:

That blue paint is getting really quickly non glossy, it is only some 7 years or maybe 8 since I did proper waxing last time:
Image

Also I did start 240 after 18 months or something like that, started like it would been just 18 seconds since it was last run, that 800 or something I did pay for rebuild of pump and tuneup must be worth something I guess.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7ATHpOuIGo
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 02 Jul 2013 08:33 pm

I believe that heater fan not working at 2 and 3 settings is because of switch failure, but I can't be certain yet, need to take apart center console to make enough space to reach to switch I believe. It is probably similar construction as light switch, maybe good cleaning would do the trick.

When I examined resistor pack and measured what leads that connects to it do, I did notice that only one wire actually did something, rest are dead, that is why I did though that it is the switch issue.

Then I got an idea to swap wires of 1 and 2 speeds at resistor pack end, so when I put switch to 1 fan blows at speed of 2 and when I put it to 2 it blows at speed of 1, not sure if that will overload something as current which speed 1 is designed is of course less and now it draws more current trough circuit as fan is rotating at speed of 2.

Odd thing did happen though, when I put switch to position 2 after testing it at position 1, it did actually work at speed 1 for a moment, I did hear faint click and it stopped then, but selecting 1 from switch does make fan run at speed 2, which probably will suffice at MOT as requirement is fan to be working with enough defrosting capability, that is even 343 with snow cap will not need fan at all most of the time.

I try to check switch but it is probably annoying work, including tight spaces, no ability see and too short wires, which makes me want to put that to hold until I find huge motivation to actually take apart all things needed.

Petrol gauge is not very alive, I did took sender out from the tank, float has petrol in it and as I did open sender unit, I did notice that it is very worn, I did make hack to 360, I think that I did turned metal wire thing around, but this one has it secured with rivets instead of screws and I only cleaned it a bit and bend bit that arm of float so that it compensates heaver float a bit. I get better reading, but it is not really good, I had 1/4 tank at least what I did eye from that hole and it is just above reserve mark. Also some previous tinkerer had broken one of the connectors and welded wire without connector, which made thing bit tricky, luckily there was bit of extra wire left so that it was possible to take sender out by removing filter inside the tank that was bit more exiting than I wanted it to be, dropping filter to tank would been a lost filter for sure.

While looking there, I did notice there are old fabric covered fuel hoses, originals probably from early 80's, which might be best to replace, fuel hoses are differently placed in 343 than 360 as fuel tank is at different location, so I need to get car up and examine a bit where to access other ends of the hoses before making them disappear between petrol tank and the car body.

Then I found out that engine is not running very steadily at idle, I did remember that I had new condenser and also though of cleaning points, while thinking that I did remember that I had not checked those sparkplugs, other than they do read Volvo.

So I did took spark plugs out, first one that is closest to cabin, it was very black and covered with soot, also it was bit loose and sealing ring was rusted, I did cleaned it and measured gap to be around 0.8mm, that should be ok according to Haynes for one type of plug, not sure if mine are that or those that needed 0.6mm gap, but I did checked and set all to 0.8mm, most had more gap.
I worked towards front and each of the plug was less black and more milk chocolate brown towards to front. Plug that was at front of the engine was not tightened at all, I could open it with fingers :shock:

After all were set cleaned and installed, I did start the motor and it did run bit better, but not much, still bit of idle hunting and every now and then shaking like attempting to stall, however when giving throttle it did responded well.

Next I did distributor and points, also installed new condenser that I had, could not find new points, there were multiple issues, I did manage to make spark disappear completely, took bit of cleaning and adjusting to find it again, I think that I put wrong grease to wrong place and also as I did sanded points gap might have changed, so I did adjust dwell too after cleaning the mess I made, it runs now better, but then I did read how to properly adjust dwell angle and that is probably I do tomorrow, I don't think that previous owner had set it correctly and I think that I did mess it up lot more, but should be much better when I get it adjusted properly and then I need to find graphite grease to lubricate properly that distributor, also need to find where my new set of points have gone, that might not hurt as there is not lot left in current ones.

I got suspicious about brake switch of vario system then, it is constantly closed so that resistance is infinity, I did wedge wooden plank between brake pedal and seat, but still same measurement, but I think it has been working before, need to check if I did measure it wrong way, I haven't had chance to drive up to speed so I would know if vario is working or not, but I guess that I get there at some point.

Also did fill tires to correct pressures.

Brakes, shocks, those are bit of mystery, but car does stop and shocks are as bad as they were when I bought the car and it had fresh MOT then.

I'm pretty certain there is no oil in right front shock and if there is some at left front shock, it is not a much, but I know 360 passed easily with no oil in shocks, if difference between sides is not too great it should pass, if I keep the car I of course will put new ones in, but not sure of that yet, ease to work and cheap prices of parts is really bit advantage even petrol consumption is way too great, however if I can get enough from other cars I keep this one, almost everything needs repairing, but still everything is relatively easy to repair.

I did fix lot of connection issues with electrics, especially with lights, but there is still lot to do. Need also more wd40 :lol:

There is also a ton of rust work to be done if I keep the car, also everything leaks, it is not holding much water outside and left door is missing quite bit of window seal, one that is between door frame and window, can't figure out how that had disappeared.

Would need new windshield, but also need to repair windshield surroundings, before can even think about new windshield, that is one of the most expensive things, some painting needed too, but I can do that myself, paint is just bit expensive and it is lot of work to prepare car to that point.
Anyway as there is no colour tint, windshield should be tad cheaper to get, installing is pain without helper, but also removing old one, repairing rust and putting old one back is as much work as putting new one in, as much of challenge, depends from money at that point which to do, also still it is not certain if I keep the car, but if I keep any car, it is probably going to be that 343 or some other 1.4 engine 343, one with manual transmission would be easier on petrol of course.
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 03 Jul 2013 03:55 pm

I did check points and ignition today, it appears that I had adjusted them spot on by the ear yesterday, not too bad, eh?

Today proceeded to check carb settings, I found out that idle speed adjustment had been screwed fully in, so that is lowest possible idle speed and still it was running bit too fast, also carb was wet and covered with black stuff, so I decided to do take apart clean and put back together with sealant procedure. Now I can turn idle speed bit open, so there is small adjustment range available, but it still is very small range, also at appropriate idle speed it does not run perfectly smooth. Maybe new plugs and points will cure that, also need to do oil + filter change, but then there is not much else to do, well HT leads, but haven't found never any fault in those and they are Bougicord.

Randomly few seconds apart it attempts to stall for split second and exhaust says puff, but it keeps going after that, also after starting it runs well, start easily, but issues start bit after starting, haven't touched mixture setting yet, smells rich, but acts like being lean, no issues when driving, except now as carb is not leaking anymore, initial press of throttle causes rpm to decrease and then gain rpm, like if suddenly would go very lean, but only when coming from idle to more throttle.

I still think about vacuum leaking, but there is not much possibilities for that, hoses are ok, only ones that connect to valve cover are bit loose, why vacuum hoses have to connect to valve cover?

Anyway I think that I will replace fuel hoses near tank, plugs and points before doing more examining on that issue. Oh yes, it can also be the coil issue as coil is old and rusted, it might not be quite as good as new.

CVT is still at low gear mode, or something like that, there is not much difference if I use low gear hold switch, can' really find any difference and CVT stops adjusting at 30kph, kind of, need to go trough it all again, I know that vacuum valve is clicking correct way but I need to measure vacuum again and do all bypass tests. I will jack up rear of the car and do some 'driving' that way while filming CVT system.

I had issue with 360 boot lock, it was constantly at locked position, cylinder came out easily, I did clean the lock from thick goo and it started actually working again, put it back in and now it is not attempting to escape that easily at least.

That car needs a lot of work, 240 did not look that bad until I got better look underside, I doubt I can weld unless I cut whole new center section :shock:

I'm still wondering a bit about why 343 puffs white smoke even when warm and when accelerating, also that one spark plug that was very black, maybe some pistonring issue, hard to say, but need to keep on eye of that possibility too. Oil change should be first thing to do, maybe also some new petrol. Hopefully I can get it to work properly without too costly things, we'll see that in upcoming episodes of fail car.
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Re: Fail car

Post by macplaxton » 04 Jul 2013 02:45 am

jtbo wrote:cylinder came out easily
Clip missing from the end of the barrel?
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 04 Jul 2013 02:21 pm

macplaxton wrote:
jtbo wrote:cylinder came out easily
Clip missing from the end of the barrel?
I believe so, it used to be good, but once I noticed cylinder attempts to came out with key, haven't bothered fixing that as I always keep it locked and it stays firmly on place when locked.

There was some very thick gray grease, not sure what that might of been, but cylinder needed good cleaning and oiling.

Has been hot day, not so much with temperature, but to get two trailer loads of firewood moved and also some more in boot of 240, tomorrow maybe I get to do CVT diagnosing, I found out that I did test brake sensor wrong way last time.
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 05 Jul 2013 02:30 pm

So, I did found hose that had came loose and connected that under the car, then found out that despite getting 12V to EMV coil it is not functioning and I'm pretty sure it has functioned before, but not anymore, EMV itself seem to be operational and I tested with test light EMV coil power leads, light did not lit, then I started noticing that there is voltage even when engine is not running, also found out there was negative voltage and did tests on 8 pin connector to find out that damn thing is broken.

It used to work, I'm sure of it, but again, I fix something to find out something else fails.

Need to order new parts from electronics shop, fix damn thing and find something else failing next, good thing is that DL has very few parts to fail :lol:
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 06 Jul 2013 07:58 pm

More fail!
This might not be for sensitive ones.

There was tiny hole at passenger footwell (driver footwell in uk), so had to lift carpet to be able to cut and weld without setting car to fire.

Let's see what lurks in here:
Image

WATER, loads of it, there is underground pool for electric wires and sound insulation materials in there!

Let's take carpet out and remove those sound proofing materials that are quite well in decomposed state, so we can see bit better...:
Image

Aha, what we have lurking in here, SECOND hole, how wonderfully it is position over boxed section and how nicely previous owner had removed few bits and moved them to side, in a car that had no more than one patch and rock hard bottom!

Yes and there are more water too, it is also dripping from the carpet, so there is quickly considerable pool for Olympic swimming forming to rear passenger foot area.

This is the first hole which made me lift the carpet in first place:
Image

Here metal bird had some poopoo over smaller first hole that I spotted underside, my wirebrush is still red, must be reason why metal bird does poo poo so often when I'm welding (more like attempting to weld), other ones have green wire brushes, I'm absolutely certain that it is the key to fail or success, depending from the colour:
Image

Boxed section has been fixed previously so that they have just put new metal patch over the hole, out of sight, out of mind, not sure if it can be seen from this pic:
Image
Image

I'm not going to write about my failure at using Plastic Padding to fill dents at edge of roof that I don't think can be fixed very well, or failure at using zink spray which lead failure to use thinner to remove some stains which appeared to door out of nowhere, or about success of using t-cut, machine and wax in removing all evidences of such imaginary event, even less about wet sanding scratch and failing using t-cut to remove sanding effects, while still having same kind of scratch.

At least managed to make one dent at hood bit smaller.

I might try to fail at attempting to pull roof dents by welding something to dent and making ghetto sliding hammer, that might provide some hilarious results.

It is odd how so nice looking car can be so total wreck, I might get it trough the MOT but that car will not last very long, no matter what I do, it would need new boxed sections and especially windshield surroundings, who knows what will become from CVT issues too, it might play dead still even when I get current issue in it repaired.

Oh yes, here are pics from video which refuses to upload, testing Tachometric relay, green and gray wire:
Ignition off:
Image

Ignition on, also same result when engine is running:
Image

This is when rpm is above 1800rpm:
Image

Tomorrow will be too hot to work with car, I will wait until next week to continue, but I think I would get 360 working much easier, however I would probably not want to sell it, but I could sell 343, so I still try to get it trough mot, but it is bit taunting when more you fix, more you find needing to be fixed and I have bit of deadline to meet.

Oh, I did not mention yet, when clearing minor surface rust I hit to that famous large white cloud of dust, few times :roll:
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Re: Fail car

Post by macplaxton » 06 Jul 2013 08:25 pm

jtbo wrote:Image
That looks like a rusty hole next to a manufacturing rectangular hole with a black plate sealed in.

They appear down either side of the car and they used them in the DAF days:

D66 left hand side of picture (RHS of boot):
Image
Rear End Repairs 012 by macplaxton, on Flickr

Same hole underneath:
Image
Rear End Repairs 018 by macplaxton, on Flickr

They just seemed to have black ridged plates pop-riveted over them:
Image

Found some Volvo ones:
Image
Image

Jani, you really need to do something about that red-handled brush! :lol: sm4
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 06 Jul 2013 09:03 pm

Yeah, it is one of those hatches at front of the seat, I did not bother to clear all sound proofing, thought that I can practise my welding there as well. Rust had eaten that little door and immediate area next to it, so I did cut as much that I could without cutting boxed section and made patch resembling shape of texas to fit in.

I wonder if matte blacking wire brush handle would work? :lol:

Also found out that rear left and right front tires barely turn as brakes stick a bit, haven't checked left front, but no wonder pulling trailer with 500kg firewood uphill was somewhat heavy task for the car.

I think that I have done repairs from every section of Haynes book for this car when this will pass MOT. Number 4 spark plug is still getting black and there is visible smoke from exaust pipe at idle and quite puff of smoke when loading engine, I hope it is only stuck oil ring, but that is not really helping much with the workload. Oh and boot lid is also leaking one, rear lights and area behind bumper is soaked wet.

Car has had antenna for radio, but only base remains, antenna itself has gone.

Windshield is also cracked.

133 000 km, that is less than 83 000 miles and there barely is anything in car that does not need repairing, that is bit odd, imo, especially as car looks so decent, also it has a lot better steering than in 360. This level of everything failing in car is so bad that it really starts to be hilarious :lol:

I did thought that I need to do only bit of electric work, but it appears that I need to repair every bit that is in car. Well, no problem, should be ready at end of month at latest, together with 240 :D
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 07 Jul 2013 09:14 pm

Today only little helper was working with car, but as you can see, she did only polish her nails whole day, damn bloodsuckers, always demanding more pay while loitering at work instead of working :x

She was green one, so I thought that hiring green one would work better as green wirebrush clearly leads to better success, but I guess not.
Image

Did I mentioned how someone had put filler over old rust and some paint over that, instead of actually taking rust out first? Yeah, really, what they were thinking?
Image

I'm not all too sure that car will see MOT if I'm completely honest, there is so much repairing that I probably don't have time for all that. I'm really thinking now that maybe I should just take good bits out and trashmetal rest, but maybe my mind will steer away from that after calming down a bit, anyway it is really lot of work that car needs as there is ton of rust hidden away with suspicious methods and there is probably a lot more to be found.

Only good bit is interior, which I doubt is probably from some other car...
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Re: Fail car

Post by Chris_C » 07 Jul 2013 10:15 pm

I know it's likely not what you want to hear given the current progress Jani...

But on a non car related front, that is a lovely photo. What sort of insect is it?

The floor pan rust you found is the same as I had on Fake, the box that is under there makes that a pain I know. Keep at it mate.
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 07 Jul 2013 11:01 pm

Chris_C wrote:I know it's likely not what you want to hear given the current progress Jani...

But on a non car related front, that is a lovely photo. What sort of insect is it?

The floor pan rust you found is the same as I had on Fake, the box that is under there makes that a pain I know. Keep at it mate.
I don't know english name of that insect, but they circle over your head, land on your shoulder, cut hole to shirt and the skin and lick your blood, it stings quite a bit and there is some sort of inflammation. They smell blood about mile away.

Tabanidae is scientific family name, now I found out that they are called horse fly in english, horse flies I believe when talking from general group of them instead of single specimen.

That one in pic is one of the larger ones we have here, never seen green one before actually, usually they are grey/brown, some smaller ones are grey and have small wings, those are hard to spot before they do bite, but rest of them are quite easy to spot and relatively stupid, common fly is harder to kill most of the time.

I usually set something fire when working with the car, smell of smoke makes them avoid the area, maybe even mask my bleeding knuckles, so they are not much of bother then.


That hole over boxed section, I think best is to clean stuff out over boxed section too, as far until I find hard floor, then make a patch that has some holes where boxed section is, so I can weld boxed section to patch and patch to surrounding floor, my attempts of welding from underside have not been very successful, there is too much black stuff that is too soft, but I think that welding from aboves is as good, I can then weld under if needed, as welding from above will burn some black stuff away.

doing both sills, all wheel arches to some extent, floor and some support beam areas, it is quite a lot and I'm not sure if I can afford all that now, unless there is some sort of miracle.
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Re: Fail car

Post by Chris_C » 08 Jul 2013 09:22 am

Ahhh, yes, we have horse fly's too. Not super common though.

Welding, make sure you leave (or drill, into your patches) some holes that can be bunged with a rubber bung so that you can abuse the inside with paint and dinatrol. Otherwise it will all be a waste in a couple of years
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 08 Jul 2013 04:38 pm

I did found palm size round about 1cm thick white sticky goo from left front footwell, it was between bitumen and that soft sound proofing material, below that I found rusty hole in making.

Structure there is different from how it is other side, it was bit away from front jacking point, there was sheetmetal below the car and on top of that was car's floor metal, but that sheet below was not welded at least a much, haven't removed black goo yet so don't know too well, but it appears to be that there are several layers of metal near jacking point.

Only one small hole, should be easy enough to fix.

Car needs complete respray, I'm quite sure about it, there is so many marks and rusty spots all over that only way to make it decent would be respray.

Also might need new brake cylinders and calipers, I did open one rear brake, it was not leaking, but also pistons were not moving at all, it did require lot of wd40 and tapping with a sledgehammer to get them to move, of course damage was too extensive and they are not holding brake fluid anymore and still are not moving quite perfectly, but maybe enough for mot, or not. I did also open one front brake, piston is sticking a bit but it works somewhat, cleaning brake pad surfaces and sliding bits seemed to help a bit, only one front needs doing now and brakes might work without sticking, but for mot, might be better to replace all those bits, but can't really afford that, so might try MOT with french first and then attempting to sell that one, then I could afford bit of paint, brake bits and such for 343 and get that trough mot and to sale.

However I'm going to take out snow cap and headlights and swap those to 360 which I plan to garage next winter after I get bottom patched :twisted:
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Re: Fail car

Post by jtbo » 08 Jul 2013 09:36 pm

I'm not completely sure if there should be weld at hand brake arm lever, also I doubt that those rear shocks are much good, but they have passed MOT less than 100km ago. Also I'm pretty sure there is no any kind of shock at right front, there is no any resistance at all:
Image

Door has been 'fixed' with rather amusing way:
Image
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