I believe that heater fan not working at 2 and 3 settings is because of switch failure, but I can't be certain yet, need to take apart center console to make enough space to reach to switch I believe. It is probably similar construction as light switch, maybe good cleaning would do the trick.
When I examined resistor pack and measured what leads that connects to it do, I did notice that only one wire actually did something, rest are dead, that is why I did though that it is the switch issue.
Then I got an idea to swap wires of 1 and 2 speeds at resistor pack end, so when I put switch to 1 fan blows at speed of 2 and when I put it to 2 it blows at speed of 1, not sure if that will overload something as current which speed 1 is designed is of course less and now it draws more current trough circuit as fan is rotating at speed of 2.
Odd thing did happen though, when I put switch to position 2 after testing it at position 1, it did actually work at speed 1 for a moment, I did hear faint click and it stopped then, but selecting 1 from switch does make fan run at speed 2, which probably will suffice at MOT as requirement is fan to be working with enough defrosting capability, that is even 343 with snow cap will not need fan at all most of the time.
I try to check switch but it is probably annoying work, including tight spaces, no ability see and too short wires, which makes me want to put that to hold until I find huge motivation to actually take apart all things needed.
Petrol gauge is not very alive, I did took sender out from the tank, float has petrol in it and as I did open sender unit, I did notice that it is very worn, I did make hack to 360, I think that I did turned metal wire thing around, but this one has it secured with rivets instead of screws and I only cleaned it a bit and bend bit that arm of float so that it compensates heaver float a bit. I get better reading, but it is not really good, I had 1/4 tank at least what I did eye from that hole and it is just above reserve mark. Also some previous tinkerer had broken one of the connectors and welded wire without connector, which made thing bit tricky, luckily there was bit of extra wire left so that it was possible to take sender out by removing filter inside the tank that was bit more exiting than I wanted it to be, dropping filter to tank would been a lost filter for sure.
While looking there, I did notice there are old fabric covered fuel hoses, originals probably from early 80's, which might be best to replace, fuel hoses are differently placed in 343 than 360 as fuel tank is at different location, so I need to get car up and examine a bit where to access other ends of the hoses before making them disappear between petrol tank and the car body.
Then I found out that engine is not running very steadily at idle, I did remember that I had new condenser and also though of cleaning points, while thinking that I did remember that I had not checked those sparkplugs, other than they do read Volvo.
So I did took spark plugs out, first one that is closest to cabin, it was very black and covered with soot, also it was bit loose and sealing ring was rusted, I did cleaned it and measured gap to be around 0.8mm, that should be ok according to Haynes for one type of plug, not sure if mine are that or those that needed 0.6mm gap, but I did checked and set all to 0.8mm, most had more gap.
I worked towards front and each of the plug was less black and more milk chocolate brown towards to front. Plug that was at front of the engine was not tightened at all, I could open it with fingers
After all were set cleaned and installed, I did start the motor and it did run bit better, but not much, still bit of idle hunting and every now and then shaking like attempting to stall, however when giving throttle it did responded well.
Next I did distributor and points, also installed new condenser that I had, could not find new points, there were multiple issues, I did manage to make spark disappear completely, took bit of cleaning and adjusting to find it again, I think that I put wrong grease to wrong place and also as I did sanded points gap might have changed, so I did adjust dwell too after cleaning the mess I made, it runs now better, but then I did read how to properly adjust dwell angle and that is probably I do tomorrow, I don't think that previous owner had set it correctly and I think that I did mess it up lot more, but should be much better when I get it adjusted properly and then I need to find graphite grease to lubricate properly that distributor, also need to find where my new set of points have gone, that might not hurt as there is not lot left in current ones.
I got suspicious about brake switch of vario system then, it is constantly closed so that resistance is infinity, I did wedge wooden plank between brake pedal and seat, but still same measurement, but I think it has been working before, need to check if I did measure it wrong way, I haven't had chance to drive up to speed so I would know if vario is working or not, but I guess that I get there at some point.
Also did fill tires to correct pressures.
Brakes, shocks, those are bit of mystery, but car does stop and shocks are as bad as they were when I bought the car and it had fresh MOT then.
I'm pretty certain there is no oil in right front shock and if there is some at left front shock, it is not a much, but I know 360 passed easily with no oil in shocks, if difference between sides is not too great it should pass, if I keep the car I of course will put new ones in, but not sure of that yet, ease to work and cheap prices of parts is really bit advantage even petrol consumption is way too great, however if I can get enough from other cars I keep this one, almost everything needs repairing, but still everything is relatively easy to repair.
I did fix lot of connection issues with electrics, especially with lights, but there is still lot to do. Need also more wd40
There is also a ton of rust work to be done if I keep the car, also everything leaks, it is not holding much water outside and left door is missing quite bit of window seal, one that is between door frame and window, can't figure out how that had disappeared.
Would need new windshield, but also need to repair windshield surroundings, before can even think about new windshield, that is one of the most expensive things, some painting needed too, but I can do that myself, paint is just bit expensive and it is lot of work to prepare car to that point.
Anyway as there is no colour tint, windshield should be tad cheaper to get, installing is pain without helper, but also removing old one, repairing rust and putting old one back is as much work as putting new one in, as much of challenge, depends from money at that point which to do, also still it is not certain if I keep the car, but if I keep any car, it is probably going to be that 343 or some other 1.4 engine 343, one with manual transmission would be easier on petrol of course.