some problems
some problems
got a few problems with my 360, pulls slightly to the right, vibrates massively when i brake, and generally all the time, just worse when i brake.
i thought the brake disks may have been the problem, so i changed them, that did not work at all
i know the steering rod thingy is damaged and needs to be changed, doing that sometime next week
the last thing is that it eats tires, put on a new set of michelin tires 4 or so weeks ago, and they are like slicks on the inside now, is this because of the steering rod thingy?
or could it be the strut that is damaged? cant say i can see any camber on it (its the front suspension im talking about, if someone doubted)
any thoughts is appreciated
Tim.
i thought the brake disks may have been the problem, so i changed them, that did not work at all
i know the steering rod thingy is damaged and needs to be changed, doing that sometime next week
the last thing is that it eats tires, put on a new set of michelin tires 4 or so weeks ago, and they are like slicks on the inside now, is this because of the steering rod thingy?
or could it be the strut that is damaged? cant say i can see any camber on it (its the front suspension im talking about, if someone doubted)
any thoughts is appreciated
Tim.
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
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Re: some problems
Check the alignment, wear on the inside means that you either have massive negative camber, or the front wheels are facing like this \==/(topside view). This could be causing the front suspension to vibrate under braking too. Also well worth taking a look at play in the balljoints, if you lift the wheels off the ground and move them horizotal and vertically you shouldn't feel any noticable movement
Re: some problems
Sounds like there are alot of problems, you need to check the car properly and replace any damaged/worn/tired items and ensure the adjustments are down properly. Almost none of the suspension wear parts will last for 25 years. This is fairly basic servicing and required for a car this age. A Haynes manual is a good start, read the entire suspension and steering section.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: some problems
there is some horizontal movement, thats why i need to change steering rod (what its called here anyway, the one connected to the balljoint for steering) balljoint seems to be okay, but im changing that one tovolvodspec wrote:Check the alignment, wear on the inside means that you either have massive negative camber, or the front wheels are facing like this \==/(topside view). This could be causing the front suspension to vibrate under braking too. Also well worth taking a look at play in the balljoints, if you lift the wheels off the ground and move them horizotal and vertically you shouldn't feel any noticable movement
but the only reason for negative camber is the struts, or am i wrong? no camber adjustment can be done?
and i think my wheels stand like \==/ or |==/ since the right one seems to be the one with broken parts
costs 1000-1500 kr to get the alignment checked here, and cant afford that right now, so have to get it checked later
Last edited by tim-andre on 22 Nov 2012 12:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
Re: some problems
i have checked everything under the car a couple of times (every thing that should be straight, wich it looks like it is)Ride_on wrote:Sounds like there are alot of problems, you need to check the car properly and replace any damaged/worn/tired items and ensure the adjustments are down properly. Almost none of the suspension wear parts will last for 25 years. This is fairly basic servicing and required for a car this age. A Haynes manual is a good start, read the entire suspension and steering section.
i have started to get some parts changed (steering rods and balljoints ordered) but will other worn bushings cause this problem?
haynes manual always seems like a good place to start, but i like getting other peoples experience on this to
thanks for the replies
Tim
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
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Re: some problems
You can't properly change a steering rack balljoint without getting the alignment checked/adjusted..
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Re: some problems
Tracking can be checked DIY http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Lase ... 43b3f5cdff
Castor, Camber is more complicated but getting your tracking setup will be agood start.
Castor, Camber is more complicated but getting your tracking setup will be agood start.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Re: some problems
awesome, thats good news..volvodspec wrote:You can't properly change a steering rack balljoint without getting the alignment checked/adjusted..
i think that would be a good buy, but i think i will check with someone i know if they have/can borrow/can do it on work or somethingclassicswede wrote:Tracking can be checked DIY http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Lase ... 43b3f5cdff
Castor, Camber is more complicated but getting your tracking setup will be agood start.
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
Re: some problems
You can check toe with tape measure too.
Caster is bit difficult, but with creative mind anything is possible, you need one of these though, don't know how they are called, but this model has some essential features in it that are often missed:
Camber is also something that can be measured on level ground with that tool and tape measure.
Of course some math might be needed to get angles. Autodata says that caster or camber are not possible to adjust at all.
I had tire worm in 240, lost set of tires in 1000km, but alignment cured that.
Caster is bit difficult, but with creative mind anything is possible, you need one of these though, don't know how they are called, but this model has some essential features in it that are often missed:
Camber is also something that can be measured on level ground with that tool and tape measure.
Of course some math might be needed to get angles. Autodata says that caster or camber are not possible to adjust at all.
I had tire worm in 240, lost set of tires in 1000km, but alignment cured that.
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Re: some problems
vesivaaka / vatupassi (pullonavaaja)?jtbo wrote:don't know how they are called
(spirit level with bottle opener)
Re: some problems
Tanks for the tipjtbo wrote:You can check toe with tape measure too.
Caster is bit difficult, but with creative mind anything is possible, you need one of these though, don't know how they are called, but this model has some essential features in it that are often missed:
Camber is also something that can be measured on level ground with that tool and tape measure.
Of course some math might be needed to get angles. Autodata says that caster or camber are not possible to adjust at all.
I had tire worm in 240, lost set of tires in 1000km, but alignment cured that.
I know, without bending anything anyway
Its called "vater" in norway
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
Re: some problems
steering rack balljoint and other bits have been changed, worked awesome
vibrating when braking and massive wheel woble almost gone, rest is because of some worn bushings i believe, also the auto right steere is almost gone, wich is new for me, so i kinda keep steering to left left still (goes as much to the right as to the left now btw, depending on the roads)
new bushings and getting the alignment checked in a couple of months hopefully
vibrating when braking and massive wheel woble almost gone, rest is because of some worn bushings i believe, also the auto right steere is almost gone, wich is new for me, so i kinda keep steering to left left still (goes as much to the right as to the left now btw, depending on the roads)
new bushings and getting the alignment checked in a couple of months hopefully
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
Re: some problems
The constant vibration could be down to wearing engine mounts too
Own:
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
86 360GLT
97 S90
92 960S, Royal
01 Subaru Lancaster 6
96 Volvo 854R
Owned
E90 320 M-sport wagon
S60T -Mazda Familia
850lpt -AU Falcon
855T5 -91, 95, 97 960
940TIC -Mitsi GTO TT
16x 360-Toyota corolla
Toyota corona-R32 Skyline
V70R -V70T5
Re: some problems
hopefully notLogan360 wrote:The constant vibration could be down to wearing engine mounts too
anywhere i can get new engine mounts btw?
think i just need to get the wheels balanced, since its just at 100 and up its kind of wobly
and the same with braking, some vibrating in the brake pedal, with or without having it in gear
War isnt about who is right, but who is left
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Re: some problems
I have engine mounts and all the bushes.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/