got a few problems with my 360, pulls slightly to the right, vibrates massively when i brake, and generally all the time, just worse when i brake.
i thought the brake disks may have been the problem, so i changed them, that did not work at all
i know the steering rod thingy is damaged and needs to be changed, doing that sometime next week
the last thing is that it eats tires, put on a new set of michelin tires 4 or so weeks ago, and they are like slicks on the inside now, is this because of the steering rod thingy?
or could it be the strut that is damaged? cant say i can see any camber on it (its the front suspension im talking about, if someone doubted)

any thoughts is appreciated

Tim.

Check the alignment, wear on the inside means that you either have massive negative camber, or the front wheels are facing like this \==/(topside view). This could be causing the front suspension to vibrate under braking too. Also well worth taking a look at play in the balljoints, if you lift the wheels off the ground and move them horizotal and vertically you shouldn't feel any noticable movement

Sounds like there are alot of problems, you need to check the car properly and replace any damaged/worn/tired items and ensure the adjustments are down properly. Almost none of the suspension wear parts will last for 25 years. This is fairly basic servicing and required for a car this age. A Haynes manual is a good start, read the entire suspension and steering section.

volvodspec wrote:Check the alignment, wear on the inside means that you either have massive negative camber, or the front wheels are facing like this \==/(topside view). This could be causing the front suspension to vibrate under braking too. Also well worth taking a look at play in the balljoints, if you lift the wheels off the ground and move them horizotal and vertically you shouldn't feel any noticable movement

there is some horizontal movement, thats why i need to change steering rod (what its called here anyway, the one connected to the balljoint for steering) balljoint seems to be okay, but im changing that one to
but the only reason for negative camber is the struts, or am i wrong? no camber adjustment can be done?
and i think my wheels stand like \==/ or |==/ since the right one seems to be the one with broken parts
costs 1000-1500 kr to get the alignment checked here, and cant afford that right now, so have to get it checked later

Ride_on wrote:Sounds like there are alot of problems, you need to check the car properly and replace any damaged/worn/tired items and ensure the adjustments are down properly. Almost none of the suspension wear parts will last for 25 years. This is fairly basic servicing and required for a car this age. A Haynes manual is a good start, read the entire suspension and steering section.

i have checked everything under the car a couple of times (every thing that should be straight, wich it looks like it is)
i have started to get some parts changed (steering rods and balljoints ordered) but will other worn bushings cause this problem?
haynes manual always seems like a good place to start, but i like getting other peoples experience on this to

thanks for the replies

Tim

You can't properly change a steering rack balljoint without getting the alignment checked/adjusted..

Tracking can be checked DIY http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Lase ... 43b3f5cdff

Castor, Camber is more complicated but getting your tracking setup will be agood start.

volvodspec wrote:You can't properly change a steering rack balljoint without getting the alignment checked/adjusted..

awesome, thats good news..

classicswede wrote:Tracking can be checked DIY http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trackace-Lase ... 43b3f5cdff

Castor, Camber is more complicated but getting your tracking setup will be agood start.

i think that would be a good buy, but i think i will check with someone i know if they have/can borrow/can do it on work or something

You can check toe with tape measure too.

Caster is bit difficult, but with creative mind anything is possible, you need one of these though, don't know how they are called, but this model has some essential features in it that are often missed:


Camber is also something that can be measured on level ground with that tool and tape measure.

Of course some math might be needed to get angles. Autodata says that caster or camber are not possible to adjust at all.

I had tire worm in 240, lost set of tires in 1000km, but alignment cured that.

jtbo wrote:don't know how they are called

vesivaaka / vatupassi (pullonavaaja)?

(spirit level with bottle opener)

jtbo wrote:You can check toe with tape measure too.

Caster is bit difficult, but with creative mind anything is possible, you need one of these though, don't know how they are called, but this model has some essential features in it that are often missed:


Camber is also something that can be measured on level ground with that tool and tape measure.

Of course some math might be needed to get angles. Autodata says that caster or camber are not possible to adjust at all.

I had tire worm in 240, lost set of tires in 1000km, but alignment cured that.

Tanks for the tip
I know, without bending anything anyway
Its called "vater" in norway

steering rack balljoint and other bits have been changed, worked awesome
vibrating when braking and massive wheel woble almost gone, rest is because of some worn bushings i believe, also the auto right steere is almost gone, wich is new for me, so i kinda keep steering to left left still (goes as much to the right as to the left now btw, depending on the roads)
new bushings and getting the alignment checked in a couple of months hopefully

The constant vibration could be down to wearing engine mounts too

Logan360 wrote:The constant vibration could be down to wearing engine mounts too

hopefully not
anywhere i can get new engine mounts btw?
think i just need to get the wheels balanced, since its just at 100 and up its kind of wobly
and the same with braking, some vibrating in the brake pedal, with or without having it in gear

I have engine mounts and all the bushes.