Jacking points for 340 1.4 1986
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Jacking points for 340 1.4 1986
I'm looking for some advice on where is best to use the trolley jack and axle stand on the front and the rear Tia
Re: Jacking points for 340 1.4 1986
Hello, rear is quite easy because you can use the rear cross-member or under the central spring shackles. I always pop a piece of wood between the jack and the car for safety's sake. Front is a bit harder but you can jack-up carefully using the box-sections that run from back to front, as shown below. You deffo need a flat piece of wood between the jack and the chassis for this or it will dent the metal.
And remember, the nanny in me comes our again, never get under a car supported only by a jack. You need solid blocks or axle stands and all the wheels must be chocked-up with handbrake brake on. You can do something a bit dodgy at the front with the subframe like this and blocks under the engine sump, not taking any weight, but just there in case the car falls:
Axle stands for the rear cross-member are pretty easy:
And remember, the nanny in me comes our again, never get under a car supported only by a jack. You need solid blocks or axle stands and all the wheels must be chocked-up with handbrake brake on. You can do something a bit dodgy at the front with the subframe like this and blocks under the engine sump, not taking any weight, but just there in case the car falls:
Axle stands for the rear cross-member are pretty easy:
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!