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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 04 Apr 2008 07:04 pm

nice work! - what primer and paint did you use, as I have some wheels to do soon.

Cheers

Jason
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 04 Apr 2008 08:12 pm

Jason B wrote:have you taken the front shocks out before? I just swapped my monos in the other day, and a good method without special tools is as follows:

get the strut out, put the damper nut in a vice (strut upside down) then put a bar on track rod bit to help give some leverage to undo it. Then once off you will be confronted with a strange looking fitting, use a screwdriver and a hammer to get it undone (gently, lol) once thats unscrewed you can proceed with the fun bit. Simply pull the piston out ;) - the seal makes this a little harder and it is quite possible to shoot 20yr old oil in your face :)

I suggest you measure the amount of oil you pour out if you are changing it, obvious but easily forgotten

Jason wtf would you want to measure how much oil you pour out when fitting a new shock. ALL new shocks are cartdide shocks including those mono's so you don't want any oil in there. With the Mono some grease would be good - the oil will dilute the grease and cause a lack of lubrication.

Good luck

Jason
Dai

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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 04 Apr 2008 08:27 pm

lol - read! :P

of course you wouldn't put oil back if fitting a cartridge type insert!!! - he is replacing the oil for some with a higher viscocity in an attempt to make them stiffer.
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 05 Apr 2008 08:47 am

But you need bit of oil inside a strut, that will try to keep shock and strut becoming one piece of metal or something :P
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 05 Apr 2008 11:51 am

Ok that makes sense now to what you are on about.

All I can say be carfull with what oil you put in. Also bear in mind the valves in the original shocks will be worn and not working as well as they should (also stem wear is a big issue)
Make sure you clean the area of the nut off befor opening. A little bit of muck in the oil could result in the damper locking solid.
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Ozbrick
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Post by Ozbrick » 07 Apr 2008 08:54 am

griffo20022 wrote:Quick update, Landy shocks are on yay!



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And thats HOW for now!
How did the shocks go from being short and fat (landy comparo pic) to equal length like with the 300 ones above??? Do I have to buy the raised shocks??
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 07 Apr 2008 01:26 pm

They look longer than 300 ones - that could cause some issues
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griffo20022
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Post by griffo20022 » 07 Apr 2008 01:33 pm

The pic of both shocks together is of both of them fully extended. There standard height shocks, no additional lift on them

As for the wheels they were sprayed all with rattle cans, as I say on close inspection there a little untidy in places but we only had 3, 4 hour sessions on them so was a bit rushed, but they still look awsome!

Primer was grey, then we done the dish which was yellow on the bottom with the orange, red and green flecked over the top. Then we masked off the dish and done the rear of the wheel and face/spokes of the wheel with gloss black, then gave them a little bit of lacquer over the top
'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon

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Jason B
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Post by Jason B » 07 Apr 2008 06:16 pm

what prep did you do, just sand it back? - going to have a go tomorrow maybe (though not crazy colours like yours)
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power

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griffo20022
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Post by griffo20022 » 07 Apr 2008 09:19 pm

Yer pretty much, they were originally silver with polished lip (one was white with polished lip) they were really tatty though!

Began with using nitromors and a wire brush on a drill, then sanded with 320 and then with 600

then from there just primer etc.
'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon

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