Quick tuning advice

Post by **Ronnie** » 20 Mar 2008 08:56 pm

Ditch the stupid air intake - bolt a cone onto the MAF. Fit Denso Iridium IW20 plugs for a couple of extra ponies. Cheap mods and you'll notice the difference.

Post by **Ozbrick** » 21 Mar 2008 04:38 am

Block the oil breather hose that breathes into the hot air intake, it increases exhaust flow and you'll notice an immediate power jump and exhaust sound increase.

Post by **swordfish210** » 21 Mar 2008 10:48 am

excellent, i'll be sure to so that, thanks

Post by **swordfish210** » 21 Mar 2008 10:14 pm

Ok, i set the car up on our college's SuperTracker and the front toe was at 2mm toe in, the manual suggests that it should be at 4mm to in so i pulled it in a bit to get the whole suspension to book figures. It's probably just my imagination but the front end feels a little tighter now

I also removed the hot air pipe and the breather pipes from the air box. I blocked off the resulting holes and then i set about on the interior. I removed my sterio (i dont use it anyway as one of the speakers is blown) and i removed the floor mats. I also pulled out all of the crap that i inadvertently carry around with me on a daily basis and i weighed it all in at just over 6kg's. I also removed the mudflaps and then i gave the thing a good clean and polish.

I have pumped the tyres up to 35f and 37r but i might go up later on in the day.

I'll let you all know how i get on tomorrow evening and i should have a few vids to show you as well

Post by **Jason B** » 21 Mar 2008 10:18 pm

best of luck!

Post by **Fuse** » 21 Mar 2008 11:17 pm

Ozbrick wrote:Block the oil breather hose that breathes into the hot air intake, it increases exhaust flow and you'll notice an immediate power jump and exhaust sound increase.

Surely you don't mean to block the breather hose completely. You'll eventually blow seals somewhere if the pressure won't get out anywhere.

You can run the breather hose under the car though or in to a catch can so breather gases and vapor won't go in to the engine.. But you can't block the breather completely...

Or what breather are you talking about, one which is coming under the intake manifold from the black box? Blocking that is a big no no.

And don't bolt on a cone straight on to the MAF.. It will just suck hot air and most likely will give worse results than the stock filter.. Volvo stock filters have quite a large area for stock filters, but the intake piping in the filter box is usually restrictive. Running a larger pipe from the stock box to the front of the car is better in most cases than a cone filter which just adds more noise and sucks hot air.

I've got AEM cone filter because I could'nt fit anything stock in without moving the battery to the trunk. I would've fitted 740 turbo airbox (which is huuuge) but it didn't fit so I had to put a cone filter in..

Our ex-GL Turbo had the stock box with some intake mods and it flowed more than enough, so in most cases the cone filter just adds more noise and it feels more powerfull because of the noise.

Good test is to drive a car shortly without any filter, just a straight pipe or similiar. Then you'll see what's the maximum effect fiddling with the intake filters would be.

Usually it's not notable.

Post by **Ronnie** » 22 Mar 2008 12:32 am

I definitely got more usable power by deleting the OEM air box and bolting a cone filter onto the MAF via a 90 degree bend down into the airstream at the front of the car. Cone is oiled. Induction sound is nice too

Post by **SteveP** » 22 Mar 2008 01:30 am

Can't say my ricer air filter on the end of the MAF makes any more difference than noise, infact it's beginning to annoy me and I'll probably put the stock induction stuff back.... I doubt I'll be able to feel any difference.

Anyway, this is a carb'd car we're talking about

Post by **jtbo** » 22 Mar 2008 09:27 am

Small mods to airbox can give you more than you get with freeflow cone + engine will get cleaner air.

1. Get new quality brand air filter

2. Remove that hot/cold flap from front of airbox

3. install air tube from front fog light hole to airbox

Now you have cool CAIRAM-induction kit installed.

Also you could find green panel filter very handy.

Remember that preheating (that hot cold flap and hot air tube from exhaust) is essential in damp and cold weather, especially if you have a carb, it will not run smooth at part throttle if removed completely.

Post by **Ronnie** » 22 Mar 2008 09:38 am

SteveP wrote:Anyway, this is a carb'd car we're talking about

Ahhhh, that's different then...

Post by **classicswede** » 22 Mar 2008 01:42 pm

Stick some super unleaded in if no one has mentioned it

Post by **swordfish210** » 22 Mar 2008 08:21 pm

classicswede wrote:Stick some super unleaded in if no one has mentioned it

that makes kack all difference unless you advance the ignition timing to suit, waste of money really.

Anyway, the track day went fine, i'll start as new thread

Post by **Ronnie** » 22 Mar 2008 09:07 pm

swordfish210 wrote:
classicswede wrote:Stick some super unleaded in if no one has mentioned it
that makes kack all difference unless you advance the ignition timing to suit, waste of money really.

Depends what year your motor is - most 300's were optomised for **** - and 95 RON unleaded just doesn't cut it

Post by **Cloud** » 22 Mar 2008 11:33 pm

Service her (If someone ain't already said it) flushed and changed the oil in my Fiesta today...what a difference.

Post by **classicswede** » 25 Mar 2008 10:35 pm

swordfish210 wrote:
classicswede wrote:Stick some super unleaded in if no one has mentioned it
that makes kack all difference unless you advance the ignition timing to suit, waste of money really.

Anyway, the track day went fine, i'll start as new thread

timing is already set for higher octane fuel anyway - it does make a difference