360 GLT buyer's guide
360 GLT buyer's guide
Hi all, been away from the 300 scene for some time. I'm going to have a look at a 360 GLT and was wondering if there is a buyer's guide on here on elsewhere on the internet. What are the major factors to consider whilst looking for a decent GLT. Thanks very much
1988 - Volvo 340LE : 38,000 claimed but who knows?
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classicswede
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Rick,
not sure on a quide buy this question has come up before.
Where abouts is the car?
not sure on a quide buy this question has come up before.
Where abouts is the car?
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
There are three main things to check when buying a 300
1. Rust
2. Rust
3. Rust
Common spots are around the front and rear jacking points, sills, front turrets, boot area, bottoms of doors/wings, front & rear valences, inner front wings. Around the front screen, which is very difficult to fix. Occasionally A pillars. Check the arches, you often see it on the rim but rot right above the wheels is actually relatively rare, and floor panels are usually solid.
Mechanically these are pretty bullet proof. Check for usual stuff like smoke, chatter and mayonnaise walk away if you see it. Don't be put off too much if the car's been abused - a lot of them have been, especially in later life, but do factor in the cost of all the consumables you'll have to put right after you buy it ie exhaust, tyres, brakes, service items.
Dont worry too much if the steering feels a bit vague - there's a rubber in non-PAS cars which always gives out but is a cheap fix. Even a new rack can be had for 50 odd quid if it comes to it.
Despite all the talk on here about fabricating a custom transmission for the 300, they are really quite solid for normal use. Don't be put off by a little clutch judder at the start of your test drive if cold, this is normal. Gear change is unusual on the 300, but just takes getting used to, it doesn't like to be punched, just *snicked* into place... hard to explain, but once you're used to it, it really feels quite satisfying.
The GLT's the best choice in my very humble opinion. GLT specific stuff - electric windows are often slow, and may need reconditioned motors. This is really quite common. Dodgy central locking can usually be sorted with a bit of fiddling only. Many folk complain of rough running on Mk3 GLTS (the one's with wrap-round bumpers), but doesn't seem to be so much of a problem on Mk2's (the ones with indicators on the front wings). This goes away once warm.
Give a shout out on the list if you're going to view and someone local who knows these cars well might be able to tag along in exchange for a pint or two later.
Good luck with the search.
1. Rust
2. Rust
3. Rust
Common spots are around the front and rear jacking points, sills, front turrets, boot area, bottoms of doors/wings, front & rear valences, inner front wings. Around the front screen, which is very difficult to fix. Occasionally A pillars. Check the arches, you often see it on the rim but rot right above the wheels is actually relatively rare, and floor panels are usually solid.
Mechanically these are pretty bullet proof. Check for usual stuff like smoke, chatter and mayonnaise walk away if you see it. Don't be put off too much if the car's been abused - a lot of them have been, especially in later life, but do factor in the cost of all the consumables you'll have to put right after you buy it ie exhaust, tyres, brakes, service items.
Dont worry too much if the steering feels a bit vague - there's a rubber in non-PAS cars which always gives out but is a cheap fix. Even a new rack can be had for 50 odd quid if it comes to it.
Despite all the talk on here about fabricating a custom transmission for the 300, they are really quite solid for normal use. Don't be put off by a little clutch judder at the start of your test drive if cold, this is normal. Gear change is unusual on the 300, but just takes getting used to, it doesn't like to be punched, just *snicked* into place... hard to explain, but once you're used to it, it really feels quite satisfying.
The GLT's the best choice in my very humble opinion. GLT specific stuff - electric windows are often slow, and may need reconditioned motors. This is really quite common. Dodgy central locking can usually be sorted with a bit of fiddling only. Many folk complain of rough running on Mk3 GLTS (the one's with wrap-round bumpers), but doesn't seem to be so much of a problem on Mk2's (the ones with indicators on the front wings). This goes away once warm.
Give a shout out on the list if you're going to view and someone local who knows these cars well might be able to tag along in exchange for a pint or two later.
Good luck with the search.